cadman
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Everything posted by cadman
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There is an easy solution for this. After you pour the jigs, take a look at the hook point in relation to the hook eye or weedguard hole. If they are off center, take a pair of pliers and twist the hook bend to center. This doesn't damage the hook. I notice this many times when pouring spinnerbaits. Sometimes the hook lies too low in the mold and once poured they are off center. You can also do this when you finish painting and or finish skirting a jig. I always look at my jigs once they are complete skirted.
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Yep, learned that a long time ago when I started to paint jigs and I painted and baked 100 jigs. After I took them out they looked so beautiful, then I realized I didn't clear the eyelets. So I thought no big deal, I'll just poke them through with a jig eye buster. Wrong, that didn't work because the paint was so hard. Had to work at it for a long time and that job was a money loser for me. Way too many hours to clean out the eyes. Never forgot again.
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Once you heat the jig you must swish the hot jig through the powder paint fairly quickly. It looks like there is way too much powder paint on the jig and if you put it in the oven that way, then it will definitely drip. Also when you dip your jigs through the powder paint make sure your powder paint is fluffy.
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If you want to keep them all together, and you have the room, a Plano 3707 utility box works nicely. For anything longer that doesn't fit flat, roll them around your fingers and then put one end into the coil about 2 times. This will keep them from uncoiling. See link https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Plano_ProLatch_Utility_Box_3707_Open_Compartment/descpage-P370710.html?from=gshop&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxb2XBhDBARIsAOjDZ35wFjFR-H10BKxxXTpdsEkAygWC1KA4XOWUFd3zepF1SY4Ih3FnpB4aAqfaEALw_wcBe attached
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You could also get some gold powder and then sprinkle gold glitter over the entire jig. Also you can get some candy gold powder and sprinkle gold glitter over that as well. I've tried that combo and it looks pretty good. The two colors you will never get to match in powder is gold and silver plating. Like a gold chain or the chrome look of a bumper on a car. That process can be done with Eastwoods products, but then you are electroplating and it is not cost effective. Good Luck
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For skirts, I keep all of my Living image skirts in a Plano 1700 boxes. As far as the rest of my skirts I keep them in a plastic zip lock baggie and then in a big plastic clear shoe box. I label each bag with the color and number so I can easily order more. As far as split rings, blades, swivels, beads and other small items I keep them in plastic drawers which are part of a plastic cabinet. Again keep the number and description with the items so you can order more once you run out.
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I dip the jig in the paint and run a drill bit through the eyelet. It cleans it out super fast. Check drill size on a raw jig, and then go slightly smaller, so the drill bit doesn't get stuck in the eyelet once paint is applied.
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Are you planning on doing this yourself? If so Eastwood might have kit to do this. If you want it professionally done, then there will be a lot charge plus a cost to plate each jig. In the whole scope of things, having them plated by a company is very cost prohibitive, unless you are going to sell thousands.
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Sorry didn't read your thread correctly. I can't answer because I don't have this mold
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If you are referring to not using the Mustad #91768, then yes. The hook that will fit in there is Mustad #32886 round bend or EC L3886. I believe the L32886 is slightly thinner, but not by much to make a difference. I do not believe there were any mods needed to the mold . Maybe the eyelet, but not sure as I am at work.
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My personal Best, White on White. Can you do better?
cadman replied to Howard Capone's topic in Wire Baits
However you are making your spinner baits, apparently they are working, based on the photos you attached. I wouldn't change anything. Fish them the way you make them. If it works don't fix it. -
If you were wire tying and pushing your skirt up against the jighead like Mark mentioned then I can see this happening. If you are using rubber collars, don't push the collar and the skirt up against the head. Back it off if you can. On another note, I wire tie and I like my skirts to flare out by the head. It gives the jig head more bulk. Also with the skirt up against the head, when the jig is pulled or dragged all the skirts strand fold back anyway.
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Well that is really clever and a good way to save some money. I like it great idea.
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You can also try round bend pliers, which would be the most cost effective way to go if you are only making several.
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I keep mine full about an 1" from the top. I thought I read that it was better for the pot to be full than 1/2 or 3/4 full. But don't quote me. Also keeping it full keeps the inner liner from rusting more on the sides. JMO
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Jig Man, I'm not saying you should do this, but for the last 5-6 years I've been buying my lead from Roto-Metals. 99.9% pure and then antimony to make my lead harder. I just have faith in their lead that it comes in clean with no other foreign impurities. So far so good. It cost a little more, but I have not had any major issues since I've done this. On your lead, just try to be more selective if that is even possible. Glad you got it cleaned out.
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I have had mine for about 8 years and have never cleaned it. I probably should but I don't have any problems with it yet.
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Well thanks for the update. Definitely some good info. I would have never thought that Drop-Out would stick to red RTV. I'm just really surprised.
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Well that is a good question, I've never thought of that. My first impulse would be to spray over everything, because I don't think the drop out will stick to the silicone thus leaving it wet. With that said, the wet drop-out will probably be messy but you can probably wipe it off the silicone. However if it were me, I would probably tape off the silicone. I am curious though if what I said above would be true. Can you try a sample and give us feedback? Very much appreciated.
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On smaller jigs 1/4 oz and less I use 2 tabs (44 strands). On larger jigs I use 2-1/2 tabs. There are also many customer requests, which I do what they want. Less strands and the jig sinks faster, more strands and the jig sinks slower. Also more strands blow out more in the water which makes it look bigger. The choice is up to you.
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I've gotten weedguards from two places, fishingskirts.com (Boss) and Kayser Lure. The Boss ones I've gotten about a year ago had a longer hub than the ones I received 6 months ago. I think something in their manufacturing process has changed or could be a bad batch or poor quality control. Either way they still work. Just stick the other end of the weedguard in the hole and trim the fused end.
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By cut, depending on where it is, you can take a small x-acto and cut along any straight lines and then lift it up. Sometimes when you do that, you can pull a small section out.
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I have not found a way to reshape cured silicone. Once it sets, all you can do is cut it or dig it out.
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Bubbles/holes appearing in powder paint during cure
cadman replied to Blowtoad's topic in Wire Baits
I have never seen that either . However, you will get fisheyes if the jig had small divots in there before powder painting. It almost looks like the paint is too hot, or could be a paint issue. You have a PM from me. -
It looks similar to a Poison Tail Jig from the top view.
