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I ordered 4 molds last week, received them yesterday. Also, I received an email yesterday from Rupert with quotes on 3 different multi-cavity molds that I am going to order. I have found their service to always be excellent. I know that they are busier than a cat covering up, try calling Rupert direct.

I'm wondering about the clearance on the new ones. Looks like less in the pictures that I saw.

I am running the Mini Shooting Star and just added the base unit with the pids built in. They are a constant +/- 2 degrees variation right out of the box, I didn't have to adjust anything. I usually run 2 lbs. of plastisol in each pot and heat in the pots. I haven't timed how long it takes to get the plastic up to temperature, but by the time I get my molds in place, my gloves found, and clamps rounded up, ( yep, I'm not real organized ) it is just about ready. I was running one of the Presto Shooting Stars and It is now in the minnow barn and is only there because I still use a Presto for open pour molds, so I have a lot of spare parts. As far as the vent tubes you saw on the web, they are no longer using these. I agree with Dave, it isn't perfect, but it is way ahead of anything else that I have used.

What type of platisol are you using? Soft will require less heat than Medium, Medium less than Hard. The plastic that I use will go through the chemical change at about 330 degrees and shoots great as low as 295, but like a said, this varies with brands and hardness.

The process that works for me and the plasitol that I use: I heat the plastic in the pots, I set the pids to 350 degrees and turn on the stirrers and the heat units. When the temperature hits 350 the units will shut off and the temperature will drop to about 346 and they turn on again. When they reach 350 again I then lower the setting on the pids to 298 degrees. When the temperature drops to about 330 I will start rolling the plastic by pulling plastic into the injector and pushing it back into the pots, this probably isn't necessary but I feel like it might keep the temperature more consistent through out the pots. I make a light of light colored baits and almost never have any scorching of the plastic as long as I get the run done in a timely manner. I am sure there are a lot of different approaches and you have the find the one that works for you and your plasitol.

I use Eagle Claw L3052

Has anyone used CSI Seal Coat for a clear coat? I am curious because I use it on jig heads and I would like to try the Copic system if I can stay with this sealer.

After removing the cooled plastic I heat my pots to about 150 degrees and using air, I blow back through the ports. This removes most of the plastic. I then run a 22 caliber wire brush through all of the ports that I can. When I start the next color I pull a small amount of plastic into the injector and discard it.

I can usually make my air brush splatter, of course, it is never on purpose!

The mini Shooting Star from Ultra Molds have very accurate heat control units. Which injector are you using? I ask because I have experienced problems with the 3 to 1 injector but get great results from the 1 to 1 and the 2 to 1.

The popping sound you are hearing is probably the metal pot contracting when it reaches temperature and the element turns off.

I ask every fish I catch on watermelon/red why they bit it. They are just like tournament fishermen, they won't say a word!

I make the smaller craw and I really like it. In fact, I caught a nice limit of Smallies last Wednesday using it!

You comfirmed what I was thinking, I always top off the sprue but was only holding pressure for a 5 count. Also, I may be injecting too fast. Thanks!

I'm not a rookie but I am having the same problem with a new set of 4" stick molds. It is not air in the injector and I thought at first it might be a vent problem but it is occurring in random cavities and not the same mold every time. It has to be something I am doing to cause it but so far I haven't corrected the problem.