Fishful Thinking

For motor oil I use the following in 4oz of plastic. 10 drops Do It X2 Chartreuse 4 drops Do It X2 Purple 2 drops Do It X2 Watermelon.

Do you use any scent on your baits? If you are using a scent that is water based it will interact with the plastic and the salt to affect your colors. Just a thought.

Here's a tip for those guys that use the small aluminum Lure Craft Pouring Pans. Once the amount of plastic in the pans gets low the pans become somewhat unstable and easy to tip over. Take a rather large lead split shot and crimp it on the rim of the pan directly opposite from the handle. This helps to counter balance the pan and you will have substantially fewer accidents.

Great tips guys. Thanks. I will try all of these tips and report back with the results. Thanks again.

Does anyone have a solution for keeping chartreuse from bleeding. I recently poured some baits using smoke with black flake, then chartreuse with white pearl as a vein and a flat belly of white pearl. Initially, the worms looked great but after one week the chartreuse bled into the belly of white pearl and all of the detail was lost. I have experimented with adding heat stabilizer in various concentration but not go. The chartreuse still bled. Any suggestions? I am using Lure Craft's Chartreuse and I have the same problem with Del's Chartreuse.

Yellow stone works great for two piece molds. I have made Senko molds with yellow stone for years. Take a small tupperware container and pour about a half an inch of yellow stone into the container. Lay as many senkos or whatever you are copying into the stone and press them so that they are buried halfway into the stone. Lay a couple of small marbles into the wet stone as well. These will be used for indexing later. Allow this to set up completely. You can begin working with it in about 15 minutes. Remove the marbles. Now paint on a layer of tin foil substitute with a small hobby paintbrush. Your dentist friend will know what tin foil substitute is. Now pour another half inch of yellow stone on top of your embedded Senkos and allow that to set. After allowing about 30 minutes for set time, remove the molds from the tupperware container and seperate the two halves by placing a blunt knife along the seam and tapping gently with a hammer. You now have two halves to work with that are easily indexed where the marbles once were placed. Identify where you want to pour down each of the Senkos with your plastic and use a hack saw to cut across the top of your mold. If you take a tapered drill bit or stone you can create resivours on top of each Senko that will aid in reducing suck back voids. Coat your molds with dilluted epoxy and you are ready to pour up some baits. Good luck and have fun.

I have tried the Poly Vinyl Siloxanes on my molds and they work great but they are way too costly. The silicone impression material works well but again is very expensive. Where your dentist friend can really do you some favors is with yellow stone. He will know what that means. Especially if he has a vacuum mixer. I make lots of molds with yellow stone and it is a very good and inexpensive material. My staff gets a little bent out of shape when I mess up the lab with pouring molds for worms. Oh well.