smalljaw

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Everything posted by smalljaw

  1. smalljaw

    Wire and Colorado blade size

    Your question is too vague. Are you talking a double Colorado spinnerbait and if so, which blade the clevis or swivel? Are you talking about a single Colorado spinnerbait and if that is the case are you using a bait with a hidden weight? How about wire diameter? It may sound like I'm getting too deep into it but if you are talking about the Colorado blade on a clevis on a tandem bait with a willow on the swivel or even a double Colorado, the difference in size is enormous. Also, a hidden weight spinnerbait head is going to have blade sizes that are smaller than a standard frame and a heavy wire bait can accommodate an oversize blade which some people like to run, especially on 3/4oz and 1oz spinnerbaits. I can help you but you need to be more specific in your question because your current question leads to more questions than answers.
  2. smalljaw

    Tungsten/Epoxy jigheads

    I'm not sure what makes the Keitech heads different but I assumed all Tungsten was done the same way. The hook is placed in a special mold and Tungsten powder along with nickel and/or copper is pushed into the mold under intense pressure that generates enough heat to melt the nickel and/or copper which binds the tungsten powder together. The process is called sintering, and as I mentioned before, I talked to someone who is familiar with Tungsten products and was told most Tungsten is done in low wage countries because it is a high cost process. I know Keitech Tungsten heads say made in Japan but they may follow a rule similar to the U.S. in which you can label imported products as made in country is the product is transformed in some way in this country.
  3. smalljaw

    Alternative to Trokar 805?

    That mold uses both regular and flat eye hooks I believe. The 805 is a heavy wire and so the Mustad 32796, the Eagle Claw 2706BP, and the Gamakatsu 594 should all fit.
  4. smalljaw

    French vs Willow Blade issues

    The blades are too small for the body. The proper size willow on an in-line spinner will have the tip of the blade extend to the eye of the treble hook. Willows, even in the right size, are notorious for being hard to start and often need to be jerked hard after they hit the water in order for them to begin to spin. I use to fish Rooster Tail Lightning spinners which had willow blades and every one you had to give that initial jerk to get the blade going. So, judging from your pictures and weights I'd say the 1/8oz needs a #3 or even 3.5 and the 1/12oz needs a size #2 minimum. Just so you know, I contacted Warden lures, makers of the Rooster tail, way back in the early 90s when I was using that Lightning spinner and they told me that even when I get the blade spinning that I would have to reel a bit faster than what I did when using the spinners with their traditional swing blade. After I was told that I didn't understand why they would use the willow if it didn't spin as easy as the other style blades but after using it for a bit I discovered the reason it was used. When the fish were spooky in clear water the faster retrieve was needed to generate a strike but the other blade style would cause the lure to lift too high but the willow stayed deeper, it became a staple for me. I still make in-lines but not a lot and they are mostly 1/4oz with #3 French blades for spooky clear water river smallmouth with a few small 1/10oz trout spinners with #2 sonic blades.
  5. smalljaw

    titanium spinner bait wire

    I'm guessing the same rule applies to them as it does the United States. If a product that is imported and then significantly transformed in the country it can then be labeled as being made in that country. So having raw Tungsten heads shipped from China and then painted and weed guards added and /or silicone would probably constitute a significant change allowing them to say "made in Japan", maybe? I really don't know but I was told that the cost of making Tungsten jigs is so high it has to be done in China and that is where most of the Tungsten products come from. Judging from the price Keitech charges I would imagine it isn't made in Japan, after all the price of Japanese tackle is high because of exchange rates and their labor is high cost like America's.
  6. smalljaw

    Jig mold decisions

    Everyone has given you good answers but I will throw my 2 cents in as well. If you like the Arky style jig, the Trokar Arky mold is the way to go, I get the VMC 7161 hook for them and it is a good stout hook that I doubt you get flex even slack lining with 20# fluorocarbon. The Owner 5317 is another good one if you want a high end hook and there is always the Eagle Claw 786 or the Mustad 32786. The flex you get isn't due to the hook brand but the diameter of the hook . All the hooks I mentioned are considered heavy wire hooks and should work well with a heavy power rod and 20# FC, and you learn to use alternative hook sets rather than slack lining you'll be amazed at how strong a standard wire hook is...LOL!!! Welcome to TU!!!!
  7. smalljaw

    titanium spinner bait wire

    I actually talked with a guy that goes to China to have Tungsten weights manufactured and he explained it to me. I was going to get the powder and do the resin deal but he told me that you can't get the same results as what happens during the sintering process. The Tungsten is mixed with 3% - 5% nickel and/or copper and then it goes into a special mold where it is put under extreme pressure. The pressure creates enough heat that it puts the nickel and/or copper in a molten state which is what binds the Tungsten together. That process is the only way a jig can be made because the melting temp of Tungsten would also melt a hook so it is sintered together. That is also why you see 97% Tungsten and not 100%, that other alloy needs to be in there to bind it together, it is pretty interesting but something we couldn't do at home.
  8. smalljaw

