cadman
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Posts posted by cadman
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Do any of you guys have the Do-It SJU-3-MA Spinnerbait Mold? If you do, what did you guys do to keep the 4/0 or 5/0 hook from spinning off center at the bottom of the mold when you start to pour? The guys that have this mold know what I
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I have used all the colors, with very good success. The key to making the blade dip last longer, is to bake the part in a toaster oven. If you want additional protection, put on an epoxy clear coat.
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can anyone help me on this part of the process in making flippin jigs? I am having great pours now with my molds, my powder paint looks great. my final problem is the weedgaurd.
- should i have a pin or something in the weed gaurd hole during painting?
- what type of glue would anyone recommend for keeping my weedgaurd in the hole. i have had problems with it coming out with conventional super glue.
again, im in the early stages but im starting to get the hang of this any help is appreciated thanks in advance.
Well it's nice to see someone close to my neck of the woods. Welcome aboard. If you need any more help, post your lead questions in the Wire Bait Section. You will get a lot more responses there. Myself and others will be more than glad to help you out
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Thanks Cadman for the tip about buying the swivels direct from Do-it. My bulk supply came in yesterday and I poured a bunch tonight. Seems they work just fine. Funny how the ones from Barlow's have the Do-it name on the package, maybe they are subbing with cheaper ones!
Thanks again
Not a problem, that's what this site is all about, trying to help other guys in need.
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Pete, It depends on how complicated you are going to get, and how many you are going to make. The quickest way is to try the round nose pliers. I don't know if they will work on that gage wire. I assume you are talking about stainless steel wire? Next best bet would be using nails in a piece of wood, but after awhile, I would assume the nails would bend and or loosen. The final solution is what we do at work. Keep in mind that this will outlast you and me both if done right. Get yourself some 1/4" thick alum. plate. Whatever size you need to lay out the whole wire bending pattern. Next get yourself some hardened dowels (find the diameter you need). Drill holes in the alum. plate slightly smaller then the dowels. Locate the holes where you need them. Next take the dowel pins and press them in the alum. plate. If done correctly, they will never move, or pull out. PM me if you need more help
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That's a hard question to answer. First of all what I do is take some paper and a pencil and get some dimensions of the new hook, then get some existing dimensions of the mold cavity. Find out what you need to do, and slowly and carefully lay it out on the mold. You can use a small file, dremel tool or whatever to remove material from the mold. To fill existing cavities not needed, JB weld will work fine. The biggest thing to doing this right is to plan it out, measure not once but twice (more if you're forgetful like me), and take things slow. I stress doing it slow, so you don't do more than you have to, or fix something that you screwed up.
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I have 2 Lee pots. I've never had any problems with them. I also have heard a lot of good things about the RCBS pots. I have never owned one, and I would like to. But at this time the cost is prohibitive. Depending on how much you are going to pour, would make you choose on which one to buy. I will tell you one thing, you can't beat a bottom pouring pot. Once you get it, you will ask youself, why have I not bought this before.
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I've Been Thinking Of Making Spinner Baits This Winter. I Would Like To Have An Idiea Of The Tools I Will Need. When I Start Somthing Like This I Always Buy Stuff That Doesn't Work Or Stuff I Don't Need. I Know You Guys Help Will Put Me On The Right Track.
If you are first starting out, I would suggest buying your spinner bait wire forms. It is a whole lot easier, than trying to bend them, and getting them all the same. The cost is worth it. Once you buy those, now you can concentrate on how to do the rest. Just go slow and take your time.
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Cadman,
I think darkman was talking about the TUJ-6-SLA Tip up jig mold with screw-lock.
Uncleskippy
Sorry about that guys. Where do you guys see the new molds? Are they on Do-It's website?
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I was considering getting the new Tip up jig mold fron Do it molds
but to me the shakey head mold seems to do the same thing ...it just does not "tip up"
any comments would be most helpful....thanks
Is there a new tip-up jig that I don't know about or is it the Do-It's (TUJ-6-A) I have the tip-up jig mentioned above. It is very good for a small presentation. If you want a good jig that stands up, get one of Do-It's stand-up jigs. I have those also, and they work really well.
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Does anyone have any comments on using a fluid bed for powder coating jigs? Is this something that is really needed or can someone new to powder coating and jig making get by without?
Great site and appreciate everyone's help and info!!!!!!!!
When I started powder painting, I did exactly what KYbassman did(does). You do not need a fluid bed, unless you are going to do hundreds of jigs. The fluid bed speeds up the process tremendously. I only use a fluid bed for base coats, and one color applications. When I do my 4-5 multi-color powder painting, it is all done one color at a time, with all my powder colors and a paint brush. As far as I'm concerned, that is the only way, I can control my color and my blending technique. You can do some very impressive things with powder paint, little imagination, and tons and tons of practice. If you want, PM me your e-mail, and I can send you my tutorial, on muti-color powder painting. Also go to www.tjstackle.com Benjamin has a video tutorial on his website which is excellent. With all this info and all the guys here, we'll get you painting like Lenardo Da Vinci in no time.
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PM me.
