cadman

Is there a new tip-up jig that I don't know about or is it the Do-It's (TUJ-6-A) I have the tip-up jig mentioned above. It is very good for a small presentation. If you want a good jig that stands up, get one of Do-It's stand-up jigs. I have those also, and they work really well.

When I started powder painting, I did exactly what KYbassman did(does). You do not need a fluid bed, unless you are going to do hundreds of jigs. The fluid bed speeds up the process tremendously. I only use a fluid bed for base coats, and one color applications. When I do my 4-5 multi-color powder painting, it is all done one color at a time, with all my powder colors and a paint brush. As far as I'm concerned, that is the only way, I can control my color and my blending technique. You can do some very impressive things with powder paint, little imagination, and tons and tons of practice. If you want, PM me your e-mail, and I can send you my tutorial, on muti-color powder painting. Also go to www.tjstackle.com Benjamin has a video tutorial on his website which is excellent. With all this info and all the guys here, we'll get you painting like Lenardo Da Vinci in no time.

PM me.

Do what Uncle Skippy said, when your done powder painting your bullet weight, take a good clean drill bit slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the bullet weight hole, and push it through the hole. With your thumb and fore finger, rotate the drill bit quickly while pushing it up and down both ends of the bullet weight. The drill bit will act as a reamer, and will remove any lead burrs from the pours along with any paint. It actually is pretty fast. Then blow out the shavings if any, and bake away.

This is just a wild thought, but when I do my bullet weights in Spike it, I put a piece of wire through the bottom of the bullet weight. On the bottom I have a small loop in the wire, to keep the weight from falling through. Then the wire goes through the bullet weight through the top, and then I bend the wire to form a loop, and hang it on my rack that I put into my toaster oven. What really works well here is christmas tree ornament hook wire. You can bend them really easy many times with out breaking them. The are very flexible. Last year at the end of the season, I bought 10 boxes on clearance for 10 cents a box. When I'm done with them I just throw them away.

What color are you looking for, and does it have to be powder. I make bullet jigs for a customer in a multitude of colors, using Spike it Blade Dip. Bake, and then epoxy it with Devcon 2T. Try the Spike It, it comes in 6 or 7 colors. Or you can use Color-Rite by Lake Hawk products, they have abot 20 colors of dyes.

David, Try Do-It molds, they sell them buy the 50 pack, but if you buy (5) boxes of the same style and size, they will take off 20%. Who knows maybe with your quantity they may do better. I don't know how competeitve they are going to be to Shorty's though.

I know it seems unfair and you're upset, and I don't want to start any arguements, but this is America. Do-it only makes molds. You, like me have to paint them, and then make sure our quality sells. Just like the whole scenario with the Chatterbait. They manufactured and produced them, and at that time everybody and their mother was making and selling something similar. I'm not saying you were making them, I'm saying that, that's the way it is. I feel that unless it's your invention, and you have the rights to it, it's there for everybody to do as they please. You may disagree with me and that's your right. Just my opinion, Don't take it personally.

I don't want to hi-jack your post George, but I thought that this needed immediate attention. By the way thanks for the compliment George. LooksLikeSinbad, you don't want to put anthing with lead or powder paint fumes, into anything that you cook your family food in, unless it's an extra oven that is not used for anything else. Just for health reasons, in case the oven gets too hot and melts the lead or burns the paint. You can never be too careful when it comes to handling lead.

You're right about the walleye fishermen. All the walleye guys I sell jigs to buy the colored ones. Usually one color, and all bright. I can testify to some of this, because I fish for sauger and walley in Wisc, and IL on both rivers. When I jig a pink or ylw chart. jig tipped with a fat head, these fish slam those jigs. I've jigged one rod in one hand with an unpaintd jig and minnow, and another rod in the other hand with a colored jig and minnow. Same identical rods, line and jigs, except for color. The colored one seems to draw more strikes. Call it confidence or whatever, but for walleyes, I do believe color matters.

