Jump to content

cadman

TU Sponsor
  • Content Count

    3,939
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    61

Everything posted by cadman

  1. cadman

    Toyko jigs

    Pretty simple: Hook, strong split ring (2x or 4x), hand loop wire with eye above weight, below weight add a bend so you can change weights if so desired. Made many of them for my customers.
  2. Jake, I will echo, Vodkaman's comments as well. I use Solidworks at home and at work daily. You can create lips, scales, gill plates etc. However like Vodkaman said it is very time consuming. From a simple 3d model in 3 cad hours to 15-20 hours in surfacing cad hours. It can be done in Solidworks with surfacing. I have been using Solidoworks professional for 10 years and there are things on there that I still don't know how to use. It is a big learning curve if you want to make a lure that has scales, gill plates and more. Now once you have that figured out, you have to 3d print the model and there may be things that don't look proportional on the 3d printed model and so it's back to the drawing board. I have already 3d printed some items that I designed. Not lure related, but I need to print items to know how to use my 3d printer. I have a lot to learn on it but I am getting 3d printed items so that is a good start. I am currently printing with PLA which is a thermoplastic filament. I do know that it does not stand up to heat well, however that will not be an issue, as all my jigs and lures will be used in water. Anyway as time develops, I hope to post some of my findings here for others to try. If you want to talk about shop further, PM me your e-mail and we can stay in touch that way and talk more about Solidworks and 3d printing..
  3. You can probably use any material, as long as it is the same thickness. If it is only a shim, a piece of cut copper works well also.
  4. There are a lot of oils and greases on the market for reels. Yamaha marine grease is a really good grease. You can also use super lube, Penn reel grease and Abu silicote grease. Use grease only on gears. For oil I personally I don't like motor oils, but some oil is better than no oil. I would recommend, TSI 321, Abu Oil or rocket fuel. Each has there own purpose. TSI 321 is about universal as you can get. Also remember to use Cal's or Daiwa grease for drag stacks. Do not use other greases for drag stacks, as the grease I mentioned is made for that purpose. This is just my personal opinion.
  5. cadman

    tube jig mold?

    I've never seen a mold for a 1/64 oz tube jig. Yes the jigs are made, however it probably is a custom mold or they are spin cast. If you find one post your results here in case others are looking for them.
  6. I have been using D2T for over 10 years and only a couple times I've had issues where it was tacky, because I did not measure equal amounts. Other than that it always dried clear and glossy. When you mix the two equal amounts together, only mix for about a minute. Than brush it on your jig or bait. Do not over brush. D2T is self leveling, and it will even out. Make sure you are in a warm environment 65 degrees plus when mixing and letting it dry. If you wait too long to brush it on, D2T will start to harden and you will not be able to brush it on a jig or bait. I have never had brush marks. You really only have about 10 minutes of working time from the time you mix it to the time it starts to harden, so don't mix too much. Try it again and see how it goes. Good Luck and Welcome to TU.
  7. For jigs that small Hobby Lobby, Michael's or Jo-Ann Fabrics. They all have flush cutters for about $10.00. Michael's and Jo-Ann Fabrics also have a 40% coupon.
  8. Looks good, once they are skirted and painted up, they will catch fish
  9. cadman

