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Everything posted by cadman

  1. Hi Mark, Back in the day before I knew nothing about powder painting, I used to use vinyl paint by CSI (Pro-tec). Anyway, once I moved up to powder paint, didn't know much about it then either. So I would spray all my lead jigs with etching primer. To my surprise with the etching powder the paint was very durable and at that time I would just gloss over the jigs with a heat gun and not use a toaster oven to bake the jigs. As time progressed, I stopped using etching primer, and would just powder paint the jigs and then bake them. So here we are in 2020, and that is the way I do my jigs. No need for etching primer, unless you decide not to bake them and or if you decide to use aerosol cans ,Createx or lacquer paint. The etching primer is a very good base coat for these paints, as it really grips the lead and the paint has a good base coat to adhere to. I still use etching primer occasionally for exotic color I cannot do with powder paint. Anyway, those spinnerbaits look really good. I really like those bluegill colored ones on the top rack. I would like to see a pic of them with the skirt on. Job well done Mark.
  2. All the molds that I have seen are made out of aluminum, so it can withstand the heat of contstant pourings.
  3. Joel, Are you referring to the jig head profile? If so Do-It Molds has a jig head called the Midwest Jig Head that you can use . If you are referring to the hook with barb, those are not stock hooks.
  4. If you look on the bead package, you will see what size hole it has. Ideally a hole that is . 038-.040 will work. An .05 or .06 will work as well, it will just be a little looser. If it's not written on the package, measure it or call the manufacturer and ask them.
  5. I use Sevenstrand and Surflon 90 #
  6. Thanks Blackjack, I am going in to the lure making process blind. I have read a lot of info in the hard baits forum and that has helped me a lot. I am sure there are many things I don't know. Being able to design lures in cad is easier for me than doing it by hand. Once you make 1/2 of a part, you can then mirror it and you have a perfectly symmetrical other 1/2. Also my 3d printer is coming in 2 weeks, so I will have a lot to learn there along with all of winter to practice and screw things up. As far as software goes I use Solidworks. I use it at my job everyday, and we build a lot of solid models along with surfacing, so the cad side will not be a problem. I've been doing cad for over 20 years, so hopefully all of those years will pay off.
  7. Well that is very cool. I have a lot of questions about your lure. Would you be willing to help off line? PM me as I don't want to burden you with a million questions on this forum. If not no hard feelings, I don't want you to think that I want to capitalize on your design and or ideas. I have no problem doing trial and error. That is the only way to learn. On another note, I was going to start this two ways to see what worked better. Design a one piece body with a slot for a lip or a 1 piece molded body with a molded lip similar to what you have. My other design was to make two halves (yes mirrored in my cad software) and again with a slot for a lip or molded in place.
  8. Dave, I know where you are coming from. I was going to use indents in the body only so I can see where the hooks hangers needed to be placed. I was not going to put in thru holes. Thanks for all the help.
  9. Attached is a pic of the round ball jig mold RHB-7-A. The hooks that are in there are Owner 5318 #1 . As you can see by the pic, the #1 hook fits the 1/16 oz cavity fine at the top by the hook eye. However, it bridges the boss at the hook bend. With the hook this way at the bottom, the mold will not close tightly and you will get a lot of flash. The solution to this is to remove that material on both sides of the mold. Now my mold is older, maybe your mold doesn't have this. If that is the case then there is no issue there. On the 1/32 oz head, you have a problem at the hook eye, where if you put the hook eye in the cavity where it is supposed to be, your hook shank will butt against the mold. This will give you incomplete pours, so you have to center the hook shank in the cavity. By doing this, you will see that the hook eye has moved. You will need to remove the mold material here on both halves so the hook eye is flush with both sides of the mold in order to close completely. Now at the bottom you have the same issue as the 1/16 hook has and the mat'l needs to be removed here as well. Hope this helps.
