cadman

Which mold are you referring to. If it is supposed to use a 30 degree hook, than a Mustad 32886 might work as well.

If you got them at a hobby store, then they are more likely to be used for jewelry making, and are probably pretty weak.

Hi and welcome to TU. There are two ways to take care of this problem. Both of these ways are somewhat permanent, so if you want to remove it for later use, I suggest that you do not do this. #1. You can mix some JB Weld and fill in the writing, then before it hardens, lightly wipe off the excess that overfilled the letters. If you want a perfectly smooth surface, you can lightly sand the JB Weld. #2. You can get some red high temp RTV silicone and fill in the letters. Then lightly wipe of excess. If these are shallow letter, this may not hold real well. Make sure you clean the inside of the mold really well so the JB Weld and or Silicone will stick to the mold Below are some pics of what I'm talking about. There are other brands as well.

Jig Man, This is what I have tried and my thoughts on it. I have been using Mason brand nylon coverd stainless steel leader material. It's called Nylostrand. It is similar to Surflon. I switched to Nylostrand because at one point I was using up 300 foot spools every month and the Nylostrand was cheaper with the same results. Now to answer your question. I've put in a piece of stainless steel wire into the mix of weedguard strand to make it stiffer. As much as this seemed to work, you would not believe how many times I got stabbed with the solid wire on the water. So I abandoned the solid wire idea. What I have done was to eliminate all weedguards and go with a 90 lb piece of Nylostrand. After trying that, I didn't get the results I wanted and went with 150 lb Nylostrand which seemed to work fine for me. This was when I used to fish rivers. Now here are the thicknesses of the Nylostrand. 60 lb test-----.032 90 lb test-----.036 150 lb test----.041 210 lb test----.051 I have the 60 and the 90 lb Nylostrand at home and there doesn't seem to be much of a difference in stiffness. When you get to the higher lb. test it does get stiffer. Another thing you might try is putting two pieces of 60 or 90 l together in the weedguard hole. If you lightly heat them they will fuse to themselves making it look like one piece. I still think that you should go up in size with just one piece of Surflon or Nylostrand. I'm just brainstorming here for what it's worth.

LPO, used to have them. I bought them about 10 + years ago. Don't know if they still have the stronger jump rings.

I've been using them for awhile and I have no issues with them. I do have the stiffer jump rings and once they are closed they don't open up. My blades have never fallen off. Maybe the jump rings that are currently available are not as strong as the older ones. I don't know.

I have not made any puff ball jig with it yet. Been too busy cleaning and repairing reels.

Thanks for the great info. Do you by chance turn the can upside down to clear the air nozzle, or do you spray and just put away till next time?

I was thinking KBS spray can as well. Out of curiosity, is that spray can reusable or does it clog if you leave some in it. I want to use it to spray some reels I painted. Just looking for some good solid info.

Dayne, glad I sent the correct ones. You never know I could be losing it and send something else. Happy Holidays to you and your family.

Dayne, Didn't I send you the correct ones? They should look like the one below.

I've been using jump rings for years. A lot easier to put on then split rings especially the small ones. I also use them for underspins. When you have cheaper blades, like on an underspin, no point and using split rings. If you lose a blade, they usually are not that expensive when they are that small. However if you buy really high quality blades well then maybe split rings should be used. But why invest in high quality blades in horse head jigs. JMO

You have a pm

I personally like the football jig better

That looks good. Yes it is tedious and cumbersome, however it does work. Luckily you don't have to make 500 of them. LOL

If the beads have holes, put some thread through the holes and tie it suspended on the hook shank if you can. This is not the most effective way to do this, but for a couple of dozen jigs it shouldn't be too bad. You can also use very thin wire like from a small transformer. If the beads do not have holes, you can suspend them with a little clay wrapped around the hook shank.

Oh I see, I thought you wanted to flatten the sides. What I have done in the past to lessen the weight, is put in hollow metal beads, or small, pieces on aluminum rod in the mold cavity. This will take up space in your cavity and will not melt when you pour your lead. The bigger the piece you put in the more space you will take up. It might be worth a try I have not seen a 7/16 oz football mold either.

If you are doing a flat face on both sides, you can put the jig in a vice and slowly close the vice. It is crude but it does work. Hopefully, you don't have a lot of them to do as this is time consuming.

Jig Man, I don't know exactly but my guess would be one of these three: Eagle Claw Style 500BP-Lil Nasty Mustad 32500 BN Jig Hook Victory 11149 BN Jig Hook I don't have any of the Jewel Pee Wee Jigs on hand to check to see which hook it is. It may also be a custom made hook made exclusively for them as well.

Unfortunately I agree. I have been a die hard LPO purchaser since the Stamina days. They have always had a large variety of products along with really good prices. However, I have noticed that many of their products I used to get, are no longer available, and their pricing has gone up substantially, along with their shipping. I have seen this happen in the last 3 or 4 years prior to Covid. It seems things have changed since they were bought out or merged with a couple of other companies. Sadly, I do not buy as many items from them as I used to. There are many other places to buy product. I am not overpaying for shipping or paying any extra handling fees.

For spinnerbait spacers between blades and up and down the blade arm, you can use metal hollow beads, plastic beads or cylindrical metal spacers. See link below https://barlowstackle.com/search-results/?q=metal+spacers I use Devcon 2 Ton epoxy for all my weedguards. It takes a little longer to dry, but I've never had one come out. I roll the loose end of the weedguard strands into the epoxy and then stick the weedguard into the jig head hole with the epoxy and when the weedguards are cured, I cut the fused end off at the top. There are many ways to glue in weedguards. I just prefer epoxy.

I have that textured skirt color and I bought it from fishingskirts.com

Well I'm not as perfect as you. Like I said, you apparently read it correctly and after all of your comments you still didn't reply to the OP's original thread. That's real helpful as well. If you are going to criticize, why don't you give us your input.

Sorry misread the original thread. I put it on the hook side.

Well if you read the topic correctly why didn't you reply? It's easy to criticize and then make an empty post.