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Posts posted by kahawai
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have been working on this for a while. not sure if its been done here before.
i make my wood lures mostly out of balsa with thru-wire and have always had problems doing jointed lures - the topcoat gets everything stuck togther.
was trying to figure out a way that i can paint and finish each segment indivually before linking them up.
pls see pics for a solution i am working on right now
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been toying around with an alternative painting method. would like to share cos i'm fairly pleased with the outcome.
the steps:
1. foil
2. clearcoat
3. art markers
4. solvent applied with cotton bud to create patterns
5. clearcoat.
simple!
posted a pic in the gallery. not sure if i am allowed to put it here!
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i'm coming back to lure making after a rather long break. right now i am working on a double prop(one in front and one at the rear) woodchopper style lure and need some advice on weighting.
does anyone have advice on the "best" way to ballast this type of lure to achieve maximum splash? i was thinking that the lure need to be lay horizontal with the hooks on(incl rear hook) with the props lying exactly on the water surface film. however my kitchen sink test shows that this results in a rather light lure. i was wondering if i am being a little too obsessed with getting the lure horizontal and getting the props to lie at the surface? basically my question is - would a heavier, tail heavy, prop under water lure throw up more splash, and fish better?
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i've done something similiar to this on balsa swimbaits.
a bit finicky for smaller lures though.
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hi matthew,
I've got some lure making experience and i'm in singapore. pm me, we can exchange email/numbers if you'd like to chat.
Peter
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HOLY GOD! How did u accomplish this?
the scales are 3d which means the direction of the spraying matters.
1. spray white.
2. spray flourescent orange.
3. spray black from the front(nose) and top of the lure.
4. thin layer of clearcoat
5. use a gel ink pen and individually outline and hatch the gold lines.- took me a while!
6. use a cotton bud and water to cleanup/ touch up/ smudge/smear where needed.
7. final clear coat.
cheers
peter
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hi,
thanks for the kind words. will try to answer your questions. but take note that my materials are bought mainly from the UK where i was living...
1. a firm silicon rubber - RTV101
2. smoothon's foam-it 15 or us composites' 16lb foam. have also used another brand which i can't remember the name of.
3. depends on which lures in my gallery you're referring to. assuming its the foil you're looking at- its insulation foil from the hardware store, no particular brand. have also tried kitchen aluminium foil with spray adhesive, but i much prefer the insulation foil.
4. i use rattle cans then pentel gel ink pens(& saliva) to get more detail and highlights.
http://www.pentel.co.uk/catalogue/product.asp?func=show&id=3869&did=5. depending on the colour scheme, sometimes i need to clearcoat over paint, then paint on another colour(s). i find this allows me to contol the colours better and to do detail work with thinner/solvent and a cotton bud, or tooth pick, as the clear protects the colour below.
5. mostly devcon 2t, sometimes etex. brushed.
so far i've made about 30 odd lures from 1 mould and it's still ok
hope this helps!
cheers,
peter
WOW, those fish look great! So help a guy out a little. You first carve a detailed bait, " A Master" The you use the master to make a mold and then remove the master from the mold. Then you pour in some product and let it sit and cure. Then remove it and wrap it with? and then you add some paint. Some of the questions I have are the following if you don't mind.
1. What mold material and brand?
2. What cast material and brand?
3. What do you wrap with and what brand?
4. What kind of paints over the wrap and brand?
5. And last thing, what kind of clear coat and brand, sprayed or brushed?
I would love to try and make one of my baits with your process and see what I could come up with. How many baits can you make from one mold?
Sorry about all the questions, but it looks like you have figured some methods out that look GREAT!
Thanks
Rich
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hi,
i've found etex needs you to be more accurate with the measuring. measuring cups are ok but syringes work better for small amounts. d2t is more forgiving with measuring and is what i find myself using more often. i coat only 1 or 2 lures at a time so i only mix a small amount. With d2t i just measure with disposable plastic spoons. eg 2 spoonfuls of each part can do about 1 6 inch lure.
tight lines.
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made a pike type lure years ago (2005 actually) that swam nicely so here's my 2 cents worth , no real logic here, just what i did and it happened to work-
head needs to be wide as it is already tapered from the side.
first segment should be longest, last segment shortest.
weigh all segments so that it sinks horizontally
tail segment needs to be shorter and much more tapered(thinner)
line tie from below/angled down.
a pic shown here for reference, a few more in my album.
