doomdart

I really like the yellow one.

I think bassn1 has the key. You should try to clear the eye before the oven cure. You can bust the eye like he describes, or take a pair of flat jaw (needle nose) pliers and "skate" the outside curvature of the eye with a squeeze or two. It will break off the brittle paint. Then cure in the oven. On a few jigs I did this way that saw HEAVY use, the paint begain to peel around the base of the eye. But jigs take abuse and will chip after heavy use, so I would still recommend the bassn1 method along with the sharp edge flat jaw plier method.

Well, the burn looks sick. But what is more disturbing is the skin and hair around it. TMI........sorry for the pain.

You mean to tell me they end there? Just kiddin'....welcome.

I think that is a Brian's Bee crankbait? You could find out for sure at his website.

You might get a good action from the one to the right of the quarter (more rounded shape) with the right lip and weighting. Similar shape once produced a thumping lure for me, but sank like a stone.

Your lure is probably already catching fish, but do what BobP said. But I think you can get a cool blend on the back by doing the purple, and a light misting of brown (very light) on the crest of the back while the purple is still wet. Not enough to turn it brown, just to darken the purple there. This will blend well and give you yet another shade of blending on the dark purple to violet.

Right on, BobP. Try the #4's first. Float test, or better yet go cast a few times. Take a couple extra trebles a size up and down and change them at the water if you don't like the action.

You found the right site. Search the threads here to find answers to the basics. Then ask questions as you encounter problems. Answer questions when you can. Welcome and good luck.

Sometimes it seems the tacky problem can be helped by wiping the lure down with alcohol (denatured or rubbing), letting it air dry, then turning the lure by hand over a heat source (oven burner). If that doesn't fix the problem, then apply the second coat. Before stirring the epoxy to apply, eyeball it really well and make sure the pools are equal size. If one appears to be larger, just scrape a little off to the side. Once they look equal, then mix and apply.

Stone Coal, I like it. Very nice.

Husky, was this the same guy who posted under the username "Peter" before the crash? These lures are awesome; I think Peter put up a bluegill foamie on here that would at least qualify him as prince.

Use a forstner bit to drill a round flat bottom hole centered in the popper mouth. Then chuck a round burr bit in a drill. Clamp the bait body in a vice that has some rubber padding so the vice doesn't leave marks on the body. The forstner hole is a guide to "cradle" the burr bit so it won't skip off the popper mouth. Drill the mouth out with the burr bit, using a rotating motion to apply drilling pressure both downward and outward against the bottom and sides of the popper mouth. Finish with sandpaper smoothing. Done.

Yeah, on more rounded bodies sometimes the eyes don't want to stay put. After pressing them on, they will sometimes let loose and pull back on one edge. If it's not just hangin' off too far, try what fatfingers said. Let some epoxy flow over the eye and back behind where it is slightly peeling up. Then "build" the epoxy around the eye. Sometimes the peelers are the ones that look best after Devcon, for the reason fatfingers mentioned.

Lingerdog, check your pm.

Also, beware that most of the scorching starts at the bottom center of the Pyrex. Make darn sure you stir that part well. Try to lift it to the top, then stir some more. Especially if you are using glitter. Sometimes the glitter will settle to the bottom as the mix gets thinner from the heat. Then the scorching starts.

Simon, others have identified the Elmer's glue as PVA. Poly-vinyl-acetate or something like that. It is a white all-purpose glue, and can be found everywhere in the US. Kids use it in school for projects, etc. Elmer's is the brand here, not sure what it would be over there. Vodkaman can probably help you identify the comparable brand.

skeeter jones, I have used laquer spray over foiled and regular painted wood bodies. This was applied after the paint job but before the Devcon. Beware it can make certain types of paint run. I wouldn't try it on your favorite paint job, maybe experiment on a scrap first. Not really sure how it will work on a plastic type lure, and it might not have the same effect on all types of plastics. Actually, I found it useful for helping create a nice effect on foil, as it caused the foil wrinkles to shed paint which pooled in the lower areas in the foil. Once it dried, I didn't have a hard time getting a good Devcon on top. I use rattle cans, and the laquer spray was also rattle style. You can find it at wally world or other places. The one I tried was Rustoleum brand, clear laquer spray in a greenish can. When you say "final" coat, I'm not sure if you're talking about something applied between two coats of epoxy, or before the only Devcon (and therefore final) topcoat. I don't think you'd need anything between two coats of Devcon. If you have small scratches on a first coat, the second coat should fill them in and it will look fine. My $0.02.

Nova, you're right about the Elmer's method being much easier. Guys, if you haven't tried it you should. Hassle free and better. Thanks longhorn. I was mainly talking about protecting against accidental breakage. I think Fish N Fool's idea is good....I had considered gluing it down to a thin piece of ply. The stuff in the auto store was some type of sprayable undercoating in a can. If I recall it produced a rubberized finish that I thought would be good to prevent slippage on a metal table, etc. Haven't dropped one yet, but there's a first time for everything.

Yes, a very small bead across the lip joint area is desirable. The "pushing" is the best way to describe it. You can use the brush as mentioned. I find it easier for me to use a bent wire, but the idea is the same.

Hey guys, curious what if anything you do to protect your POP molds. I've noticed they can be brittle. Obviously you need to seal the cavities for a good pour, but is it advisable to go the extra mile to seal the entire outer surface once it is fully cured? Probably not worth the time on some molds, but on the good ones perhaps a good coat of Devcon or some type of rubberized coating would help prevent accidental breakage. I saw some spray-on coating in an auto store that might provide some cushioning to the bottom of the mold. Whaddya think? Sorry if this question has been posted a million times. Connection is slow now, so thread search is iffy.

I saw some small tubes in an auto store...advance auto I think. Don't know how much you need.

longhorn, thanks for sharing that about the Elmer's (PVA). Folks, it does work as advertised. Don't get stainable wood glue, of course. It contains wood fibers that will just get in the way.

You can find the same type of tubing at pet stores. It's what they use to pump air into the fish tanks.

Got a chuckle from that, Dean.