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cadman

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Everything posted by cadman

  1. cadman

    SOFT CLEAN LEAD

    You have a Pm.
  2. cadman

    SOFT CLEAN LEAD

    Are you selling these?
  3. Welcome to TU. There are several ways to add multiple colors. There is the brush tap method and the other is using an air brush. I do the brush tap method. It is pretty simple. I put a base coat of powder with a fluid bed. Then I take all my other colors and apply them on by dipping an artist brush into the powder paint and then tapping it onto a hot jig. It takes some practice to get what you want, but it works for me. I also have a basic tutorial if you want. PM me your e-mail and I will send it to you. Smalljaw, was the one that started airbrushing powder on TU way back in the day. He will be on here to give you some pointers if that is the way you want to go. 2d or 3d eyes. I use WTP (Witch Tape Products) eyes exclusively. They have the best adhesive on them to hold the eye in place. Most of the guys here use some kid of clear epoxy or nail polish to keep the eyes from coming off once they are applied. You will get a lot of info here from others.
  4. I have #8, #6 an #4. When I checked, the#10 and #12 are really small
  5. Yes, vinegar will work. It won't make it shiny, but it will clean the lead so it accepts paint.
  6. Mustad #32786 hooks will fit in that mold if you are looking for black nickle hooks. Eagle Claw has a comparable hook to Mustad for a lesser cost.
  7. I might have several thousand of each of these I will have to check and let you know.
  8. Frank, Here is my thought on this. If you have time and you are looking for something to do, and you can strip the jigs down to lead, wash then in (Dawn) and then let them dry thoroughly. Then paint and bake them. However this is a time consuming process, and unless these are super custom jigs, it is not practical for a 1/16 and 1/32 oz head. However if you want to do this, then get some paint stripper. Put all of the jigs in a glass jar, and fill the jar with paint stripper just above the jigs. Wait about 20 minutes, and check to see if the paint has come off the jigs. If not, leave them in for another 20 minutes, check again and continue to do this until the paint has melted off the jigs. Once you have clean jigs, take them all to a slop sink and wash all of them from the stripper. I use Dawn. Once jigs are washed let dry really well, and then you can paint them. The other thing to check is the hooks. If the hooks have some rust on them, then I would just junk the jigs. I sent you a PM on the stripper I use.
  9. I found the link in the catalog. They were made from copper at one time, and you can modify the loop by bending it. https://hagensfish.com/catalog/#/Hagens Catalog/104
  10. They are called hitch hikers, and I have used them before. they are on page 102 in the Hagens 1019-2020 catalog
  11. They also make copper ones, which can be used. Check out Hagen's.
  12. I have a Hagen's and although not cheap. it has performed flawlessly for me. There is also an adaptor you can buy in case you want to use heavier wire.
  13. Smalljaw is correct we need more info, and you need to dial in what you are trying to achieve. There is a lot of info on the i-net. Here is a link I have used in the past. https://www.tacklecrafting.com/baits/wb_size_chart/ There are a lot of other sources out there. Single Colorado, double Colorado etc. BTW welcome to TU.
  14. I was pretty happy with how the blades came out. You can see what can be done with powder paint.
  15. Sounds about right if you are going to apply everything with powder paint. Clearcoat would be last step if you want extra protection.
  16. If you are referring to keeping the main line from riding up over the "R" bend, than you can use braid as Jigman mentioned, or you can use rubber skirt collars and slide that over the bend as well.
  17. Round nose pliers to close loops tighter. What do you mean by reinforce?
  18. There are several ways you can add dots or stripes. Paint pen is one of them. You can also use colored electrical tape, and cut out the profile you want and stick it on the blade. You can use colored permanent markers, or stick on colored tape, pinstriping tape, or anything that will stick. If you are worried about it coming off, epoxy the finished surface with Devcon 2 Ton (D2T).
  19. Lucas, Welcome to TU. If you go with an air brush, you will have to use a white base. Now you can either go with water base or lacquer paint. Water base is the easiest however durability is weak, and you will have to clear coat the blades with epoxy to keep the paint from coming off. If you go with lacquer, then a clear coat is not necessary, however you need very good ventilation, as lacquer paint really has a strong odor and not good for your lungs. I powder paint all of my blades. It is the easiest and the most durable. If you want extra durability, you can clear coat the powder painted blade. Powder painting and clearcoat will add some weight to the blades, however I have never found any adverse effect to this. If you powder paint, you will need powder paint, fluid bed if you are doing both sides, a toaster oven and a cooling rack. I can help you with a fluid bed tutorial. This is the simplified version. If you search this forum, you will see many powder painted blades that I have done. If you want some pics PM me your e-mail address.
  20. Welcome to TU. I think I know you for another site, (TT)? Are you the guy asking about reel cleaning and bearings? Anyway, on the wire, I think you mean .031 not .31. The latter decimal is 5/16" thick, and you are definitely not bending that by hand. Anyway, I am a big fan of Wiha tools, and I have a pair of their round nose pliers. German made and made very well. They are available pretty much everywhere on line. You can even buy them direct from Wiha.
  21. I have been using Devcon (D2T) for years as well and I only apply one coat also. I do not thin it, so it goes on a little thicker this way.
  22. It's funny because there were not a lot of different finish coats available back then like there are now. Someone always had the answer why one finish was better than the other. Good times.
  23. I remember that as well on which one was stronger and which one was better. Guys trying to do harness testing on epoxy finishes. It was pretty brutal at times.
  24. I have this mold and have poured several hooks in it. The 32786, Owner 5304, most of all the Gamis hook series, some VMC's and some Trokars. The problem is that they are all comparable in length. The only hook that has a longer shank is Mustad 34184-DT. The DT stands for Dura-Tin. There are no drawbacks to this hook except the fact that the hook is polished silver and not black nickle. I don't know of many 1.5x -2x longer hooks other than spinnerbait hooks. Maybe someone else has an idea.
  25. I forgot about the chatroom as well. Yes, definitely some good conversation back in the day.
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