cadman

You are right about that, my wife is my tournament fishing partner, along with all the other times I fish, and you know what I have no resistance buying anything regarding fishing. I just boat a new boat this year, never had a problem with her, (that is my wife I'm talking about) oh yeah the boat too. Yes it would be nice to see some feminine creativity around here. I would have my wife post some stuff, but everythink she likes is pink. Wayyyyyyy tooooooo girly for me.........JMO

Wow you're right there, there is no savings doing it that way. You would have to sell thousands of flies to recoup your cost. I'm with everyone on this, just buy them. Unless you want to learn how to pour.

Aren't you worried about burrs from the drill bit when you're using the drill press in the hook eye?

You're absolutely right George, same concept different tool.

Kelly, it has worked for me over and over. Plus it's easy to work with. I was just looking for some new ideas. Thanks for all the input guys.

When the jig is still hot, push the rounded end of a drill bit in the hook eye all the way through from one end to the other and pull it out. Takes out paint immediately, and works every time.

Spoke to some people at work, and we use it here. I was told that all parts have to be cleaned or degreased, before paint is applied. Is that true? If it is, than it's another step in my process. May not be worth it then, my tape idea seems to be a cheap fix. Thanx for the info guys. Maybe some other members will have other solutions.

You have no lead stick to the top at all? That's very interesting. Where do you buy this stuff at?

How many of you guys who pour, have poured the last cavity next to the mold hinge, and had lead overflow into the hinge area. So, my next question to everyone is, what do you do to get the lead out of the hinge area. Well I finally found a solution that works for me 100% all the time, no questions asked. I use cloth glass tape for some of my painting processes. So I took this tape, cut a small piece, and stuck it on the mold half that opens, just in front of the last cavity, and over the hinge and pivot. Every time I pour now, if the lead overflows, it goes on top of the tape and falls off. Then when I open the two mold halves to take out my newly poured jigs, the tape still sticks to the original half I put it on. Take the jigs out, close the mold and you

Does anyone have any of these hooks in the 3/0 and the 4/0 size, I need to try something out. I only need 3 of each. Please PM me. Thanks

I'll definitely agree with the starflash skirts. I've been using them for the longest time, excellent quality. For a softer skirt, I use hydrosilk. Maybe they are pricey, but definitely both of them are a darn good skirt. I've never had any complaints. You can also buy these in bulk.

Thanks for the insight guys, very much appreciated.

You can use self stick glitter sheets, and cut them to the style and profile you want. They come in at least 50 colors of glitters, chromes and solids. A very easy and simple solution.

Do any of you guys have the Do-It SJU-3-MA Spinnerbait Mold? If you do, what did you guys do to keep the 4/0 or 5/0 hook from spinning off center at the bottom of the mold when you start to pour? The guys that have this mold know what I

I have used all the colors, with very good success. The key to making the blade dip last longer, is to bake the part in a toaster oven. If you want additional protection, put on an epoxy clear coat.

Well it's nice to see someone close to my neck of the woods. Welcome aboard. If you need any more help, post your lead questions in the Wire Bait Section. You will get a lot more responses there. Myself and others will be more than glad to help you out

Not a problem, that's what this site is all about, trying to help other guys in need.

Pete, It depends on how complicated you are going to get, and how many you are going to make. The quickest way is to try the round nose pliers. I don't know if they will work on that gage wire. I assume you are talking about stainless steel wire? Next best bet would be using nails in a piece of wood, but after awhile, I would assume the nails would bend and or loosen. The final solution is what we do at work. Keep in mind that this will outlast you and me both if done right. Get yourself some 1/4" thick alum. plate. Whatever size you need to lay out the whole wire bending pattern. Next get yourself some hardened dowels (find the diameter you need). Drill holes in the alum. plate slightly smaller then the dowels. Locate the holes where you need them. Next take the dowel pins and press them in the alum. plate. If done correctly, they will never move, or pull out. PM me if you need more help

That's a hard question to answer. First of all what I do is take some paper and a pencil and get some dimensions of the new hook, then get some existing dimensions of the mold cavity. Find out what you need to do, and slowly and carefully lay it out on the mold. You can use a small file, dremel tool or whatever to remove material from the mold. To fill existing cavities not needed, JB weld will work fine. The biggest thing to doing this right is to plan it out, measure not once but twice (more if you're forgetful like me), and take things slow. I stress doing it slow, so you don't do more than you have to, or fix something that you screwed up.

I have 2 Lee pots. I've never had any problems with them. I also have heard a lot of good things about the RCBS pots. I have never owned one, and I would like to. But at this time the cost is prohibitive. Depending on how much you are going to pour, would make you choose on which one to buy. I will tell you one thing, you can't beat a bottom pouring pot. Once you get it, you will ask youself, why have I not bought this before.

If you are first starting out, I would suggest buying your spinner bait wire forms. It is a whole lot easier, than trying to bend them, and getting them all the same. The cost is worth it. Once you buy those, now you can concentrate on how to do the rest. Just go slow and take your time.

Sorry about that guys. Where do you guys see the new molds? Are they on Do-It's website?

Is there a new tip-up jig that I don't know about or is it the Do-It's (TUJ-6-A) I have the tip-up jig mentioned above. It is very good for a small presentation. If you want a good jig that stands up, get one of Do-It's stand-up jigs. I have those also, and they work really well.

When I started powder painting, I did exactly what KYbassman did(does). You do not need a fluid bed, unless you are going to do hundreds of jigs. The fluid bed speeds up the process tremendously. I only use a fluid bed for base coats, and one color applications. When I do my 4-5 multi-color powder painting, it is all done one color at a time, with all my powder colors and a paint brush. As far as I'm concerned, that is the only way, I can control my color and my blending technique. You can do some very impressive things with powder paint, little imagination, and tons and tons of practice. If you want, PM me your e-mail, and I can send you my tutorial, on muti-color powder painting. Also go to www.tjstackle.com Benjamin has a video tutorial on his website which is excellent. With all this info and all the guys here, we'll get you painting like Lenardo Da Vinci in no time.

PM me.