Richard Prager
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Posts posted by Richard Prager
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On 8/30/2017 at 11:58 PM, Dink Mendez said:
I'm having trouble looking for a Ron E BEE ----Baby Pig Crankbait
I'm not worried about color or condition. I'm need some for my collection
I was also told there is a tackle store that sell a similar version or a reproduction of the crankbaits, some where in Kentucky maybe or Carolinas
Also, if and members that make them and are similar in action and shape I would like to purchase a couple of them. tHANKS
You might have some luck with this guy...He worked/learned from Ron E Bee for 10 years
http://www.bradwiegmann.com/lures/hand-crafted/229-flat-sided-balsa-wood-custom-crankbaits.html
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2 hours ago, fshng2 said:
Suggestion: Post a picture with length and weight
Not everyone is familiar with them but may know of a suitable replacement.
It's what the 1.5DD is to the 1.5
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On 7/12/2017 at 5:12 PM, Musky Glenn said:
The best gold I have found is spraying Createx sunrise transparent over silver foil. When the hair dryer hits it and it starts drying there is a drastic change from yellow to a briliant gold color. Good luck.
I misted the Createx Sunrise Yellow as well over the silver foil on the top. With the bottom bait, I misted Polytranspar Medium Green Bass over Createx Pearl Pineapple over the same silver foil....the top was misted over white stripes and the bottom has the black stripes over the misting. You can see how different colors under, over and the overspray as well can give different looks. Even the amount misted. I don't think you can make any two exactly alike if you tried. I have never yellow like BobP used but if he says it works....it works! There seems to be an endless way to achieve the same or similar results and variations of by layering colors...
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They were the only vendor that ever carried them.
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Dudley hasn't restocked in a couple of years really...He's making swim baits
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MTG76OEMBN KVD MTL POINT, 2X-SHORT SHANK, 1X-STRONG TREBLE BLACK NICKEL I've been using size 2 on 1.5 and larger....size 4 on smaller blanks from Dinger and other vendors for a few years without any complaints...
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Are these for retail store display or shipping? Ever think about putting a business card and the crank in a worm bag? Thick enough so the hooks don't poke through and the card they could stick in their wallet. Or a magnetic card? When I buy a crank, I open it up and toss the clamshell along with your info because it just doesn't fit anywhere....Clam shells are best for display.. Just a thought
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7 hours ago, Musky Glenn said:
Mr. Prager, I apologize for my arrogant attitude and was mainly being sarcastic concerning buying another fishing rod. I hope your health improves so you can get back to those tournaments. Good luck.
None necessary...I didn't look at it that way at all....but I thank you for your concern. The only tourneys I fish is my monthly club tourneys...we average 1/2 dozen boats or so. That's about the max amount of people that are willing to tolerate me!
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19 hours ago, Musky Glenn said:
I use water based paints and Bob Smith epoxy which have no odor, so I took the breath cool system money and bought another fishing rod. lol
Just because it has no or little odor doesn't mean it's ok to to breathe it in. Nobody is more stubborn than me. I poured plastics for years without proper ventilation and designed ,made and polished jewelry breathing in gold and silver dust with the same mindset. Even with the fresh air system, I tend not to walk over and flip the switch just for one or two quick colors. I also have a paint booth with exhaust, but when you're coating a dozen lures in Createx White, the particles are just floating around and being breathed in. Well, I'm not painting this week because I'm sitting here with the oxygen on 24/7 since last Tuesday evening and needless to say I did not fish the Saturday night club tourney. I do use it as much as possible and always when clear coating because my kids need a father. For the first time in my life, if someone asked me if I could do it all over, would I do anything different....I would say yes! Smoking for 40 years gave me the Emphysema..so much for being bullet proof. I have nobody to blame but myself and do what I can to protect what lung capacity (30+total%) but still fall short. Not looking for feedback or any sympathy but passing along the knowledge I've acquired from first hand experience as well as recommendation from those that came before me...
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I've been using the BSI 30 Minute Slow Cure Epoxy for about 6 years. I love it! I first tried the 20 minute Finish Cure and like Ayetti states you do get more working time maybe 6 baits than the 30 minute slow cure, but I find it requires 2 coats. It's very forgiving as far as mixing as Musky Glenn said. I squeeze a 5 count of each in a plastic medicinal cup. Hit it for 10-15 seconds with a drill using a wire from a spinnerbait with the end bent at 90 degrees. I dip the epoxy brush in DA poured into a glass shot glass type of thing. Mix it AFTER mixing the 2 parts and all bubbles disperse immediately. I do 2-3 baits per batch but never dip the brush in the DA after the first bait. I found that dipping it in the DA with epoxy on the brush contaminates it and I would end up with little bits of epoxy that look like bubbles in the finished bait. The DA does not compromise the integrity of the finish at all. The only reason I use it is to disperse the bubbles. I also find that humidity is key. When I cleared out side in the garage I had about 75% success rate. Inside 99.9%. I warm the bottles with the heat gun to about room temp, I guess just to get it to flow better out of the bottle. The RC guys have been using this for like 10K years....One plus over D2T is that if you are doing any lipless with sharp corners, I also remove the tape from the bills before clearing. I will do them as baits 2 and 3 once the BSI starts to thicken. It will enable you to do sharp edges without it pulling away. Also, whatever I'm clearing, I will hit with some color shift paint or top coat prior to clear coating...anything really to cover any oils that would normally cause the epoxy not to cover from contamination. I'm sure there are other clears like dipping KBS or whatever, but because of lung issues I find this allows me to keep breathing....I also use the Breathe Cool Fresh Air System which pumps air from another room into my mask Hope this helps....because of health issues I have found this to work best for me. It doesn't peel, crack or flake and takes a beating!