  10. Hi Dave, Happy Holidays, I know you and I will have a lot of discussions regarding this. I got a lot of input regarding infill in the body cavity. 10, 15, 20 % etc. Naturally the more infill the heavier and stronger the bait. I have a lot of learning (trial and error) before I expect to get a good working model. I do have a generic question for you, since you have helped me so much in the past regarding mathematical properties, density and so on. With all of your knowledge in a different field than I, do you think that if I finally make a fully symmetrical prototype, will it be the same and/or similar to the second one, third one and so on? I do know that in the perfect world, if my infill was exactly in the same location all the time ( with the same type of webbing and percentages)and everything was symmetrically placed, I would have a perfect running lure. However, I am sure that this is not the case when an extruder is laying plastic and following a predetermined path. One last question (LOL). I know that I will be able to put indents or pocket holes for hook hangers and ballast weights in the plastic part. Once I figure out where the "correct" position is, do you think that this would be replicated correctly on every lure I make based on the same file. So if I make 30 lures of one shape, size and fill, and I place my hook hangers and ballast weight holes in the same spot on all 30, can I assume that all 30 would run the same way in the water? Dave thanks for your time. You and I will talk for sure. I have always admired your vast engineering knowledge.
  11. Just a take over from me constantly hanging my jigs in an oven to cure my powder paint. Sometimes I have to bridge the lure (spinnerbait heads ) across my rack, because they are too long to hang vertical and put in the oven. But I have done this for years and it is simple and cheap. Since this is X-mas time, go to the store and buy the x-tra long ornament hangers. I found these to work much better than paperclips or wire. Reason being, they are very flexible. You can bend them to any shape at all, wrap them around things over and over, pull and tighten them around objects and they don't break which means you can use them over and over again. I have tried to twist these back and forth to break them and it just doesn't happen. I think this will solve your rubber band problem. If you wait till after the holidays December 26th, you can buy a box of 50 or 100 hangers for $1 or 50 cent. I usually stock up now and buy ten boxes. May be worth a try.
  12. This is for the guys who 3d print lures/crankbaits. I have been wanting to do this for a long time, and I finally got a 3d printer. I have the cad knowledge to do this so that is not the problem. I want to ask anyone who does this about durability and a few other questions to get me started. I am not looking to steal your ideas (I can make my own designs by trial and error), I am looking for some basics. With that said I am doing this so I can learn how to build, design and redesign 3d printed crankbaits. This will be a long road, but I want to see one of my creations come to life. I am also going to pursue this in jig making. Since I have designed some plastic molds for pouring plastics, I want to expand my knowledge. Anyway, If anyone has any hands on suggestions that they would like to share or is willing to help answer some questions. Please PM me or post here. Once I get all of this up and running, I will pass along all of my info that I have learned and post some of my processes. Thank in advance.
  13. This has been going on forever, whether in fishing or any other hobby or business. I make jigs, and have been doing it for 20 years. When I started doing powder paint it was in its infancy. I then started doing multi-color jigs out of powder paint with the tap brush method, while a good friend of mine on here Smalljaw was doing multi-color jigs using powder paint with an air brush. In 2005 we were the only two at that time doing this with powder paint. The TU community exploded asking us questions on how it was done. I was selling jigs off the wall with multi-color patterns. Myself and Smalljaw literally posted our process on how it was done on TU. This is a teaching site. To this day I do not regret people learning from what I brought to the table. Some guys were able to accomplish what I taught, others struggled and figured it out and others just could not get the hang of it. Fast forward to today. I don't sell nearly as many multi-colored jigs as I did back then because everyone is doing it. In all honesty, it doesn't bother me. This is a hobby for me, it always has been and it will always be . I cannot make a living making jigs. With that said, I try to help people when I can, and if they steal my ideas so be it. This is my perception on the whole thing. Someone will steal your idea if they can figure it out and if he doesn't then China will figure it out and steal it. It's just the way it goes. Life is too short to worry about inconsequential things. JMO
  14. Didn't find any Gamis that would fit w/o mold mods. The Owner 5318 1/0 will not fit in any of the two sizes mentioned above. The Owner 5318 #1 hook will fit the 1/16 oz cavity w/o mods. The #1 hook will not fit the 1/32 oz cavity due to the hook eyelet being too long and the hook bend hits the boss in the mold when it closes. The hook eye can be extended in the mold with a file. The boss on the bottom of the mold can also be filed down flush and removed. If you need clarification, let me know. I will attach some pics here.
