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mark berrisford

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About mark berrisford

  • Birthday 11/15/1968

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    http://lures.mysite.orange.co.uk/ http://m29-piker.blogspot.com/

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  1. i've got both and i'd go for the eclipse everytime a much more solid feeling brush,regarding detail they'll both everything you need lure wise especially if your starting out but the eclipse is a much nicer brush
  2. phil that sheds way to tidy,mine looks like a bombs gone off and so does my garage for that matter
  3. i use a revolution with a 0.5mm tip for base coats and spraying clearcoat and the eclipse with a 0.35mm tip for the details etc.for me the eclipse is the much better brush and is a lot more solid feeling than the revolution
  4. when i used sharpies or similar pens i foungd signing between layers of topcoats gave a better result than signing the bait before topcoating but you still got the odd one that run. nowadays i use eddings 8404 water based permanent markers and have never had one run in over 3 years
  5. i've got some and it's a spray on varnish thats compatible with e-tex ,don't fall into the trap that it's etex in a can
  6. here's a link to a thread from last monthdrying wheel in it's a picture of my wheel,the left hand wheel is fixed to the shaft and the right hand wheel slides and will take baits up to 12 inch's. I used to turn baits end over end but found that the epoxy would build up at the end furthest from the wheel so i now turn them belly over belly
  7. Heres a picture of my latest turner powered by microwave motors each wheel takes 6 lures upto 12 inches long and the light bulb is to add some heat as i'm now banished to the garage
  8. i've got a 25ltr (around 5 gallon i'd guess) tank on my compressor and would recommend that you get as big a tank as you can afford and if you can't afford it i'd wait till you can, i'd go for at least 50ltrs/10gallon
  9. As was mentioned earlier when makeing jointed baits i also try not to have sharp edges and when epoxying i do the bait in 2 halves and instead of putting it on the wheel to cure i hold the baits in mole grips and turn the baits by hand this way i can control the e-tex so ensuring i get a good coat around the v joint area especially on the female side of the joint. You don't have to turn constantly every 20 minutes or so is fine spome will drip off but you can get a thicker coat in the areas you want it
  10. if you don't soak the bait first you'll get airbubbles coming out and ruining the coat's your trying to build up at least thats what happens in my experience with hardwood's for pike lures.You could try the soaking before you glue the halves together as it's the acetone/thinners thats dissolving the glue then after you've glued the halves dip then lure
  11. Had to go out this morning in the middle of coating some lures and remembering this post stuck the e-tex in the fridge till i came back,it was still usable 1/2 hour later and went on really well-thank's
  12. i've had that happen on occasions and it's been down to the body's not being sealed correctly
  13. If the board is very bouyant you'll need a lot of lead which is a pain as pete says,being from europe we use different woods than you guys in the states but for most of my gliders i use beech which doesn't need to much lead,i'd guess an equivalent wood would be maple or cherry,most gliders are weighted at either end about an inch in,you can weight it centrally with one weight but i find it a pain to get right to be honest.
  14. i have some and it has a yellow tinge to it, i don't use it for topcoats though.When i first started i used some of the five minute stuff for topcoats but when it got damp it went soft and peeled off
  15. try topcoating one of the lures then you can practice on it and if its messed up you can wipe it off,if your happy with it put another topcoat on and your done!!!
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