michael merrill

Tom, I completely understand the time versus money notion, not to mention family priorities.To answer your question, I have done as many as 700 and as few as 150 or so.I have honed down some areas in the past three years that have enabled the process to complete a run of twelve dozen in about eight days time;on average,fourteen to sixteen minutes each. That particular style has been enough to keep my spare time occupied, although that will change when I advertise.If I did not change anything in the system,I could make about 9000 lures in a years time.

Here's what I do... 1.) Make or purchase a picture frame that will surround your lure, making sure the frame is about 1 inch larger top to bottom;In other words, your lure will fit inside the frame with some room to spare. 2.) Get some thin plastic (clear works best) and cut it to the same size as the outside dimensions of the frame.I use about 1/32 inch acrylic, but any thin, clear plastic should work. 3.) Put small pieces of two-sided tape on all four corners of your frame, and temporarily attach your plastic. 4.) With your lure laying on it's side and on a table or flat surface in front of you,heat the plastic on the frame with a pencil torch or cigarette lighter,making sure to move the heat source across the plastic to ensure even heat.Do not overheat, it doesn't take long. 5.) Holding the frame by the outside, center over your lure and push straight down until your frame lies flat on the table,with the lure pushing up through the plastic.Let cool for a minute or two. 6.) Now, you can remove the lure from the plastic mask,remove the mask from it's frame,and draw the pattern you desire on that lure with a sharpie or what have you. 7.) Place the lure back on the table, place the mask back on top and transfer the parts of the pattern you want to remove with the sharpie. 8.) Remove the necessary plastic to create the mask needed with a Dremel, being sure to knock down any melted edges after.I use a set of small drill bits and such. 9.) You have now created a mask that will fit that lure perfectly, and can be reused as many times as you like,with cleaning from time to time. If your only making one, this would not be the way to go,but if you were making a large volume of the same lure, well...that's a different story.

What Dwain said!!

I have a system for one lure style that has about 15 minutes a piece - complete....BUT, that is only one style, and even though it is a very successful system, it IS only one style NOT a line of styles.Although the system is adaptable to additional styles, which would improve customer demand, it would be necessary to build precise jigs and fixtures for each style as I did for the first one.That is not feasible for a plethera of reasons.One machine,infinite style possibilities,quick changeover time,cnc adaptable,"copy" capabilities, multiple body machining simultaneously(twelve at a time),total body time in the 2 minute range,those are some of my driving needs.I have spent the past two years walking down the road leading to the successful completion of my goal of becoming the most sought after custom lurebuilder in modern history...GOOD LUCK...huh? Tom, It would be interesting to see how you have figured out how to fabricate full-bodied 3D lures with a pantograph type set up.Is your set up kinda like a figurine copy carver?I really like the notion of being able to produce different sizes of the same shape...very,very appealing.Perhaps I could give you some work in the future...

Don't use them to cut out my lures,however,I did write a program to help fabricate my bill templates.This is a more time consuming process than a well designed punch, but the waste is minimal,because the negative created by the template then spins around 180 and fits back into the template.I am currently working on a design for a machine that would be able to have cnc adaptations added later,when I could afford it.

I am not exactly sure that I know or understand what an auto-shaper is or how it could be configured.That would be interesting to learn about though.Seeing how I claim to be a professional woodworker, that is a little embarassing. :oops: Having said that, I have seen many different configurations for "copy carvers",most of which are three axis(X,Y,Z),however, without some major modifications, those do not meet requirements necessary for me.I was thinking that a pantograph set up would work well for flats, and would reproduce a variety of patterns.With the right bullnose(half-round) cutter,I would hope that would be a very quick way to completely machine flatsided bodies.Right now I am in the process of researching and designing a one of a kind lathe type machine where a stylus copies a stack spindle while two others cut copies.Many vibration issues to contend with,and linear motion products are very pricy, but, when all is said and done,I will be very happy...hopefully.By then I should be able to acquire the necessary digital equipment to share visually.Always thinking...sometimes out loud...to my detriment.Thanx!