  15. Owner 5318 hooks will fit no mods. Gami 604 will fit in some cavities. Best way to get a good answer is to let us know what size hook you want to put in which size cavity. This way guys can check to see if the hook will fit
  16. cadman

    weedguard glue

    I have found by using a small fan over the jigs as the weedguards dry, you will not get the white powdery residue, or you can use D2T.
  17. Terry, Like mentioned above. Glue or epoxy your weedguards in after they are baked. I have been doing this for over 15 years and have no issues of weedguards falling out. There are many guys here that pour without a weedguard and then glue in afterwords. If you need more help you can PM me .
  18. Apdriver, Very good info, I have the heavier gate shears I use for the harder lead, and the lighter ones for the softer lead. The Xuron brands gate shears are very good. Worth every penny. One final comment that you made and that is never ever use gate shears for anything else but the lead you cut. You will screw them up. Very good advice.
  19. Pete, I have never had a Dubro wire bender, but a guy at our club had one and he said it worked OK. I don't know what that means, as I can't compare it to my Hagens. However I have to say my Hagens is 15 years old and it is as durable as it was when I bought it. If you decide to go with the purchase, let us know how you like it since you will have both. Maybe do a comparison report on your like and dislikes and post it here.
  20. It looks like you've been pouring for awhile, so I won't ask the basic questions. First of all like Smalljaw mentioned, your lead may be too soft. So adding antimony will help harden the lead which in turn will make it a bit harder to pour, which in turn will make the jigs harder and keep the hooks from possibly moving in the lead. I also use the same lead to antimony ratio that Smalljaw uses, sometimes a little harder. I mix my own, so I don't always get 5% antimony, maybe more, which doesn't hurt at all. On another note you mentioned that you have deeper grooves in the sprues when you take them off with this lead. Are you cutting the sprues off or do you break them off. If you are breaking them off, many times you will break off the sprue and it will leave a divot, which you will never file off because of the hole left. This divot is usually the result of using harder lead, and the lead doesn't crack smooth with the head. If your grooves are from using gate shears, and you still have a hard time filing them, then your lead is still too hard. These are just some observations for you to look into. I'm not there, so I can't fully help. Good Luck and post back when you found your solution.
  21. Chris, Number of Tabs is relevant to what you want. I make spinnerbait for guys with 3 tabs,(66 strands). The spinnerbait looks fuller and has a slower fall. The majority of the spinnerbaits I use have 2 to 2-1/2 tabs. That seems to be common around here. Also you can mix your tabs with the round rubber strands or do a straight all rubber skirt. The all rubber skirt really looks alive in the water. Those come in mostly solid colors and come in fine , medium and heavy. The fine strands are really lively in the water. I mix the fine strands with the silicone tabs, it makes a good balance. Check out the file below it has a mix of jigs with solid rubber and silicone, but you can apply that to spinnerbaits as well. The customer wanted rubber on the bottom and silicone on top. However you can intermingle all the strands and it comes out really nice. My suggestion to you is this. Try different number of tabs and or rubber skirt material, and see what you like and what gets bit. You can also keep your strands long or make them shorter . There are a lot of options for you to customize. The best place I found with the largest selection of silicone tabs is fishingskirts.com. If you need more help post up on the forum.Good luck in building your spinnerbaits. pics.pdf
  22. I have the same chart, only mine was from Stamina before it became LPO. Definitely good info. Thanks for the reminder.
  23. I have a Wagner variable heat heat gun and it stands all by itself. This way I can put it anywhere I want, without any clamping.
  24. You can also look under rubber grommets or silicone grommets. You will find them cheaper that way than buying something that has a name attached to it.
  25. I also have a box of hooks from Mustad from years ago, before the China hooks. They were not the 33786, but 32798. They are slightly different than the current production run. I can tell you the the older Mustad hooks were probably better than the current ones. As far as finish goes, plating colors vary from lot to lot. No need to worry about color. Use them and you will be fine.
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