I powder paint, it's quick and easy. Also the finish is very durable even without a clearcoat. Most of the guys I do believe in this forum do also. PM sent.

Javelin, I'll have to agree with clamboni. I powder paint all my jigs without any problems. I also have jigs with (5) colors of powder that are all blended in. You can't beat powder paint for jigs, unless you want a lot of detail, like clamboni said. Also on powder jigs, you can also put on gill rakers, eyes and stripes. So why would you want to hand paint?

Vince, I have both molds the round and the finesse, and don't have problems with either. I bought all my swivels, from Do-It Molds. I have never had a problem with the swivels. I buy them by the thousands. I don't know where Barlow's gets them from so I can't say. If they don't spin before you put them in the mold, call up Barlow's and explain the problem.

I'm not in the market to start making them, I was just looking for someone who makes them, so I could pass the name along to a friend of mine who wants them made.

I'll have to agree with all the posts above. However, I do sell a lot of painted jigs versus un-painted. Color definitely sells fisherman. For those that buy my un-painted jigs, they paint and dress them themselves.

pikeman1, I use a special tape I buy by the rolls to hold my wire forms in place. It is heat resistant to 600 degrees. It is not flame resistant. I also use this to mask all my voids in powder painting. It works really well. If you want more info on this PM me.

Anybody out there making musky bucktails, please PM me. Thanks

Jason, Look in the Hard Bait Section, and use the search function, there is a ton of information there.

pikeman, I am going to have to agree with the two posts above mine. It sounds like you already bought the molds, and the pot, and you already have the lead. I am not trying to discourage you on your venture, but you will have a lot to learn about everything. You have to learn how to pour the lead, that is an art in itself, once you get good at that, you now have to paint the body, buy all the blades, and all the other things that go to make a spinnerbait. One thing for sure take it slow, think things through, and ask a lot of questions. I know everyone sees all the pics posted here, and say, that's exactly what I want to do. Trust me a lot of the guys that post pics here, have been through a lot of trial and error, and have been doing it for quite awhile. If you have any questions, or need help, you will get a lot of help from everyone here, myself included. I can e-mail you a painting tutorial, that I made, which will be here on TU shortly. PM me. Benjamin fromT'js tackle (a TU member) has a painting video tutorial, which is very good, he also sells powder paint. Lastly get as much information as you can about everything. Read all the threads and posts on TU, there is a ton of information for you here. There is a lot to absorb. Just remember never give up. We'll help you become another addicted lure maker................

clemmy, I replied in Fly tying section. Pm me your e-mail.

I have this mold. Yes it does wobble back up to upright. As far as a skirt goes, you have to use a small profile skirt. PM me your e-mail, and I can help you out more. I am at work right now, but will get you all the info you need tonight.

You are absolutely right George. I learned that from a guy when I first started pouring. What I do once the lead is poured into the mold and the sprue forms on top, I open the mold and tap the sprue with long nose pliers. The jig then falls out with the sprue really easy.

Javelin, you can also use high-temp tape to hold your wireform in place in the mold. Then close your mold and pour away. Take spinnerbait out and put the next one in using the same piece of tape. I get about 30 pours with the little piece of tape.

Hey Vodkaman, I'm going to try it with my soldering iron. I will post my results, to see if it's any faster or any better. I am thinking what's going to happen if my soldering iron does get to melt the lead, it will distort the lead profile or features of the jig. With a file I can control how hard to press, what side needs more or less, and with a half round file, I can get into my Arky jigs that hava a concave top. But, this is worth some trial. Good experiment to try. Thanks

I'll agree with you only on one thing, that fish don't care about the excess lead left from a cut sprue. Also fish don't care about a milion dollar paint job. However, I don't sell jigs to fish. I could not and would not sell any jig to anyone, painted or un-painted that isn't perfect in my eyes. Quality of poured and painted jigs sells customers. I got into making jigs, because of the crappy work that's out there. By the way I cut my sprues with gate shears, and hand file the remains. Don't take this personally, I'm not here to bash your work. Everyone has the right to do what they choose.