cadman

I used to troll in-line planer boards with this method, before I bought line counter reels. Take a plastic bead, and run the tag end of your line through the hole, then run it through again. I've never had this slip on me. The only problem is that you have to make sure the bead goes through your line guides. You can also get smaller beads, and open up the hole. The stop knot they use for slip bobbers is still probably your best bet.

1. Wear leather gloves if you can. Especially on the hand that holds the mold in case lead pours over the mold or splashes. 2. Don't smoke, eat or munch on snacks when pouring lead. Because your hands are touching lead, and then you grab the cigarette, or the food and put it in your mouth.

I know what those machines do, however I know nothing about how to program them or run them. I will tell you one thing, if you have a good cad backround and are meticulous about doing things right (and it seems you already have that based on the info you shared here), you will have no problem getting it up an running. You already have the cad side which you know has to be accurate and precise. With hands on time, on the machine, you will figure it out. If they have a tech support team to guide you through a lot of your questions, that's sometimes is worth its weight in gold, instead of doing trial and error. Let us know if and when you decide to do this venture. If I can be of some help down the road PM me.

Delw.........We use Metalsoft for nesting all of our pieces on our turrets and laser. It is probably the most used software for this application there is. there are others but majority of sheet metal job shops use this. I actually worked for another company that had a water jet. There are pros and cons for both.The laser can not cut copper or som brass due to the shiny surface. The reflectivity of the material screws up the mirrors in the machine, and the machine gets confused. We tried blue dye chem years ago, it's a pain in the ***. You can buy material with laser paper, but there is still a problem with copper. This is where water jet shines. Both machine can cut thick material. The water jet can cut faster thick material than a laser. You mentioned workers trying to push machines past there limits. Laser guys do this a lot to make faster cuts and get done. The only problem with this is the faster the cut the more jagged it gets. Then the part looks like crap. This doesn't work by us. Vodkaman........I commend you on your compliment from your customer. I don't think your big headed at all. I also personally feel that I am one of the best cad and programmers our company has. I am not the best in the whole world, as I know there are a lot of guys out there that just can blow me away. On the flip side, I am damn accurate on my work I have to be. No-one checks my work. So if I'm wrong guess what, I get the blame. I have always been very meticulous to anal about my cad work. But that's just me.

Ok guys, since I am a part of the programming world hence the name (Cadman) I will put my worth in. Now before any one gets all bent out of shape, I

Javelin, PM sent

Piddler, I pour the Do-It Ultra-Minnow, and also the banana spinnerbait.

HookUp, you and me both Funny you should mention that. People ask me that question all the time. Well if I buy them from you “Will They Chip.” My answer is two fold. #1 No they will never chip if you keep them in you tackle box and don’t use them. #2 Of course they will chip especially if you use them in a rocky area. I fish a lot of rivers, with rocks and snags, and like you said, I lose more jigs than I worry about paint chipping. If I happen to get some that don’t get stolen from the bottom of the depths by the “Great Rock God”, then they usually are pretty beat up. At this point they are so badly chewed up, that painting won’t even help, so they go for re-melt.

Tony, Wow, that's strange, that you and I do so many similar things. I had a couple of guys ask me to do a tutorial on how I tie my skirts on, similar to yours. I am still going to do the tutorial, once I find some time.

Piddler, Yes plumbers lead is 99.999999999% pure, and it is very soft, however I use it for spinnerbaits, and I 've never had that problem.

ALLCITY, I don't use vinyl paint, so I'm going to stick with what I know. I use powder paint, with devcon overcoat. I will agree with all the responses here, but I most strongly agree with Tony Maxwell. I pour and paint with-in a week. Lead will oxidize and not grip paint as well if left longer. You can use a primer on lead to solve this problem. It's called self etching primer. Pour you lead, when all done spray with primer. I don't know if this will work on vinyl paint though I pour all my orders on an as needed basis. I don't stock pile for that reason. Yes, they all chip, I don't care who makes them,MPO.

tmarcucci, as I do the same thing, I would like to talk to you about some things off line..........PM me if you are interested.

