Jump to content

smalljaw

TU Member
  • Content Count

    2,370
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    41

smalljaw last won the day on March 14

smalljaw had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

517 Excellent

6 Followers

About smalljaw

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/05/1967

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pennsylvania

Recent Profile Visitors

2,760 profile views
  1. I get the same split rings and I will get one that has it happen maybe 1 in 15 or so. I normally don't have it happen on the blade, it is usually when I'm going onto the hook eye that it will happen. Now this is going to sound stupid but try it and see if it helps. I noticed this happens more when I get it started and then work it all the way around in which it takes 5 or 6 movements. If I get the split ring started and then take my pliers and hold the ring as far back as I can go and make 1 or 2 big rotations for the ring to go on it almost never gets sprung open. The same thing for the hook eye, it takes a bit to get it down but that really helped, it seemed the longer it takes to get it on the more apt it is to stay open. As for putting it on the hook eye, you will do better by cleaning the paint off the eye and I have a way to help with that. I sacrificed a spinnerbait hook to do this a long time ago and I still use the same hook to this day. I use a 5/0 hook that is too big to go all the way through the hook eye but still goes far enough in that it will help clear the eye. I put the point in as far as it will go and I work it back and forth until the paint falls off, it doesn't take that long.
  2. Well done, I like the material listing on screen!!!
  3. Map gas is too hot, propane is much better for this. I don't think it is too much heat though, the issue is how you are putting the colors on, you have to think about how the powder is going to spray. For example, on a bait that I'm doing that say has a white belly with a red throat patch, pearl sides and a black back I will do the colors in a certain order. First the white belly, then the red throat patch and that is because I may get overspray onto the pearl. Next I do the pearl body and finally the black back, but for the back I won't spray directly on top but maybe 5 degrees off center, it is very little. I do that so I get a little overspray onto what I call the shoulders of the bait, this area is lighter in color to the back and gives a nice transition over to the lighter pearl color.
  4. Fishboy gave you the easiest way to do it. You can also do the thing Jig Man alluded to in putting the keeper in and closing the mold and striking it with a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet. I will say that even cranking the mold closed in a vise you may still need to take a Dremel with an engraving bit and just run it through the indent of the wire keeper. The reason for that is because the mold may still need to be squeezed really tight for the mold to close completely so just barely run the bit through the indent in the mold.
  5. When you paint a jig with it and you see all one color, don't get excited. The first time I used gold veined paint I was disappointed as the jigs looked like plain gold. I figured they were painted so I'll cure them and maybe add some GP or watermelon and make roadkill out of it. Well after I took them out of the oven they looked great, and so don't judge your jig until after it is cured, that is when the veins really come out.
  6. You read that wrong, he means if they raise McDonalds workers raise to $15/Hr. he's be better off working there part time than making lures.
  7. You don't need a wire form for an in-line buzz bait, just a straight shaft about 8" in length.
  8. I will vouch for him as I have previously purchased lead from him before. It melts clean, no slag/dross and the price is really good for lead that clean.
  9. smalljaw

    Whip Finish

    I use the tool, I can do them by hand but not as fast as I can with the tool.
  10. You will get overspray but there are ways to limit it. The first is air pressure, if your regulator allows it try to get it under 5 psi. The second thing is getting close and using short quick pulses rather than just holding the trigger down. After that it is just practice, and remember, you aren't going to get fine detail like a regular airbrush and paint but you can layer and blend colors really well.
  11. I will echo Cadman, just pour it without the keeper. If you want a little extra width, take a small piece of ultra chenille and tie it on the hook shank . That should let you build up the area without having to use a ton of thread and you will have a wider area to tie on. Ultra chenille or nylon chenille work best.
  12. That is probably a custom design from cast industries (LPO). The collar design is the same as LPO but LPO's stock jigs have the barb on the opposite side. To me it looks like a redesigned sparkie head that is slightly more rounded with the ring and barb collar and Do-it doesn't make a mold like that.
  13. You're not going to comb out flash material, it will get caught and break off. As far as combing out hair, it usually doesn't need it, there are combs made but they are mostly underfur and dubbing combs. You could go to a pet store and buy a large size flea comb and it will do the same thing but again, the only things I heard of being combed out is craft fur and dubbing.
  14. smalljaw

    Limp Flash

    https://www.barlowstackle.com/MicroLon-P3127.aspx
×
×
  • Create New...
Top