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doomdart

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Everything posted by doomdart

  1. I would say you used the wide gap comb method over the scale on the top two photos, complete with bluegill style dot. To quote the Kool Aid man, OH YEAH! For sure you should start carving them up.
  2. Perhaps I should leave this for those who really know, but anyway: I guess I hadn't read enough to know it would work with acetone. Only aware of virgin lacquer thinner solution with SOLO cup method. And I totally agree with BobP that there are better choices for clearcoating.
  3. vodkaman, I feel your pain. Please reassure us that you did not have a witness present.
  4. Nova, I think you are right - acrylic. M-F Limit Corporation used to sell some a long time ago made from that type of material if I'm not mistaken.
  5. doomdart

    Lexan

    Split shot will work fine for weighting the bait. Drill and drop, glue it in place. If you're doing a thru-wire bait, make your lead holes on the inside of both halves near the bottom of the belly while the body is split. That way you don't have to worry about filling a drill hole when you reassemble the halves with lead inside. There was another recent thread discussing filling the drilled hole so that it is not noticeable.
  6. I heard Nova got bored one day and made a mold of an acorn so he could try to catch a squirrel, LOL.
  7. You may just try to touch up the chipped spot with some markers and recoat it. Some of the "catchers" versus "duds" look the same, but perform differently. You might have to make a few more before you get one to work as well as the one you chipped. But that's half the fun, right? Otherwise, I'd say just build a little frame box for it, and hang it in the living room! I love reading posts like this one, because you just know he can't stop now.
  8. Yeah, Rustimus, nothing wrong with those. Good job. I like the darker one (bottom), but might like it better with a clear bill.
  9. I have done both with and without sanding the base Devcon coat, and have not noticed much difference either way. However, the alcohol wipe definitely will remove dust/oils, etc. from handling. Both Dean and Ranger are right that light sanding will be invisible through the second coat, so I can't argue with sanding. Might help even everything out and surely will not hurt the bond between coats.
  10. No, he's already been very busy. kb, you're sure to have some winners there.
  11. doomdart

    Black eye foil

    One of my first attempts at foil.
  12. Thanks, jp...they both sound like galaxies on Star Trek, LOL. Dipping sure would be nice, and that must be why many have gone to Fishermun's.
  13. You should dip a nail tip into your paint, kind of scrawl a red gill on that thing a little thick (little drops of paint), then blow plain air from the nose of the bait toward the tail. I think that would give you a nice blood trail splatter down the side of the bait. Or spray a thick red gill with stencil and do whatever you did on the eye toward the tail. I'm thinking that splatter trail would look excellent behind a gill. I like the scale pattern on the last one.
  14. I probably wouldn't bother with the scales either, but some faint vertical browns or tans are good. Go very light on the vertical bars or stripes or you will ruin it. You can use a very wide gap comb for a stencil for spraying. I would do the belly, then sides, then vertical stripes, then back.
  15. spare is right, you should look into the various foil options, then paint your foil. Expect to mess a few (or more if you're like me) up first. Takes some time to learn the foil method, then you have to adjust your painting methods as well. But well worth the time spent to learn.
  16. Thanks, FF. Glad you like it. Means a lot considering all the great ones you've shown. Maybe I sold the Rusto short. Used it for sealing paint prior to Devcon (when only one Devcon coat is desired). Also used it to bleed paint over foil. Never tried it with multiple coats for topcoat. Might have to give that a shot. Thanks RM.
  17. OK, jp...I'll display my ignorance...what is Torginol?
  18. The Rustoleum does work pretty well to seal the paintjob, but doesn't do much for protection beyond that, IMO. You might also try thinning Devcon way down with alcohol before applying. This will allow you to spread it on very thin. Tip I picked up from a few good folks here. Curious, how does E-Tex compare to Devcon in this respect....the thickness of the coat and how much weight it can add? Never tried the stuff.
  19. Yep, paint type makes a big difference. With rattle cans often I will only wait a few seconds before a second color (long enough to pick up the second can and rattle it really good). But that's partly because I need them to blend better. Like BobP said, if you've got wet on wet you're more likely to accidentally screw it up before you get a good topcoat on.
  20. spare, I think they look great too. Personally I prefer the lip cut to be a little deeper just for added insurance, but that's just me. I think if you're epoxying in the lip, scuffing the unexposed lip surface first, it will be fine. They really look excellent, man.
  21. Yea, toaster oven for looks, but butane grill lighter for quickness. You can paint a lead head while on the boat if you want. Heat with grill lighter, swirl, let cool, then pass and swipe over the open flame. Not ideal, but quick and effective.
  22. Also, if you take a good look at a bluegill the next time you catch one, look at his pectoral fins. The ones around here have a black "dot" that surrounds the base of the fin. For a loose representation of a fin, you could try a dot there on bluegill pattern. That would certainly be easier than doing pec fin detail.
  23. Never made muskie lures, which is why I didn't offer advice the first time. I know for bass size baits, you can make your own wire bender by driving nails at strategic locations into wood. Snip the nail head off so you can lift and remove the wire form after bending. Use pliers to pull and bend the wire around the "posts" formed by the nail shaft. Like I said, don't know if muskie wire is too stiff for that approach. Good luck.
  24. That's a nifty idea. The only thing I worry is that by stopping the curing you might weaken the bond of paint to lead. I guess the curing in the oven helps that. Do you find that they any more likely to chip on rocks if you do it that way? I'm not saying it would be, but that is what I would assume.
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