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smalljaw last won the day on August 22

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About smalljaw

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  • Birthday 06/05/1967

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  1. Not really, unless you are using a really small blade on a bait with large wire and a big clevis.
  2. Yep, Mark is 100% correct!!! Clevis size is determined by wire diameter and a Bass/Pike bait in 1/2oz and 3/4oz is likely to have .041" to .043" diameter wire so a #3 clevis is probably going to be your best bet.
  3. It sounds like a lot of expense until you see how many feathers are in a pound. Toadfrog is right though, you pay by the length, but the feathers you need are probably the least expensive type. From the look of that lure you need plain old 5" to 7" strung hackle, and that is the range it is sold. That just means most feathers will be between 5" and 7" long, there may be a few shorter ones but not many. The Spirit River stuff is like $9.00 for a pack but you get a good amount of feathers and it is high quality for strung hackle and the feathers are in the 5" to 7" range. https://www.jsflyfishing.com/spirit-river-uv2-strung-saddle
  4. Probably any strung saddle hackle will work, the more important thing you need to know is the length. Strung saddle hackle comes in various lengths and you will also need longer length feathers than what is on the lure. For example if you want to make a lure with feathers that are 4" long you'll need to by 5" to 7" lengths in strung hackle. The best brand I've found is distributed by Hareline Dubbin. co. and it is the Spirit River brand, the quality of their strung hackle is really good and is perfect for lures like the one pictured.
  5. When you say "barrel roll" are you talking about a spring loop like you see on a beetle spin wire form? I would think that would work as well but it isn't used very much and I wouldn't be able to tell you if it is better. I was told a long time ago that the reason you don't see many larger spinnerbaits with that type of line tie is because when you tie your line to it you are stopping the blade arm from vibrating. I don't know if that is true or not but I do know that when fishing the same size spinnerbait in a closed loop and an "R" bend on the same line, rod, and reel made in the same wire diameter you can feel the difference. The "R" bend vibrates noticeably more than a closed loop but I'm not sure if it is enough to make a huge difference in the amount of fish you catch. The other issue is wire diameter and bending the spring loop, if that is what you mean by barrel roll. I make that loop with .031" wire for beetle spin wire forms and I use a round nose pliers to do it but it would be hard doing it with anything over .041" which makes the twisted or closed loop a better option but again, I'm not sure about the barrel roll.
  6. If you are using them for musky then you will want the twisted wire form also known as a closed loop. The closed loop makes a bait a little more durable but it cuts vibration down. It can also pinch your line but again, if using them for musky that isn't going to be an issue. Bass anglers usually use 10lb to 15lb line fluorocarbon or monofilament or 30 to 50lb braid with spinnerbaits so the line is thin and if the bait turns during the cast it can catch and get pinched on the twisted wire.
  7. Good eye Musky Glenn!!! I never thought about that and you are right, the blade arm rides almost parallel to the water surface while the body is on like a 30 - 40 degree angle. I'll bet that's it.
  8. Have you tried the Do-it weed wire guards? They are used in the wacky jig, I actually like them in the 1/16oz wacky jig as they are very light but still go a good job.
  9. I used the 90# nylon coated for tube jigs that were unpainted and they were 1/8oz to 1/4oz range. For what you want I would use the uncoated as it will be easier to work with on the smaller heads. The nylon coating needs to be trimmed back on the end that is going into the cavity, if you pour with the nylon coating on the wire your heads will end up with holes. For 1/16oz jigs go with 60lb uncoated which is .018 diameter and for the 1/8oz I'd go with 90lb which is .024 diameter. One thing to remember with the uncoated wire is when you paint your jig also heat the end of the wire and dip that in the powder as well and then cure. The powder on the end of the wire will keep it from unraveling since there isn't a nylon coating keeping it in place. https://www.cabelas.com/product/American-Fishing-Wire-SurfStrand-Uncoated-Wire/711866.uts
  10. If you use a Mustad 32746 in a size #1 and 1/0 you don't need any modification as they will work.
  11. smalljaw

