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auburn fisheries dude

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  1. I think this concept will work, having the holes on the side like that, low pressure passing over the holes will pull water through the front or main hole. Think of the air conditioning in a car, when the vents are closed, you get average air flow, but once you crack open the sun roof, it feels like air is shooting out at you. Oh BTW, where is your ballast? i'm having trouble locating it in the rattle trap i am casting, but most agreed that it should be low and towards the nose
  2. Thanks so much, it looks liek the ballasts are as low on the body as possible, plus the air chambers will give it even more nose dive. In the rattle trap there is 4X more ballast weight than mine in the nose alone!
  3. Thanks, and its not even painted yet ...... i aint gonna lie though, its actually a BPS XPS series crankbait, so i'll buy a couple of them friday and open one up!! The resin is just this clear casting resin i got at Hobby Lobby, comes is a tin. i added the yellow transparent color to it also. It poured well but be in mind that i am not using microbubbles either. Cheers!
  4. It's a lipless crankbait, i tested to see whether it would swim correctly, but it wanted to swim sideways so much it would reach the surface on a slow retrieve. looking at the pics, would you say it was caused by my ballast position. Is it too high, too long, and not close enough to the nose of the lure? i really need some help pics: ballast is 1/32 oz too light? http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9486/dscn0583.jpg http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/545/dscn0587.jpg
  5. It's better to have a thru wire because you need to keep the ballast centered and attached to something, but they supply line ties and hook points, figure 8 line ties, for use with unglued crankbait bodies, i'm sure you can get away with those for the line ties and rear hook, but the center needs to hold the ballast weight. I dunno with top water if the hooks are heavy enough to keep the lure upright, so you may not need a ballast, if you are casting with plastic. Let some more experienced makers give you an answer b/c i hardly know anything
  6. thanks brah! i will contact the fellow if he is willing to share his 'secret'
  7. [noparse]lol, some fish just get confused http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/279/dscn0543xj6.jpg http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/299/dscn0544bj9.jpg http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/2022/dscn0546ma3.jpg that crappie was still alive too [/noparse] edit: pics are too big
  8. wow, wish i could do that, but meh, bluegill don't look like that unless they are too big for bass to eat (serious)
  9. what section did you find that stuff in? i looked around the model hobby painting section where all the airbrush stuff is but didn't see any resin...
  10. I dont see anything on Aluminite's site that says "Super Plastic" you need to be more specific, is it the Amazing Casting Resin? I am looking at the Aluminite Clear, but the viscosity is 400cps, have you ever tried any casting resin with that high of a viscosity?
  11. and the elastomer used for the tail section? or know any elastomers with the same characteristics? thanks
  12. can the creator of the RTV mold tutorial repost it on a forum or something, i really am counting on using it in the next couple weeks
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