Sagacious, hit it right on the head. I know a lot of guys who pour on here will tell you to think safety first. I am a big proponent of that. Lead is very hot, and if you get burned (god forbid) it all isn't worth it. Old lead pipe may have water in it, and it will spatter, if it is dropped in hot lead. I've mentioned in past posts, on what I wear when I pour. This may be a little extreme, but here it goes. Shoes, socks, long pants (jeans), Flannel shirt, with long sleeves that you can button at the cuff. Safety glasses, clear face shield, and a base ball cap. Leather glove on my left hand, the one that holds the mold, and vinyl glove on my right hand. My biggest investment, was a clear face shield. I dearly protect my eyes. If I damage those, my whole life would be changed. Lastly, a small fan to disperse any fumes from the hot pot.

I'll have to agree with rr316, I have never had problems with Stamina either. TJK if that is vinyl paint in the kit, and you don't want to use vinyl paint, why don't you buy the components separately. Then you can use the Pro-tech powder if you want, and buy what ever else you want to customize the spinnerbaits the way you want them. Also Do-It sell this kit, it is their kit after all, if you look on the picture. Pm me, I may have some other useful info for you.

Although I've never used a kit, I know that all the stuff I see that Do-It mold company puts out is top quality. Look on there web site www.do-itmolds.com. If that's what you want, then that is a good start. You are only limited by your imagination. I would believe that the paint is vinyl, and not powder, since it's a kit. The only drawback to vinyl paint is the strong smell. Use in a well ventilated area. Good luck, and let us know how it worked out.

I do something similar to BTB. I wrap the thread around itself, however I start at the bottom of the jig collar and wrap up. With one layer of thread on the collar, I then put on my skirts (I buy banded skirts) over the thread with the rubber collar, adjust my length of skirt usually 1/3 on the shaft of the jig, I then start wrapping the thread down over the skirt. After about three to 5 wraps, I slide the rubber skirt collar down the hook shaft and leave it there. This keeps all the skirt strands still in place. I put all the remainder of the thread wraps on, make a couple of half hitches, and seal the thread with head cement, epoxy, clear nail polish, or super glue. I hang and wait for it to dry, then take off the rubber skirt collar. Now you're done. It will never come off, unless you cut it off.

PM. sent

Jigmaster, You're dead on. My dentist still uses the bitewing shields, and it is excellent for pouring. The lead is very soft, best of all, yes, it is free.

I pay about a $1/lb for pure lead. I also got 500 lbs of printers lead for about .25/lb. The printers lead is on the hard side, so I mix it with my pure stuff. Actually $1/lb is not really that bad of a price, I've been paying close to that for about 2 years now.

Javelin, PM me with what quantities and style. I may be able to help you.

stream stalker. I was going to bet it was a Strflash skirt, and you confirmed it. I will agree with you that I also believe that they are the best round silicone skirt on the market IMHO. As Starflash are my first choice, on the flip side my second choice are Hydrosilk skirts. Starflash for conditions that warrant a slightly stiffer skirt, and Hydrosilk skirts for there softness and flare. Both skirts are round strands, and very durable. If you want some phenominal prices on starflash skirts, look up Dungeonhawk a member on TU. He has the best prices anywhere on the web, including Stamina, Barlows, Janns and Bass Pro Shops. Tell him Cadman sent you. He will do right by you......By the way nice looking jig. I noticed that you tie your skirts on. Is that to hold the wire weedguard, or is that your standard practice?

I believe, if you want stainless steel you will have to make them yourself. I buy the copper ones, and they seem to do fine. There is a post in the Wire Bait Forum on how to make them yourself.

I'll agree to all of the statements above if you are doing dark colors. If you are goint to use flo-orange, flo-pink, flo-chart. etc, I strongly suggest you use a white base coat, and then the, flourescent colors. The white brings out the brilliance of those colors. Also you won't have to dip it so many times. If you don't believe me try it for yourself........Ted

Buckslayer Are you referring to powders only in fluid beds, or just the usual application. I use 9-10 brands of manufacturers, and never had a problem so far. Please PM me, I am curious about what manufacturers you have had problems with........Thanks

I have a question for you guys that pour lead with the weedguard in place. Do you do this to save time of not glueing it in afterwords? I don't want to sound arrogant, because that's not my intent. But I have read posts in the past of the same or similar problem. My question is this. If it is a continuous problem, why do some guys still do this. My other question is this. How does your paint job come out after you paint your jigs with the weed guards in place and bake them????? I'm very curious to see some finished jigs from the guys that do this. Maybe I'm missing the boat here. Again don't take this as a knock on anybody that does this process, I don't want to start an arguement here. I have too much respect for the members at TU.