Was talkin to a buddy and the subject of luremking came up...imagine that.He says that he has seen a router pantograph used to reproduce simple shapes.So I wonder if this could apply to flatsides...anyone?

Husky, if you log on to the website I posted, they have an online catalog.

Rockler woodworking and hardware(Rocklerpro.com) has a newer tool that will cost you about 30 dollars that can improve accuracy and efficiency.They call it a "microplane rotary shaper".It is basically a drum sander in which the sanding drum has been replaced by a steel cutting drum, a round wood rasp of sorts.The interesting part though,lies in the template follower that can be attached.If the drum is mounted onto a small drillpress with the bottom close to the press table,a person can treat the tool like a bottom bearing cutter.The "bearing" will follow a 1/4 or 3/8 inch template,which should be made to the users specs.I have and continue to use a Robosander,which uses the same principle but is actually a sanding drum with a bearing underneath.I believe the microplane will cut smoother and need the sleeve replaced less often than my sander type.I have ordered the microplane.I also use it for woodworking, so it has many pattern following uses in my shop.The 1 inch model is item #20506, the 2 inch item #20382 ,and the pattern follower kit is item #26517.Hope this helps out some of us.

I would like to hear some suggestions from the fellas that do this regularly.I have a guy who has given me a few lures to refinish for him.He wants me to apply foil over some plastic production lures. In addition, he has also given me a couple older Poes 300's to refinish with a specific pattern in mind on one of them.My concern with applying foil over plastic lies in the adhesion.What type of method could I use and still be able to emboss the lure with my texture roller having the scales as "deep" as on my balsas or cedars?There seems to be issues with the Poes not catching fish,not sure if its color or weight or?I would like to return the Poes as proven fish catchers.Will the fellas who have dealt with those please offer up some advice on what it takes to alter one of those Poes to make it produce.Blackjack offered earlier a stripping method that I will be using to "peel it like a banana",but I would also like to weight it with a proven method so I dont ruin his lures.He is a customer of mine,and has been.Thanxs.

I use taxidermy lacquer paints with great success, however I do not use a two component clearcoat.I have heard that some taxidermy paints do not mix well with etex or devcon.I suspect the transparent colors cause the most problems,because those are the ones that I take extra steps with also.Not sure why, but sumpin be differnt! :-D

Go with the foil,definitely.In my opinion, you just cannot beat a foil substrate for any natural style paint scheme.

Has anyone been able to determine if any sounds are better than others?

I betcha Skeeter knows.If I were you, heed that man's word. I am sure that he will answer in time.He is very knowledgable in regards to epoxy and weighting issues.

It was definitely not Art in Okeana(A.C. Shiners).The name was 007,not a model of.Only problems were with clearcoating durabilty...it would tear very large portions out... down to the foil.It has been at least 7 years...a few years before Brian's unfortunate departure from the tackle dept.If you could post a pic. of one, I would know immediately.I would be very interested in buying some, if you would. By the way, Wee Baits are still under the glass also.Go Wes!!

There used to be a luremaker somewhere around Cincinnati who made several different sizes of the same shaped flat crank whose name is 007.At one time Dixie Marine sold them but now they don't.Anyone here know of this line and where to find them?Those flats had a great fishcatching action.The weight was an inverted bullet sinker,and those suckers would kill 'em in gin clear water.If anyone can help out, thanx.

Blackjack, I had seen your lures long before I found this site,courtesy of the Bubbajack store via a search engine.Been meaning to reply to this thread since first reading it...As always great looking lures and very professional! I kinda wish you weren't so good though, because your shallow runners are so similar to my own. Again...great job!

During the extensive reading I have done on this site, I have heard mention of shelf life a few times.The coating that I use also has problems with it.Here's what cabinetmakers do for this problem.Simple as it may seem, as long as it is stored in a regular paint type can, just flip it upside-down.

