cadman
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Posts posted by cadman
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pikeman1,
I use a special tape I buy by the rolls to hold my wire forms in place. It is heat resistant to 600 degrees. It is not flame resistant. I also use this to mask all my voids in powder painting. It works really well. If you want more info on this PM me.
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Anybody out there making musky bucktails, please PM me. Thanks
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Jason,
Look in the Hard Bait Section, and use the search function, there is a ton of information there.
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pikeman,
I am going to have to agree with the two posts above mine. It sounds like you already bought the molds, and the pot, and you already have the lead. I am not trying to discourage you on your venture, but you will have a lot to learn about everything. You have to learn how to pour the lead, that is an art in itself, once you get good at that, you now have to paint the body, buy all the blades, and all the other things that go to make a spinnerbait. One thing for sure take it slow, think things through, and ask a lot of questions. I know everyone sees all the pics posted here, and say, that's exactly what I want to do. Trust me a lot of the guys that post pics here, have been through a lot of trial and error, and have been doing it for quite awhile. If you have any questions, or need help, you will get a lot of help from everyone here, myself included. I can e-mail you a painting tutorial, that I made, which will be here on TU shortly. PM me. Benjamin fromT'js tackle (a TU member) has a painting video tutorial, which is very good, he also sells powder paint. Lastly get as much information as you can about everything. Read all the threads and posts on TU, there is a ton of information for you here. There is a lot to absorb. Just remember never give up. We'll help you become another addicted lure maker................
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clemmy, I replied in Fly tying section. Pm me your e-mail.
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I have this mold. Yes it does wobble back up to upright. As far as a skirt goes, you have to use a small profile skirt. PM me your e-mail, and I can help you out more. I am at work right now, but will get you all the info you need tonight.
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Just my opinion here, but I never remove a bait from the mold by grabbing the hook to remove it. I will always use the sprue to extract the bait from the mold thus eliminating any chance of loosening the hook to wire connection. When you get rolling along and pouring up a batch, I know I tend to not pay close attention to the time between pouring and removing. That whole body must be cool to avoid loosening the hook.
You are absolutely right George. I learned that from a guy when I first started pouring. What I do once the lead is poured into the mold and the sprue forms on top, I open the mold and tap the sprue with long nose pliers. The jig then falls out with the sprue really easy.
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Javelin, you can also use high-temp tape to hold your wireform in place in the mold. Then close your mold and pour away. Take spinnerbait out and put the next one in using the same piece of tape. I get about 30 pours with the little piece of tape.
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Cadman's correct.
Has anyone tried a hot iron for tidying up the cut sprue?
Hey Vodkaman, I'm going to try it with my soldering iron. I will post my results, to see if it's any faster or any better. I am thinking what's going to happen if my soldering iron does get to melt the lead, it will distort the lead profile or features of the jig. With a file I can control how hard to press, what side needs more or less, and with a half round file, I can get into my Arky jigs that hava a concave top. But, this is worth some trial. Good experiment to try. Thanks
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I dont know, do you guys really want tiny particles of lead floating all over your work area? I dont grind, drill, sand or do anything to the lead thats gonna seperate tiny peices into my work area. Cut it with a gate cutters and call it good, fish could give a crap about the look of the head anyway, they have a brain the size of a pea and 1/2 a second to react to the spinner bait coming over there head.
I'll agree with you only on one thing, that fish don't care about the excess lead left from a cut sprue. Also fish don't care about a milion dollar paint job. However, I don't sell jigs to fish. I could not and would not sell any jig to anyone, painted or un-painted that isn't perfect in my eyes. Quality of poured and painted jigs sells customers. I got into making jigs, because of the crappy work that's out there. By the way I cut my sprues with gate shears, and hand file the remains. Don't take this personally, I'm not here to bash your work. Everyone has the right to do what they choose.
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I used to troll in-line planer boards with this method, before I bought line counter reels. Take a plastic bead, and run the tag end of your line through the hole, then run it through again. I've never had this slip on me. The only problem is that you have to make sure the bead goes through your line guides. You can also get smaller beads, and open up the hole. The stop knot they use for slip bobbers is still probably your best bet.
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1. Wear leather gloves if you can. Especially on the hand that holds the mold in case lead pours over the mold or splashes.
2. Don't smoke, eat or munch on snacks when pouring lead. Because your hands are touching lead, and then you grab the cigarette, or the food and put it in your mouth.
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Thankyou Del, that is sensible and encouraging advice. I think that I am technically minded enough to pick up the programming side from a manual, as I did with all the CAD programs over the years.
I think the main thing is the 'hands on' bit, to get a feel for the materials and forces in play. I have to admit that big machines scare me, could be just a healthy respect.
I will also get some time with a programmer to pick his brains. This is all at the planning stage, probably six months or more before I order a machine, but I have made up my mind in this direction now.
A small machine would probably struggle with ally, so after wood, I was thinking of a plastic (no grain to worry about) or my preferred idea, resin cast into a convenient block size. Resin polishes up nicely, will it machine OK?
