Jump to content

michael merrill

TU Member
  • Content Count

    93
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by michael merrill

  1. Very enlightening Crawchuck...Great work indeed!
  2. Terry, That is a great looking lure! Do you have any problems with the fish throwing it more easily than a treble,and also do you need to "set" the hook like on a weedless frog?Thank you for the response, I have always wondered if it was possible,and if it had been done.Since you have done it and I have always wanted some...would you paint any custom colors if I were to order a half dozen of that color?Thanx again.
  3. Just wondering if anyone has developed a weedless type crank for use in leafy vegetation?My thoughts were kinda going in the direction of a single worm hook protruding from the rear of the lure rather than two trebles.What do you guys think about that notion or a similar one?
  4. Durham's is hard to beat.I personally fill all wire form holes with epoxy.
  5. The problem with balsa is the structural integrity of the wood type itself.The less dense the wood,the greater the action possibilities.However,this also equates to the body being less durable.Many use it because of it's proven fish-catching ability anyway.I have witnessed several different methods used to strengthen the lure,while still getting the benefit of balsa's action.While most do the job,they also added too much labor time for me. In order to provide ties which are much stronger than the lure itself and avoid all of the added complications of a thru-wire design, I use a pilot hole filled with epoxy.I have a sled-type jig that holds a lure in position directly in front of a fixed-mounted rotary tool with a jobber type drill bit that is just slightly larger than the wire forms I use.After placing the blank in position,holding it down,I slide it into the fixed drill bit and then back out and do it again(to further clean out the hole.)This set-up makes quick, accurate, and consistent work of the holes themselves. I have made frames out of 3/4"th X 3"w X various lengths plywood with 3/4" foam centers that have equally-spaced holes drilled through the foam.When it comes time to install the wire forms,I firmly push the lures into the holes with both, the nose and tails holes protruding out either side of the foam,but not past the edge of the frames.This allows me to place the frames on a flat surface with all the nose or tail holes accessible at once.I then use a thinner viscosity two-part stuctural epoxy and an injector-type applicator placed to the bottom of the holes to fill all the nose or tail holes at one time,being sure not to fill completely.One must start filling the holes while the injector tip is at the bottom of the hole or you will have entrapped air which will try to escape.After all the holes are filled to the level I want(leaving room for the volume that the wire form will take up),I install the pre-made wire forms carefully. When they are dry ,flip the frame over and repeat on the opposite. If this is done properly, you can break the bait in half before that connection fails. I would not recommend this method for really large fish. I make bass baits.
  6. Jed, If you go to megahobby.com they may have what you need.There seemed to be a wide variety of colors, both spray can and bottle(2oz. I think.)tamiya.com may help also.
  7. The bathtub... I would guess that ninety-nine percent of makers started tuning and testing in the tub.If you know what to look for,one can tell with surprisingly little room the type and amount of action a lure has.There is such a thing as too much. Usually though, if the maker has a good connection between line and lure,a light and steady straight pull yields the telling results.Then, one should also pull progressively faster to note any changes or differences in action. Perfectionism... A necessity when designing. Clearcoating... It usually spells trouble if you don't somewhere in the process, at least once.Your friend WILL regret the lack of protection when he actually gets one right
  8. Cranky, I made a poor approach in a previous thread a few months back,one which your original entry here resembled very closely, by dismissing the knowledge base here.I was simply wanting to know why anyone would use protection that was not meant for outdoor furniture, let alone fishing lures.On a whole,this forum has some very experienced fellas.They will share plenty of helpful information if you let them.We all make mistakes from time to time,myself included. I, also speak from experience, having tried poly in the past.My point was to show how water affects polyurethane.The integrity was also compromised severely once the clear was abused by rocks,laydowns,etc.Poly also has the tendency to tear off in large chunks(foil-sided esp.) as opposed to smaller chips,which I prefer.If you attack me,expect a counterattack.I don't prefer that road though.If you are happy, then all is well, I was simply attempting to stop another from repeating what I felt was an earlier mistake of my own.Peace.
  9. I would also fish at night...fancasting is a good way to thoroughly cover any given area...Huge musky sized jitterbug...long, long pauses.Or if ya wanna cheat one...a live shiner on a balloon rig.
  10. I would also fish at night...fancasting is a good way to thoroughly cover any given area...Huge musky sized jitterbug...long, long pauses.Or if ya wanna cheat one...a live shiner on a balloon rig.
  11. Cranky, I am glad to see the interest in a sealer prior to paint talked about.It has been my experience that there are many ,many killer handmade cranks out there to be had.Of all the ones that I have used my favorites are the ones who not only catch me a lot of fish,but when the abuse is too much and the finish is chipped,busted, tore,etc...etc the exposed wood takes on very little, if any, water.Those can be refinished much easier.All those guys who will pay for handmades expect them to breach on occasion.They love it when they are catching fish and bust one up, but can continue to fish it without ruining that lure.You cannot have those results without effectively waterproofing that wood. One should use a system that each layer of finish is compatible with the previous.A fine example is a job that I helped a guy do where he used lacquer sanding sealer over the wood under polyurethane,that is a big no,no.You could take a sharp anything and seperate those layers like a zipper.I believe the popular clears here seem to be compatible to water-based paints.I have seen Createx mentioned a lot.there is hours maybe days of material on that subject. I ,myself, don't mind a liitle paint bein' busted off, as long as the wood remains untouched by water.They catch more fish that way!
  12. Guiley, I am not positive,not having spoke to an attorney who deals with those laws,but I have seen many packages with warnings that may constitute a legal liability waiver that eliminates the need.Never heard of a successful case of personal injury against a lure manufacturer.But that sure doesn't mean there has not been one.