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what kind of foam do u use? ive never heard of a foam u can pour into molds.
i use a high density 2 part expanding foam or 16lb foam. its kind of "old fashioned" round here. its not the moset user friendly stuff, it can bubble and the density varies slightly from lure to lure. takes some weighing down too. has its advantage though- its fairly cheap.
do a search on here for "16lb foam" or "foam-it 15"
cheers
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very very nice action on that lure! looks just like a jack pike.
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I have been trying to find a company that makes cardboard style lure boxes like what the old Creek Chub and other antique lures would have been in. I am not looking for old boxes. Just looking for some place to get some made up for my lures. Just looking for that style of box. I am wanting to do a numbered collector series for my lures and thought having a small box printed would really make it nice. If anyone has any info on this I would really appreciate it. Thank you.
i am looking for the exact same thing too! so far i have made my own boxes, but thats been for 3 lures only. it is time consuming.
would appreciate it if someone out there has some suggestions....
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DuDe!!!!! those are some sweeeeeeeet!!!! looking baits you got share how you do the scales
Hey thanks! I carved the scales on the master out of balsa, then made a mold. lures are cast in foam, foiled over, then painted, and clear coated.
cheers!
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just completed some lures from an old mold, which i will be displaying since they are a little to big for the fish round here.
looked high and low for suitable boxes but couldn't find any. so i decided to make some boxes out of basswood and balsa to put them in.
Wondering if any of you guys make lures to show and/or collect and if so what type of boxes do you use?
cheers!
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great to know i am not alone in my agony! I fish from shore and i have not found any effective lure retriever apart from me getting very wet. (sometimes slipping, losing glasses, losing footwear etc... but thats another story)
losing a homemade is especially painful when
1. its a new model/finish/paintjob type that you have spent ages working on.
2. its an old favourite that swims with a special inexplicable "eat me" flavour. no matter how closely i replicate my lures there are some which simply are "special" or have history.
another general question - is there a tendency for us to make surface/shallow lures, and use shop bought models for deeper/bottom models?
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just lost a recently completed lure to a snag.....OUCH! felt a million times worse than losing a store bought lure. how many of you lose your homemade baits? and how frequently? especially those who fish snaggy areas or make bottom hugging or sinking lures? how do you cope? counselling?
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see gingermojo lures at
Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket
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thanks guys for the replies. its been truly useful stuff.
i think i'm gonna give bondo a try... if i can find the stuff in this part of the world.
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Where do I get the foil and fins to try on my wooden muskie lures?
Terry
i use adhesive insulation foil from the hardware shop. the fins on my lures are drawn/etched into the foil and then painted. i haven't tried those wonderful looking micro fibettes fins yet, but am keen to do so at some time...
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see my gingermojo lures
Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket
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hi,
what do you all use to seal the holes that you put the lead in? wood filler(what kind)? epoxy? or something else? i've used both in the past but am wondering if there is a more precise way to be sure that the filler doesn't affect the weight of the lure(esp small lures)- ideally something that is neutrally buoyant. i also have worries that wood filler doesn't bond to the lure lead well, and can take a bit of sculpting too. if i have a lure with a rounded belly and i drill out a couple of holes, the filler should be able to not only cover the holes but also be able to be shaped to give it a seamless round belly.
thanks!
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see my gingermojo lures at
Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket
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great action! i was waiting for an explosive surface strike.
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looks like you have the makings of a great bait there!
you better watch the lead pouring though, hot molten lead can't be good for you! i use strips of lead which i cut up. i find its easier to fine tune the weight this way too.
why are you calling it the green crack?
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thanks all!
pete,d2t coming off in chunks? i have not had that happen before. on the couple of fully foiled baits i have done, i spray a thin layer of clear acrylic to seal the text and fin colours in before applying the top coat. now i wonder if that helps to hold the d2t. also the 2 lures have scale texture on the foil, so that may help the d2t hold too.
husky, its good to be back! work doesn't allow me to spend as much time on the lures as i'd like nowadays. I learnt all my stuff from here! so you have to take some of the credit.
tight lines.
Thru Wire Hinge
in Hard Baits
Posted
thanks for the feedback & suggestions.
the lure swims well and i'm happy with the joint. its a configuration of same orientation overlapping wire eyes with a stainless steel screw acting as a pin. i could put the lure together to test it, then take it out of the water, take out the screw and foil each segment seperaterly. haven't had the time to paint it up yet.
for the scales - its carved in the balsa, sealed, then foiled over.