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Everything posted by cadman

  1. I use twisted wire for northern pike and musky. "R" bend for everything else.
  2. Depends on the complexity. Pm me a copy of your design, or pm me your phone number and we can talk about it first. I have quite a few questions.
  3. If you have a small piece, send to to fishingskirt.com like Mark noted. They will match it for you and give you the number if they have it.
  4. First of all like everyone mentioned, it is illegal to attach the blade to the hook eye. However there are still a lot of guys doing it. Doesn't make it right so do what you want. Another thing mentioned is hooks. Barlows used to sell hooks with open eye, however I believe that is no longer available. I have tried to open hook eyes and it's a 50/50 shot that it will work. Many times, the hook eye will break or weaken. The problem is that once you open the eye you have to close it, and this will weaken the eye further. As far as a good jig for this, I would use a Snootie jig. It is thin and seems to wobble well. Just make sure your split rings are loose inside the hook eye. Go to then next hook size up if you need to.
  5. I do exactly what Jeff Hahn does. Most if not all the weedguards that are fuzzy on the end come from Kayser Lure. The way I solve this problem is the stick the loose stranded end into the weedguard hole first. This also keeps the strands straight. If it is a bit too tight, take off a couple of strands. Once the weedguards dry, cut off the fused end at the top. The weedguards are a bit longer than need be, so cutting them at the top is no bi deal. This is the way I do it and it seems to work.
  6. I get my wireforms from Lure Part Online.
  7. cadman

    CAD files

    I have a couple of Arky head models, however they are proprietary to my design. The easiest thing to do is find the Arky head style jig you want, buy it and tell the mold maker what features you want and don't want incorporated in your design. They will probably have a minimum design charge, to make your Arky model. Once you finalize the design they will create a program to CNC your mold.
  8. cadman

    CAD files

    What do you mean by cad files? To make a mold of the jig? Are you looking for 3D step files to machine a Arky jig? You are going to need to get a hook in there somehow, so I'm thinking 2 piece. Lot of unanswered questions. Please elaborate more so I can help better.
  9. cadman

    Nickle Plated Spinnerbait Hooks

    How about $80 shipped
  10. I keep some of mine in a cabinet on shelves. Shelves are numbered by column and row. I then can stack about 4 molds per column. Next I have a sheet on one of the shelves that has a list of every mold I have. On this sheet, each mold has the mold model number and name along with a column number and a shelf number. If you are very meticulous on where you take them from and where you put them back, the sheet works fine. The mold will always be found where you put it back last time. I also keep all my mold model numbers on a spread sheet. The ones I use regularly, I also keep on a shelf in a box. The box has the names of the mold I have in there. Also in these boxes, I keep all my football molds together in one box, all my round molds in another and all my spinnerbait molds yet in another. This all works for me. I'll take a pic later tonight.
  11. I have almost a full box (973 pcs) of brand new Eagle Claw Spinnerbait hooks. L608 5/0, Lazer Spinnerbait, 1X-long, Needlepoint, nickel $95.00 shipped to lower 48 states. Cash or cashier's check only.
  12. I have them all including the Erie Dearie that Do-It mold made back in the day. However I am not parting with them yet. E-bay has them on and off occasionally. That's where I got the original Erie Dearie.
  13. Been doing that for years. Hell you can get a box of the long X-mas hangers after x-mas for 99¢.
  14. I know that a Owner #5318 3/0 will fit in all of the cavities of the the Do-It mold MFJ-6-A. I Use them for my customers. The only thing I tell my customers is by doing that, you will make the hook top heavy on the 1/16 oz cavity. If he doesn't care, then it doesn't matter.
  15. If you are concerned about lead seepage down a hook shank, well some times that is a good thing. Because, being a smaller hook, this will let air escape when your cavity fills with lead and not giving you any bad pours from trapped air. I usually just cut off the lead overflow down the hook shank with a pair of dykes. If you want to fill it use high temp silicone (it's red). Here are the steps. 1. Fill the cavity you need on 1/2 of the mold with High temp silicone. 2. Smooth over, so it's flat with the mold half. 3. Put the hook where you want it and press it in place. 4. The hook will displace excess silicon, so now remove excess silicon around hook shank. Make sure you hold the hook in place so it doesn't move. 5. Let thoroughly dry(cure) 6. Next day, slowly take hook out of silicone mold (you may have to slice it out with a razor). Be careful not to pull the silicone out. 7. Once you have the hook out, take a single edge razor blade and shave off (clean) all of the excess silicone on the mold half so it will close tight. 8. Do the same thing on the other mold half so both halve will center the hook in the mold cavity. If you want a permanent fix, you can use JB Weld instead of silicone .
  16. cadman

    Teflon Inserts

    I have had the same Teflon inserts for 6 years. When I use them for paint, I wait till they cool and then I bend them slightly in the middle, and all the paint cracks and falls off. I never scrape mine.
  17. Did you try Lakeland or Hagen's?
  18. Very nice looking bait, glad everything worked out for you. Now you're hooked and you will stimulate the economy by buying more and more and more.
  19. Mark, That can't be true. Because if I was a magician, I would be able to load up the boat with fish and become a professional fisherman. Maybe my "Magical" jigs aren't really that magical.
  20. I have the Hagens wire former. I can tell you this. The Hagen's will form tight wraps up to .041 like the Twistech. However you have to keep pressure on the spindle as you push and turn the handle. I don't know if that is easier or harder then the Twistech as I don't own the other two. I will say when bending .062 wire, it is easy to do with the Hagen's however I find the wraps are a little looser, maybe because of all the effort it takes to bend the thicker diameter wire. Thanks for the comparison.
  21. Ramiro, Well I'm sad to hear. You have been on hear a long time and have contributed help to many here. You have helped me many times in the past as well. I hope all is well. Good luck in your future endeavors. Stop by and say hi to us here. Ted (Cadman)
  22. I checked my 5304 and they fit all the heads in that series. You have a PM.
  23. nwbass, I use both brush jig mold models with the #5304 hooks, without any problems. I just looked at my molds, and none of my hook eye pins have been removed from the molds. With that said, I believe that the hook eye pins are tapered. First of all what hook sizes are you wanting to put in what head sizes(ounces) You can't put a 1/0 #5304 hook in a 1 oz hidden brush jig. You can , but you will have to remove the hook eye pin from the mold, and like smalljaw mentioned you will have a lot of clean-up. So let's start with what hook sizes you want in each mold cavity, and then we can go from there. Attached is a pic of #5304 Owner deep throat hook in a brush jig. So yes it can be done with minimal effort.
  24. Hi Ron, I honestly don't know what the temp I'm pouring at as I haven't checked it in awhile. In my Lee bottom pour, I keep the dial at 7-8. Now I have a mixed lead alloy. So I'm not pouring pure soft lead. Sometimes 80% soft/20% hard and sometimes 70/30. I never pour with my pot maxed out especially when I pour 3 and 4 oz weights. I found with heavier weights, the molds expand especially after continuous non-stop poring, and the pours aren't as consistent. I have never heard of the alloys separating. How hot was your pot?
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