    Float n Fly/small hair jig heads

    Well then what you do is go by the type of cover and then the jig head you are going to use. If you are lucky you may have a head in which you can use a 2/0 heavy wire hook, I make a 1/4oz Arky head with a VMC 7161 2/0 heavy wire hook and it is killer. That allows me to fish the lakes with a mixed bag and be effective on both. I have the heavier hook for cover but the jig is still compact so it makes it effective in lower water temps and it is a size that both species will eat.
  9. smalljaw

    titanium spinner bait wire

    I don't think it was Terminator, it may have been Stanley. I have some Stanley Icon spinnerbaits that had "tunable titanium wire", you could bend it just like stainless but it held up longer. As for those heads, the OP wants wire to make his own, the last time I researched titanium wire was over 10 years ago and it wasn't readily available. Also if you could get it, the wire is in a raw state so you would probably need a metallurgy degree and expensive equipment in order to temper it correctly. I put making your own titanium spinnerbait wire forms in the same category as making your own Tungsten jigs, I know about the powder and epoxy method but you don't get the same properties as you do with sintered Tungsten. The major one is the increased density over lead which makes it harder so it is more sensitive and the same size weight is smaller than lead. So if you aren't getting that effect with the powder and epoxy, why go through 50X the expense? The same issue applies to titanium wire, even if you can find it and purchase it, you won't be able to temper it correctly so you don't get the advantage of titanium.
  10. smalljaw

    titanium spinner bait wire

    I wrote about this a very long time ago and I don't think it has changed yet. I'm a spinnerbait junkie, it is my favorite lure and it was the one that got me started in making my own tackle. Anyway, after I figured out the spinnerbait and how to adjust it and changing wire diameters and blade spacings, I decided to look into titanium wire forms and I learned a lot. The first thing is titanium is very brittle in raw form, to make wire forms it is cut to length and then bent and then it is put through the tempering process. After that the body is poured and then the top loop on a titanium wire form is then bent enough to get the clevis on, then the beads and then the swivel and blade. I'm telling you this because anyone that has used a Terminator long enough has either found one with a top loop with a big gap or they didn't notice it and reeled in a bait the lost the swivel and blade. That happens because the loop wasn't bent all the way during the tempering process and once it was tempered it can't be closed because it retains its shape which is why it was used for wire forms to begin with. With that said, it likely means you will have to buy titanium wire forms already made and bent, and then go through the hassle of trying to get the blades and spacers on. Cadman told you how the wire would have to be tempered but you would need to heat up the entire wire to an exact degree and then have it cooled down at a certain rate or it would be junk. This is the reason you don't see many titanium baits on the market because it costs a lot to make them and for the small manufacturer and home hobbyist it just can't be done unless you find the wire forms already made and I don't remember ever finding any when I looked for them. You aren't the first to want to make them in titanium but look around and see how many there are on the market, you'll be shocked to know that there isn't many around because it isn't easy and it is costly to do. I don't mean to try to dissuade you from looking into it but I think this is feasible just yet but if you can find a way to do that would be awesome.
  11. smalljaw

    Float n Fly/small hair jig heads

    For regular hair jigs it depends on where I'm using them and whether it is largemouth or smallmouth. A 1/4oz hair jig for largemouth may has a 2/0 or even a 3/0 heavy wire hook. The same type of jig in a 1/4oz foe smallmouth will probably have a light or standard wire hook in a 1/0 and the main reasons are do to the places I'm fishing for each one. For largemouth I know I'll be around brush so my tackle will be heavier with a 1/4oz jig. I will probably be using a medium power rod with 10# or 12# line. For smallmouth I'll be fishing rocks mostly and I'll be using lighter line, probably 6# with a medium power spinning rod. For me a 1/4oz hair jig for smallmouth is big, and that is because when I'm targeting smallmouth I'm usually fishing a river environment so the water will probably be high if I'm using that weight. The lakes I fish for smallmouth have a dominate largemouth population and most areas you will catch both so I lean toward heavier jigs in those lakes. So you can probably tell by now that I get a little too specific but it works for me and gives me reason to make more jigs...LOL!! If you let me know how you intend to use the hair jigs you are going to make I can tell you what hook sizes I'd go with.
  12. smalljaw