  13. Fellas, There are some ideas that just shouldn't be shared.Unfortunately, I too have had a few less than desirable transactions, and know people who have been blatently ripped off.One guy who did the rippin' is pretty well known now and has someone else's spoils,as far as I am concerned.I would not even think about using that man's lure...no matter who touts it's praises.There are way too many wolves.
  14. Skeeter....I knew there was something about you I liked! :grin: Cranky, This forum has different opinions all around.I have apologized to a few whom I have accidentally offended with careless statements and will continue to take such measures, but you are wrong.PERIOD. Here's the deal... if you leave a soda can full of product on a table finished with only polyurethane,that can WILL leave a discolored ring in that place.Under the exact same circumstances, Devcon or the clearcoat that I use WILL NOT be affected the same. I am a professional woodworker ,and it just so happens that I have in my possession one Minwax polyurethane can AND I QUOTE "BLAH...BLAH...BLAH...Interior use only".I assumed that one can extrapolate the notion a little further and understand that means inside the home.I guess if yer fishin' on the 'ol Playstation you'd be covered!
  15. Polyurethane has several different issues concerning finish, not the least of which is printed on it's own label.NOT INTENDED FOR CONTINUAL SUBMERSION OR USE BELOW THE WATER LINE. Nuff said.
  16. Hey Fellas, Interesting discussion that is ancient but continues to be a thought provoking notion to many in the fishing world.With so many supporting facts for hypothesis,who could surely know.I truly believe that color, conditions,action, and a host of other variables play a part in the answer.Generally speaking I believe that the casting placement and presentation coupled with the lures action,(whether imparted by the user or "straight from the factory"),is what first attracts the fish.After the fish decides to go after the treat it makes its "mind" up while in route to eat the offering.In a split second it eats or turns away,depending on the negative signals it processes.That is when color makes a difference at times.I pick topwater colors more carefully,and I have read studies that show color changing dramatically the deeper the lure goes.So,a lure color looks much different in say two feet of water than fifteen.Hey, but I only have six to eight confidence patterns that get 90 percent of my line time.
  17. BBB, Another option for profiling your own creations is a template/pattern following type drum sander.It mounts on a drill press with the drill press table nearly flush to the bottom of the bearing that mounts on the lower portion of the drum.I have attached a pic. to help visually understand the concept. First, one would need to make a pattern to their own liking/standards using 3/8" or 1/2" stock( something fairly hard).Now you have a pattern to follow, but you need a way to fasten it temporarily and securely to the actual wood blank.I have drilled three tiny holes about 1/4" in from the edge of the pattern around the profile.Then, take needles or small pins and glue them into the holes with about 1/8" or so sticking out.Try to be sure that the location of these holes places them where they will be completely removed during the sanding/shaping part of the process.If not, the the remaining tiny holes sometimes create air bubble issues during finish.Lastly, push your balsa blank straight down onto the pins.This will hold the blank in place while it is sanded with the pattern following drum.The pattern rides along the bottom bearing while the drum accurately reproduces the blank above it. This enables you to reproduce the exact same profile over and over while you tinker with the hardware, lip, line tie, and weighting placements of your creation.
  18. As always, the focus is NOT usually on what the fish are REALLY caught on.IMHO
  19. Red, I have worked in the custom cabinet / architectural millwork industry for about twelve years in addition to having my own small shop.It's great to hear you are starting up a business down there in Fla.I am curious, do you take on residential or commercial work.I would think that those hurricanes a couple years back re-opened the industry ten-fold.Man, what a tough business manufacturing has become in the past fifteen years.I hope your business proves as successful as this site has!
  20. Blades, I have had many customers ask for an unavailable paint scheme.Some have even given me a color copy of a live baitfish from the area they planned on fishing.Or sometimes they ask for a color variation of an existing scheme. Many of these patterns are produced specifically for these people.I would consider these "custom" paint jobs, but the lure itself is not a custom shape. I guess it comes down to how much (in terms of quantity) of any given product or pattern is produced,and whether or not the general public can get their hands on it.
  21. I have to agree with Skeeter, polycarbonate is the way to go.Although I have never used or heard of an "impact modified" acrylic, I have used several different types of clear plastic in my beginnings.I also repaired or replaced them after... at my cost.Save your time and money, not to mention patience.
  22. Hey fellas, Has anyone here ever thought about or tried the idea of making a lure mold which could apply gill and scale impressions, possibly at the same time as applying foil? Maybe this same idea could even be modified and used on previously machined and foiled body styles in order to insure correct and consistent hardware placement?Could one take a bunch of the same bodies,for instance,make a two-piece, box- shaped mold that would locate all necessary holes in that lure body?One "jig" to locate all hole placement in the same step?Does this make sense?
  23. fatfingers, There are many carvers who prefer Basswood to carve with.As far as a tooth-proof hardwood goes, I am not sure, but I don't think that God made one of those.There is a product, however, that is meant for curing structural integrity problems that occur when wooden frame members are damaged by water.I believe that product's name is Cure-rot.It is a liquid that is applied by allowing it to soak into the rotten wood.Afterwards, the previously rotten wood is supposed to become rock hard and structurally sound. I have not used this ,but it may be something that could help you musky guys with tooth-proofing prior to finish application? Here are some woods that I believe are known for resisting water damage.Redwoods and Cedars come to mind.Cypress also, but I don't know it's carving or bouyancy characteristics.I say that it's kinda like a trade off, density and carving friendliness.Redwood and cedar have very good qualities all around IMHO. By the way,if you live near Caesar's Creek, there was a smaller type company in that little town off of St. Rt. 73 that used a bunch of aromatic Red Cedar for various products.I'll betcha their scrap would be perty cheap, maybe free.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top