I plan to cut male mould masters for hard baits and from them cast RTV moulds for production. By machining the male master, sharp edges and corners will be easier to achieve and the master can easily be polished to the required finish. Does this all sound reasonable?
I think that this machining hijack is very relevant, anyone who produces CAD models has to be thinking in this direction.
I know what those machines do, however I know nothing about how to program them or run them. I will tell you one thing, if you have a good cad backround and are meticulous about doing things right (and it seems you already have that based on the info you shared here), you will have no problem getting it up an running. You already have the cad side which you know has to be accurate and precise. With hands on time, on the machine, you will figure it out. If they have a tech support team to guide you through a lot of your questions, that's sometimes is worth its weight in gold, instead of doing trial and error. Let us know if and when you decide to do this venture. If I can be of some help down the road PM me.
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Delw.........We use Metalsoft for nesting all of our pieces on our turrets and laser. It is probably the most used software for this application there is. there are others but majority of sheet metal job shops use this. I actually worked for another company that had a water jet. There are pros and cons for both.The laser can not cut copper or som brass due to the shiny surface. The reflectivity of the material screws up the mirrors in the machine, and the machine gets confused. We tried blue dye chem years ago, it's a pain in the ***. You can buy material with laser paper, but there is still a problem with copper. This is where water jet shines. Both machine can cut thick material. The water jet can cut faster thick material than a laser. You mentioned workers trying to push machines past there limits. Laser guys do this a lot to make faster cuts and get done. The only problem with this is the faster the cut the more jagged it gets. Then the part looks like crap. This doesn't work by us.
Vodkaman........I commend you on your compliment from your customer. I don't think your big headed at all. I also personally feel that I am one of the best cad and programmers our company has. I am not the best in the whole world, as I know there are a lot of guys out there that just can blow me away. On the flip side, I am damn accurate on my work I have to be. No-one checks my work. So if I'm wrong guess what, I get the blame. I have always been very meticulous to anal about my cad work. But that's just me.
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Ok guys, since I am a part of the programming world hence the name (Cadman) I will put my
worth in. Now before any one gets all bent out of shape, I -
Javelin,
PM sent
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Piddler,
I pour the Do-It Ultra-Minnow, and also the banana spinnerbait.
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HookUp, you and me both
Funny you should mention that. People ask me that question all the time. Well if I buy them from you “Will They Chip.” My answer is two fold. #1 No they will never chip if you keep them in you tackle box and don’t use them. #2 Of course they will chip especially if you use them in a rocky area. I fish a lot of rivers, with rocks and snags, and like you said, I lose more jigs than I worry about paint chipping. If I happen to get some that don’t get stolen from the bottom of the depths by the “Great Rock God”, then they usually are pretty beat up. At this point they are so badly chewed up, that painting won’t even help, so they go for re-melt.
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Tony,
Wow, that's strange, that you and I do so many similar things. I had a couple of guys ask me to do a tutorial on how I tie my skirts on, similar to yours. I am still going to do the tutorial, once I find some time.
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Piddler,
Yes plumbers lead is 99.999999999% pure, and it is very soft, however I use it for spinnerbaits, and I 've never had that problem.
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ALLCITY,
I don't use vinyl paint, so I'm going to stick with what I know. I use powder paint, with devcon overcoat. I will agree with all the responses here, but I most strongly agree with Tony Maxwell. I pour and paint with-in a week. Lead will oxidize and not grip paint as well if left longer. You can use a primer on lead to solve this problem. It's called self etching primer. Pour you lead, when all done spray with primer. I don't know if this will work on vinyl paint though I pour all my orders on an as needed basis. I don't stock pile for that reason. Yes, they all chip, I don't care who makes them,MPO.
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tmarcucci, as I do the same thing, I would like to talk to you about some things off line..........PM me if you are interested.
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Sagacious, hit it right on the head. I know a lot of guys who pour on here will tell you to think safety first. I am a big proponent of that. Lead is very hot, and if you get burned (god forbid) it all isn't worth it. Old lead pipe may have water in it, and it will spatter, if it is dropped in hot lead. I've mentioned in past posts, on what I wear when I pour. This may be a little extreme, but here it goes. Shoes, socks, long pants (jeans), Flannel shirt, with long sleeves that you can button at the cuff. Safety glasses, clear face shield, and a base ball cap. Leather glove on my left hand, the one that holds the mold, and vinyl glove on my right hand. My biggest investment, was a clear face shield. I dearly protect my eyes. If I damage those, my whole life would be changed. Lastly, a small fan to disperse any fumes from the hot pot.
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I'll have to agree with rr316, I have never had problems with Stamina either.
TJK if that is vinyl paint in the kit, and you don't want to use vinyl paint, why don't you buy the components separately. Then you can use the Pro-tech powder if you want, and buy what ever else you want to customize the spinnerbaits the way you want them. Also Do-It sell this kit, it is their kit after all, if you look on the picture. Pm me, I may have some other useful info for you.
Painted vs. Unpainted Jig Heads?
in Wire Baits
Posted
I'll have to agree with all the posts above. However, I do sell a lot of painted jigs versus un-painted. Color definitely sells fisherman. For those that buy my un-painted jigs, they paint and dress them themselves.