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Do what Uncle Skippy said, when your done powder painting your bullet weight, take a good clean drill bit slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the bullet weight hole, and push it through the hole. With your thumb and fore finger, rotate the drill bit quickly while pushing it up and down both ends of the bullet weight. The drill bit will act as a reamer, and will remove any lead burrs from the pours along with any paint. It actually is pretty fast. Then blow out the shavings if any, and bake away.
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This is just a wild thought, but when I do my bullet weights in Spike it, I put a piece of wire through the bottom of the bullet weight. On the bottom I have a small loop in the wire, to keep the weight from falling through. Then the wire goes through the bullet weight through the top, and then I bend the wire to form a loop, and hang it on my rack that I put into my toaster oven. What really works well here is christmas tree ornament hook wire. You can bend them really easy many times with out breaking them. The are very flexible. Last year at the end of the season, I bought 10 boxes on clearance for 10 cents a box. When I'm done with them I just throw them away.
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Have any of you ever powder painted bullet weights?
I've painted them with the vinyl paint but would like to start using my fluid be to paint them. Any ideas or suggestions?
Charlie
What color are you looking for, and does it have to be powder. I make bullet jigs for a customer in a multitude of colors, using Spike it Blade Dip. Bake, and then epoxy it with Devcon 2T. Try the Spike It, it comes in 6 or 7 colors. Or you can use Color-Rite by Lake Hawk products, they have abot 20 colors of dyes.
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David,
Try Do-It molds, they sell them buy the 50 pack, but if you buy (5) boxes of the same style and size, they will take off 20%. Who knows maybe with your quantity they may do better. I don't know how competeitve they are going to be to Shorty's though.
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I think it sucks.... those of us who had custom molds made or modified molds to fit what we needed are now hosed. Every tom dick and harry will now start selling shakey heads on Ebay for free thinking they are making so much money. I still cant figure out Do-its sizes thoguh, why the hell no 3/16?
I know it seems unfair and you're upset, and I don't want to start any arguements, but this is America. Do-it only makes molds. You, like me have to paint them, and then make sure our quality sells. Just like the whole scenario with the Chatterbait. They manufactured and produced them, and at that time everybody and their mother was making and selling something similar. I'm not saying you were making them, I'm saying that, that's the way it is. I feel that unless it's your invention, and you have the rights to it, it's there for everybody to do as they please. You may disagree with me and that's your right. Just my opinion, Don't take it personally.
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Why?
I don't want to hi-jack your post George, but I thought that this needed immediate attention. By the way thanks for the compliment George.
LooksLikeSinbad, you don't want to put anthing with lead or powder paint fumes, into anything that you cook your family food in, unless it's an extra oven that is not used for anything else. Just for health reasons, in case the oven gets too hot and melts the lead or burns the paint. You can never be too careful when it comes to handling lead.
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You're right about the walleye fishermen. All the walleye guys I sell jigs to buy the colored ones. Usually one color, and all bright. I can testify to some of this, because I fish for sauger and walley in Wisc, and IL on both rivers. When I jig a pink or ylw chart. jig tipped with a fat head, these fish slam those jigs. I've jigged one rod in one hand with an unpaintd jig and minnow, and another rod in the other hand with a colored jig and minnow. Same identical rods, line and jigs, except for color. The colored one seems to draw more strikes. Call it confidence or whatever, but for walleyes, I do believe color matters.90% of the time I would agree with you, I have how ever had instance where color was the difference. I am very attentive to my presentation, and other factors that are going on when I am fishing and have seen fish be very selective on color before. My jigs are almost always painted, but 90% of the time it probably dont matter, today for instance was fishing big dumb largemouth in pads, throwing watermelon stickbaits and ran out (or so I thought) switched over to pumpkin sticks and couldn't buy a bite when 2 minutes ago the fish were hot. the sticks are poured the exact same have the exact same rof, scent , salt , etc. dug around in my boat and found more watermelon sticks and within 2 casts had another fish on and resumed catching again. The whole time I was in the same area fishing the same depth and the lures have the exact some rate of fall! Was all color! and thats largemouth, tell a walleye fisherman that color don't matter once, they might die from laughter -
I powder paint, it's quick and easy. Also the finish is very durable even without a clearcoat. Most of the guys I do believe in this forum do also. PM sent.
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Javelin,
I'll have to agree with clamboni. I powder paint all my jigs without any problems. I also have jigs with (5) colors of powder that are all blended in. You can't beat powder paint for jigs, unless you want a lot of detail, like clamboni said. Also on powder jigs, you can also put on gill rakers, eyes and stripes. So why would you want to hand paint?
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Vince,
I have both molds the round and the finesse, and don't have problems with either. I bought all my swivels, from Do-It Molds. I have never had a problem with the swivels. I buy them by the thousands. I don't know where Barlow's gets them from so I can't say. If they don't spin before you put them in the mold, call up Barlow's and explain the problem.
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I'm not in the market to start making them, I was just looking for someone who makes them, so I could pass the name along to a friend of mine who wants them made.
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I'll have to agree with all the posts above. However, I do sell a lot of painted jigs versus un-painted. Color definitely sells fisherman. For those that buy my un-painted jigs, they paint and dress them themselves.
Glitter Spinnerbait Blades?
in Wire Baits
Posted
You can use self stick glitter sheets, and cut them to the style and profile you want. They come in at least 50 colors of glitters, chromes and solids. A very easy and simple solution.