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You'll never have to buy another brush...watch the tip size. Like BobP says .035 I have seen some with .03 which might be more work in having to thin a bunch of colors.....parts are readily accessible which is just another plus!
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I had the same problem with 5 guns. Called Iwata and he told me to put just a little oil on it. That didn't work. This is the guy that does the repairs along with another woman. I ended up sending them to him. My brushes ranged in age from 6 months to 6 years. They normally charge $25 plus any parts.....He sent back all 5 and didn't charge a penny. I've only used one of the 5 he cleaned and after an hour it did the same thing. I haven't tried the others as long as the one I'm using works fine.......He also said not to use Createx Restorer at all and not the soak the gun. He has a demo on You Tube and uses Q-tips and acetone. I was always told never to use anything that can cause fibers to get in there. I do use the dental picks and they work well. He seems to be a little......I can't think of a word to describe him...very nice guy. I'm almost afraid to try the other 4 airbrushes he repaired. Kirk is the head honcho over at Iwata. You be the judge.
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I remember reading a while back that dipping does not make for an evenly spread coat. I use a .050 tip when base coating my baits.
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1 hour ago, DaleSW said:
I hang mine with no trouble. The drip off is the only issue for me. I made a tree like hanger for multiple baits and I put a pane under it. The pan is no more then a large aluminum cooking pan that you buy for one time use.
Dale
Thanks for posting, Dale....much appreciated! Do you just watch until it stops dripping and just wipe the last drop off the rear hook hanger or another way? Do I need to thin it? Thanks again!
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Thank you, 21xdc!
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For those of you using KBS Diamond Clear.....can you dip the entire crank bait and hang or does it have to be put on the turner? I want to try something that can do this. Thank you....
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I use Bass Mafia Body Bag Has a zipper, handle and also comes with a shoulder strap.....I'm 1/2 way through year 2 with it. TW carries them
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11 hours ago, MonteSS said:
I usually use Createx and as you know each color is different in thickness. I thin with water. Should I be using something else?
I remove the tip and nozzle and wipe the tip of the needle to clean after a session. Do I need to take the needle out?
I usually spray 18-20 psi. Any lower and it tends to spit.
I really need to see someone more experienced paint with the gun closer and less pressure. I know I am pretty heavy handed.
ty
I do that after every color change. Takes 20 seconds..Yes, you have to pull the needle to get the paint off.
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I've used that in the past and really needed 2 coats with the Finish Cure. Although you get more working time than with D2T and BSI epoxy, it needs 2 coats. I switched to the BSI 30 minute slow cure 5 years ago and that's all I use. I don't even measure it. I squeeze a 5 count of each in the plastic cup and mix just like you do with the drill for about 15 seconds....dip the brush in DA and all bubbles disperse. Humidity is key for me and ready to put hooks on in 24 hours. It also does not pull away from edges as D2T is known to do.
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Thank you!
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Hey airbrush and lure folks,I've been looking for a lacquer base Chartreuse for a specific job.Any leads or suggestions? This is for a friend of mine who makes custom trophies...Thanks on advance!
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Money paid in full before you pick up the airbrush......ESPECIALLY WITH FRIENDS (just shoot them a PayPal invoice and it' their move)......they are the worst because you'll feel guilty chasing them for the money and end up eating it and acquiring a resentment....
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Polytranspar makes a water based Blue Shimmer
4 hours ago, Hughesy said:Nunnable
I designed that color for Bass Pro Shops. It goes like this. 1. cover white entire lure. 2. chrome pearlescent entire lure. 3. scale back with black. 4.Chartreuse stripe 5. cover entire lure with blue glimmer. 5. Black dot. I shoot lacquer so you will have to find these paints in water base . I'm sure the blue glimmer is made in water base. It turns the black back blue, but just puts a blue sheen on the rest of the lure.
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I go over the seams with scotch brite, wipe of the dust with a soft brush and paint. If the blank comes with a taped lip, I remove it and tape it myself. Last thing I want is to paint a bait only to find out the lip is damaged
Floater bubbles/micro balloons
in Hard Baits
Posted
Why don't you just give Kim a call at Lurecraft?
She'll tell you