For the purpose of having the absolute toughest wood body protection prior to finish(regardless of paint type),is it possible to substitute acetone and polycarbonate as a sealer,which would be applied like the virgin lacquer and solo cup combo.If so ,I wonder if after dilution is the integrity of those plastics are compromised?I know that there are guys here who could offer up their advice based on knowledge and/or experience.Thanx.

Try Jann's Netcraft.

Guess it's all in the system. If it were easy, the wife and kids would be doing it. Peace.

Blackjack...the fumes are unbearable without exhaust, I believe my fan is 1400 c.f.m. and it does the trick well. Riverman...I have plenty of pictures that are meant for advertising in the near future, but no way of posting one ... yet! I apply it by dipping. Scoop...When I say flashing I mean to spray a light coat of clear laquer followed by a heavier one... let dry before dipping into urethane.I would not recommend another paint type other than a solvent-base. To all...One reason that I don't spray this stuff is because of the complex solvent base.As I said earlier, once it starts to set, there is no stopping it. One has to be absolutely sure that it is stored airtight.Most urethanes cure by evaporation and will develop a "skin" on top, but not this stuff.Once it has been exposed to high enough humidity, it starts to cure throughout the batch, and there is no thinning it.All that happens is you create a larger glob of sh.. that you cannot use. This finish is impervious to water, it is intended for continual submersion.The more water it sees the better it likes it.

Woodie,I have been using this for about four years now without yellowing problems.This is not normal polyurethane.It is the only "thane" product that I have ever known not to yellow with age. Northrivergeek-thanx for what you found.

Jed,I mentioned the very slight amber because that's what it is-very slight.I believe the manufacturer claims clear,and although one is able to see a slight amber tone if viewed more than 1/4 inch or so thick,really it is nearly crystal clear in the thicknesses used for lures.I mean, after finish is complete, white is still white-if that helps any.The durability is unmatched in my experience. It will not shatter like epoxy or tear like some other types of clearcoat. I have been asked by many what I used in the past and have tried nearly everything under the sun,this stuff is it and I have eaten that cost because of the toughness of it.This is the only time that I have revealed what it is that I use now.So, for whatever thats worth,that is the best advice I can give for those looking for a single-component clear finish.This is not-I repeat-NOT normal polyurethane.

After researching this site,and witnessing tempers ,attitudes, and genuine desire to use an easier clearcoat that is tougher than epoxy,I would like to offer up an opinion.Moisture-cured urethane was designed to seal and protect wooden boats.After using it ,I have witnessed a very slight amber tone that does not increase with age because of the UV inhibitors present.This does not bother me.The toughness of this clearcoat is multiplied by using it as a sealer and topcoat and all clearcoats in between.There are inherent problems though with colors running if the lure is dipped without flashing over the paint. This type of finish requires some humidity also,because it uses the moisture in the air to cure properly.If the proper humidity level is maintained during finish,this stuff is unbelievably tough,and doesn't take long to cure-72 hrs.After 4hrs. it is tack-free.The biggest problems I have had were paint compatability and shelf-life.Lacquer paints don't pose a problem as long as the following urethane coat is applied over a decent flash coat of clear.The shelf life is not a problem if sealed and stored AIRTIGHT.Proper ventilation is a MUST during use.This stuff is tougher than Tarzan's feet and will handle expansion and contraction issues that epoxies sometimes have problems handling.It takes rip-rap abuse better than any other I have witnessed.The most wonderful thing is the fact that this finish was engineered for the abuse that a fisherman will give.I would not recommend spraying it because of the complex solvent mixture used as the base vehicle.I also have not been able to thin it once curing begins in the container.Oh, and it costs me about 45 dollars per quart.I haven't found a source that ships in 5 gallon increments. Famowood is the owner, Woodworker Supply is the source, and Duratuff is the namebrand.