    Loose Ned Heads

    You need harder lead, Rotometals sells 5% antimonial lead and that works really well. They also sell nuggets of 70% lead with 30% antimony, if you use 1lb of that to 19 or 20 lbs of soft lead it will really help and isn't too hard. I use 5% antimonial lead and it makes a difference, if you just want to use scrap lead find older wheel weights. You need to be careful with wheel weights as the newer ones have a high percentage of zinc which will corrode your pot in short order. Don't worry about hard lead and other molds, 5% antimony will harden the lead up that you may need to run your pot at a little higher temp but all your molds should pour fine with it. EDIT: I almost forgot, you NEED to cut the sprue off with a gate shear or diagonal cutter. If you are twisting or breaking the sprue off then you'll loosen the head all the time.
  12. I honestly hope you do post your results!! By doing that it will help us all, that way we know for certain that it was the body causing the blade not to spin. I'm 99% sure it is the body but there may be a different reason, I'd also like to hear the results if you get to fish with it.
  13. I already see the problem and Hillbilly voodoo caught it. The blade on the lower wire is too close to the body and it may have to be moved to the upper wire. What is happening is the size of the body is breaking up the water flow behind the blade, look at a Musky bucktail and you'll notice how the spacers keep the blades toward the front, this is done to allow the blades to start faster and spin at slower speeds. When you retrieve the bait the force of the water flowing over the cupped side of the blade causes it to lift and swing around wire. Well on your bait the water is flowing over the blade but the body being too close disrupts the flow of water keeping the blade from fully rotating. Judging from the picture and looking at the size of the blades I would thing that you need to space that blade very close to the front of the wire for it to work. I'm guessing that you would need enough beads or other spacers that there would be about 1/8" of play between the end of the wire and the front bead. If that would work you would have an interesting design, I would add another blade to the upper wire so you'd have the single blade spinning on the lower wire and a double blade on the upper wire. It will look and sound like no other bait of that type and could really catch some fish, I know I'd try it.
  14. I'm sorry but I'm confused. It is a buzzbait body converted into a spinnerbait with the line tie directly in front of the head? I can't wrap my mind around this enough to get a mental picture. When you say solid clevis do you mean a folded clevis or stirrup clevis? I apologize but your description isn't helping at all and I'm guessing the design is just wrong and by that I mean the angles are disrupting the flow of water to the secondary blade. The other issue is that a buzzbait wire form usually uses much heavier wire so if you are using a smaller blade on a large size 4 clevis well it might not have enough to force the clevis to completely around the wire so the blade sort of just wobbles around in its current position. With a spinnerbait a lot of things have to mesh in order for them the run correctly, like the secondary blade needs the cupped side to be facing upward toward the sky. The clevis has to have a hole larger than the wire diameter but the blade needs to be large enough to be able to carry the clevis around. An example is a 1/4oz bait I made a long time ago, I made it on .035" diameter wire so I had to use a #3 clevis but I tried to run a small size #3 willow blade on it. The result was that the #3 blade did not spin and even a #3.5 had to be reeled really fast in order to get a good rotation. When I dropped down to .031" diameter wire and went down to a size #2 clevis with the #3.5 willow blade, well that worked really well, the smaller diameter wire allows me to use a smaller clevis that made it easier for my blade to carry or pull the clevis completely around the wire. I don't know the blade types or sizes you are using or clevis type but a 1/2oz buzzbait wire form is probably .045" to .052" wire diameter. If that is the case then there is a possibility the clevis is too small meaning the hole diameter is the same size as the wire diameter, it goes on the wire fine but it binds just enough the force of the blade isn't strong enough to carry it around. It could be a lot of different things but a picture would make it easy to pin point the problem as your description is hard to make sense of, at least it is for me and I apologize for not understanding what you did.
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