    Mustad 32746BLN

    No problem, the EC's are just as good, you will like them.
  10. cadman

    Mustad 32746BLN

    Jig Man, I believe the comparable hook to that number in EC is L3052M. I inquired about the same question with Shorty's. That is what they told me and that is what I bought. Please inquire from them and let me know here if that is still the case.
  11. Can't help you with your question, but welcome to TU. Lot of knowledgeable guys on this site, smalljaw is one of them.
  12. Smalljaw, Thanks for the info and explanation.
  13. Mark what kind of accelerant is it (name) and how do you apply it.
  14. Loctite Super Glue Gel and Gorilla Super Glue Gel both have cyanoacrylates, like regular super glue. What is happening is the cyanoacrylates is causing the powder as it flashes off and dries. This has always been a problem, You can wash it off if it bothers you, however it does have a tendency to wick up the weedguard and leave a powdery substance there also. Another way to avoid the powdery substance on these jigs, is to have a small fan blowing on the jigs as they dry. The moving air will keep the cyanoacrylates from settling on the jigs and drying. BTW welcome to TU.
  15. Mark, yes I do drink coffee. However it is only in the morning up until about 10 or 11:00 a.m. I think you have my powder paint technique mixed up with something else. I use the paint brush tap method, no spoon involved. You get a small artist brush, dip it in the powder paint and then take the brush full of paint and tap the brush with the paint over a hot jig. That's all there is to it. That should work for you.
  16. Mark, nice looking spinnerbaits. How do you like the textured skirting material? I have used it in the past and I like it very much mixed with the regular skirt material. It fills out a skirt for some bulk. The only thing I noticed is that you cannot over tighten the skirt when you tie it otherwise the textured skirt will separate and break off. I have never seen those triangular blades , let alone fished them. How do they swim in the water? Do they spin or sway from side to side?
  17. Hi Mark, Back in the day before I knew nothing about powder painting, I used to use vinyl paint by CSI (Pro-tec). Anyway, once I moved up to powder paint, didn't know much about it then either. So I would spray all my lead jigs with etching primer. To my surprise with the etching powder the paint was very durable and at that time I would just gloss over the jigs with a heat gun and not use a toaster oven to bake the jigs. As time progressed, I stopped using etching primer, and would just powder paint the jigs and then bake them. So here we are in 2020, and that is the way I do my jigs. No need for etching primer, unless you decide not to bake them and or if you decide to use aerosol cans ,Createx or lacquer paint. The etching primer is a very good base coat for these paints, as it really grips the lead and the paint has a good base coat to adhere to. I still use etching primer occasionally for exotic color I cannot do with powder paint. Anyway, those spinnerbaits look really good. I really like those bluegill colored ones on the top rack. I would like to see a pic of them with the skirt on. Job well done Mark.
  18. All the molds that I have seen are made out of aluminum, so it can withstand the heat of contstant pourings.
  19. Joel, Are you referring to the jig head profile? If so Do-It Molds has a jig head called the Midwest Jig Head that you can use . If you are referring to the hook with barb, those are not stock hooks.
  20. If you look on the bead package, you will see what size hole it has. Ideally a hole that is . 038-.040 will work. An .05 or .06 will work as well, it will just be a little looser. If it's not written on the package, measure it or call the manufacturer and ask them.
  21. I use Sevenstrand and Surflon 90 #
  22. Thanks Blackjack, I am going in to the lure making process blind. I have read a lot of info in the hard baits forum and that has helped me a lot. I am sure there are many things I don't know. Being able to design lures in cad is easier for me than doing it by hand. Once you make 1/2 of a part, you can then mirror it and you have a perfectly symmetrical other 1/2. Also my 3d printer is coming in 2 weeks, so I will have a lot to learn there along with all of winter to practice and screw things up. As far as software goes I use Solidworks. I use it at my job everyday, and we build a lot of solid models along with surfacing, so the cad side will not be a problem. I've been doing cad for over 20 years, so hopefully all of those years will pay off.
  23. Well that is very cool. I have a lot of questions about your lure. Would you be willing to help off line? PM me as I don't want to burden you with a million questions on this forum. If not no hard feelings, I don't want you to think that I want to capitalize on your design and or ideas. I have no problem doing trial and error. That is the only way to learn. On another note, I was going to start this two ways to see what worked better. Design a one piece body with a slot for a lip or a 1 piece molded body with a molded lip similar to what you have. My other design was to make two halves (yes mirrored in my cad software) and again with a slot for a lip or molded in place.
  24. Dave, I know where you are coming from. I was going to use indents in the body only so I can see where the hooks hangers needed to be placed. I was not going to put in thru holes. Thanks for all the help.
  25. Attached is a pic of the round ball jig mold RHB-7-A. The hooks that are in there are Owner 5318 #1 . As you can see by the pic, the #1 hook fits the 1/16 oz cavity fine at the top by the hook eye. However, it bridges the boss at the hook bend. With the hook this way at the bottom, the mold will not close tightly and you will get a lot of flash. The solution to this is to remove that material on both sides of the mold. Now my mold is older, maybe your mold doesn't have this. If that is the case then there is no issue there. On the 1/32 oz head, you have a problem at the hook eye, where if you put the hook eye in the cavity where it is supposed to be, your hook shank will butt against the mold. This will give you incomplete pours, so you have to center the hook shank in the cavity. By doing this, you will see that the hook eye has moved. You will need to remove the mold material here on both halves so the hook eye is flush with both sides of the mold in order to close completely. Now at the bottom you have the same issue as the 1/16 hook has and the mat'l needs to be removed here as well. Hope this helps.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top