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Jio

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Posts posted by Jio

  1. Clemmy,

    I'm not -right now- looking anything special, but I keep my eyes open for new shops because Stamina, which I used before, don't satisfy me even the shopping there has been easy.

    BUT -about the shop- I would like to find some shop which has lot of all ordifferent kind of stuff available, I don't like to oder something here and something there; too much shipping costs.

    Jio

  2. Is there any other shops exept Moore's and Stamina who sell foreiger builders in USA?

    Stamina has gone down; less stuff, more price and I've never tested Moore's Lures.

    I'm looking stuff for wooden lures and spinners, eye screws, bodies, trebles, etc.

  3. Hey Jio, Diemai,Swede etc - what do they use for topcoat over there, is it Propionate, or epoxy, or some other mysterious brew?

    As Diemai wrote people use here very much clear, one component concrete lacque called LV 1 (Solmaster mainpage).

    Other popular is propionate-based lacque called "nitro", which comes dry very fast and make hard cover, but I haven't tested it ever.

    All other are self made propionate lacque or CAB-lacque from "Lakkavalmiste" (CAB Coating System - LV COATINGS).

  4. Anyone know how the action is on the plugs with the cupped lips? Only thing I have seen similar to that are some of hazmail's plugs.

    -Those "cupped lips" are called "saddle lips" in Finland too. Those lures, behind the link, have -I guess- more side-to-side action than wiggling because the lure bodies looks skinny.

    Fatter blanks have more wiggling and if you put lip more down and it makes that wiggling action too because it makes more water resistance.

  5. Jio

    Maybe you can say something to it ?

    You have already mentioned , that it was metallic glitter , but is it REALLY metal ? I am not so sure anymore after Smokey's statement :huh:!

    Samfishing sell that glitter as a "Metallic glitter", I've still used myself all kind of glitters (and all of them are not metallic) without problems. Of course it's better first test it before the use.

  6. In my oppinion, he uses a hacksaw blade (a saw blade for metal). And I think he uses just an ordinary one, not a thin one as you intend to use. Just think: in case he would have used a thin one, would he been able to press the led sheet you see in that slot for the through wire? And would a very thin lead sheet be enough to ballast a balsa lure? But best would be that you try different thickness blades, to see which is best for your needs.

    I would be concerned about other things, such as the fragility of such a lure. For instance, I do not know what kind of glue he uses for the wire, but obviously it is not a 2 component epoxy. So what will happen in case of a big strike (and fish)? The more so as the tail section is very thin. Or is this lure designed as a one fish lure?

    Anyway, one must try this method to see for himself.

    -I Still belive he uses piece of metal saw for sawing. The lead he use is ca. 1 mm (0,04 inch) thick (I've used same too), so it's very easy to put to the slot because balsa is also little flexible. The glue looks like water resistant wood glue, which is very popular here for trough wired lures, biggest salmons which are catched here every year by this kind of lures are over 20 kg (ca. 50 lbs).

    The lead there is not for make the lure sinking, for ballasting it's just enough. Don't forget that the lure gonna get treble to it's belly too.

    Videos do not show well, that the lure get many covers of lacque, which make it harder and durable.

    Lures blank look like it's built for zander, but don't know for sure.

  7. But the acetone/lacquer thinner in a propionate dip damage the glitter? Is it a special kind of glitter, or is he dipping in something else?

    I think it is just metallick glitter which they sell here in the lurebuilding shop called "Samfishing" (Samfishing -> "Tuotteet"-> "Vaapputarvikkeet").

    Does anyone know what kind of tool he is using to cut the slot in for the through-wire?

    He used blade of steel saw for that and the piece of wood, which he used, had that wire hole already.

    Steel saw is the easiest way to saw those wire holes yourself, just use little "rougher" blade.

  8. What do you use for eyes if you topcoat with propionate? The acetone or lacquer thinner will damage plastic eyes, right? Does that mean you are limited to painted on eyes or glass eyes?

    I use propionate lacque (clear and white) only for priming, over the painting I use clear polyurethane based concreate lacque, which give very hard cover to my lures.

    That concrete lacque "fits" for everything I've used without burning or floating; eyes (stick-on and plastick or glass ones), paints which are thinned by aceton (and I know that waterbased airbrush colors works as well).

    AND I don't need any drying wheels because I can just dip my lures to the lacque several times. No need to use any epoxies or 2 comp. lacques for covering and my lures are "enough" tooth proof for pike fishing.

    -> http://www.obblers.com/

    • Like 1
  9. This "Thalme" is well known Finnish lurebuilder, one of the best.

    This "Nirha"-lure is old Finnish traditional lure for trout fishing by rowing boat in the rapids or/and streams.

    I don't use them myself (I'm pike fisher), so I don't know for sure all posibilities to use this lure.

    I know these go on the top water and these are floating (they float tail down, only the nose of the lure is over the water) and very light weight.

    Also Nils Master have their own version of this "Nirha":

    Finlandia Uistin Oy

    but it's only available here in Finland.

    This version is build also for casting and they say on their site that you cast that lure in the stream over the "hot spot" and by pulling the rod you make it copy wounded minnow.

    So it's like a walk-a-dog style.

    I sent some e-mail to Mr. Halme himself, if he could come here and write some more about his lure.

  10. I use propionate-baced lacque also for my lures but only before painting.

    I let my lures me on very thin lacque ca 24 hours. Then I let them dry one week and put weights to the belly and fill the weighthing holes.

    After that I dip my lures several times firts in clear and after that white lacque and I let them dry (at least) another week.

    All that because aceton evaporate a long time after the lacque felt "dry".

    After painting I use one component, urethane based, concrete lacque.

    Great stuff, don't burn or make paints flow and gives very hard cover to my lures.

    http://www.obblers.com

  11. Thanks Dieter,

    I've been wondering is the meaning of those (lead) weights to make the spinner sink horizontal way if the reeling ends or are those there only for better casting possibility?

    Other what I don't know yet is how I put a treble in the middle of the lure; do I use one wire or do I cut it and put other wire somehow there?

  12. Jio,

    Take a look at the lures your interested in making and sort out the parts from the photos in their on line catalog.

    -Well, problem is that we don't have that size os spinners here in Finland. I've checked plenty of photos of these lures but all those are so/too furry and I can't see how they are build those lures "inside".

    I've see one photo silicon skirt spinner where was lead weights(??) inside the skirt and I wonder is there one wire or more?

    So, just looking pic's is not enough to me!

    Musky Mojo.jpg

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  13. I use -mostly- steel wool or sand paper to the cover of the lure, after that I paint lure white and do the coloring I want. Usually that's enough.

    There's also possibility scratch the lacque and paint away from plastick lure by the blade of the knife, but meaning is not to cut chips from the lure.

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