    Float n Fly/small hair jig heads

    I do the same as Jig Man, 1/16oz size #2 hook but for 1/8oz I go to a #1 hook, I don't go over 1/8oz for that technique.
  13. smalljaw

    ghost blade clevis size

    Safety pin spinnerbait is what is typically used for bass fishing, just google "Tandem spinnerbait" and you'll see what I'm referring too. It is different that the in-line spinner you are making, that is why you have to look at everything from the wire diameter to the clevis size and the weight of the body. Have you tried giving the bait a sharp twitch or jerk to try to get the blade started? I know that there are a lot of commercially made spinners than need to be ripped once or twice to get them started.
  14. smalljaw

    Base pins

    RH means "round head" , the 38 is "3/8", and the 2 is "2 cavity", that is how the mold is identified. There are 2 types of weed guard usually used, a wire weed guard and a fiber weed guard, the mold is specifying it was designed to be poured with the fiber guard inserted. Just like Cadman told you, measure the opening, there are 4 standard size fiber weed guards, an FG-9 which is 1/16" diameter, FG-12 which is 5/64" diameter, then the FG-30 which is 1/8" in diameter, and the FG-40 which is 5/32" in diameter. So measure the slot for the weed guard and that will tell you which weed guard you need and the size pin you will need. I'm guessing it is 1/8" as that is the most common size for a 3/8oz jig head but it is just a guess.
  15. smalljaw

    Goby Head Vibrating Jig

    I think the head would be fine but I too would prefer a ring collar to get some flair out of the skirt. I've made them a lot of different ways and I actually prefer using the flat eye hook and single split ring blade attachment. I get a lot more erratic action that way and I found a head style that I like so much I stopped using other head styles. It is the Trokar Pro Swim Jig, I like the 3/8oz and 1/2oz the best, it swims erratic at higher speeds without blowing out compared to round and football shaped heads. I know you don't want to get a new mold but I'm sure a lot of guys here can pour you some at a reasonable price.
  16. smalljaw

    ghost blade clevis size

    The ghost blades seem to be ok on a safety pin type spinnerbait. I never tried them on an in-line but I have some things you may try that could help. The first is clevis type, I'm assuming you are using like .024" - .028" diameter so your clevis size should be fine but if you are using a folded clevis try a stirrup or easy spin. Most inline spinner guys prefer the folded clevis but the stirrup clevis spins easier, so if you are using a #1 folded clevis try the same size stirrup clevis unless you are using .030" or larger wire. You may also want to try using a heavier body, the extra weight will allow you to give a little more speed to your retrieve which should help. As I said, I have used those blade on safety pin spinnerbaits and I used a #3 Colorado on a size #2 clevis on .031" diameter wire on a 3/8oz bait but that set up is much different than what you are doing.
  17. smalljaw

    1/8oz weedless craw jig

    1/8oz weedless craw style hair jig.
  18. smalljaw

    Owner Jungle hooks

    If it follows the timeline of other Owner releases it will be February or March before you see them. It may also be one of those hooks that you have to get direct from Owner, vendors don't carry a lot of inventory of Owner because the profit margins are really low.
  19. smalljaw

    Inline spinner questions

    Go with 5/32", I say that because that size will work with size #3 spinner as well as a #5 or #6.
  20. smalljaw

    Harbor Freight Powder Paint

    I'll echo the others, it seems to go on heavier than Columbia coatings or Protec. I was using the flat black and it was ok if I sprayed it but in a fluid bed it wasn't working. The temp is really touchy with it, I tried using real low temps in order for it to just adhere to the heads I was painting but that didn't work. Then 1 more second of heat and it seemed to be ok but it produced a real heavy coat.
  21. smalljaw

    VMC 7147BN Jig hook

    I really like VMC hooks that I've been getting. I'm really a fan of the 60 degree 7161 heavy wire in the smaller size 2 and 1. I've been using the 7250 black nickel spinnerbait for a long time now, well over 6 years and I'm going to try a few more models before the spring.
  22. smalljaw

    VMC 7147BN Jig hook

    It depends on what you mean by "strong". The 7147 is a light wire hook similar to a Mustad 32746.
  23. smalljaw

    Inline Swing Heads

    What did you use? You stuck toothpicks into lead???? Sorry but it is hard for me to understand exactly what you did.
  24. smalljaw

    wire benders

    From what you described it sounds to me like you aren't pushing forward while twisting, a very common mistake when first using a bender like this. I have a different one but the same principle applies, you have to have forward pressure to keep the wire wraps nice and tight otherwise you get the "bread tie" effect.
  25. smalljaw

    do it mold questions

    The sparkie head is basically the same head as the style "s" with the difference being the sparkie has a longer collar area. The Style "s" and the sparkie are more rounded and have the majority of the weight forward vs the arky which is more flat due to the weight being more evenly distributed. For what it is worth, both jigs work well for me but if I want a more stand up type presentation I use an arky jig and if I'm going to drag more or fish around grass and brush then the sparkie is my choice but they all can be used as all purpose heads.