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doomdart

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Everything posted by doomdart

  1. It's not just theory, but like I said it would be next to impossible for me to post a pic right now. Dean and Nathan, check pm.
  2. Sorry if that is bad forum form, but if it were easier for me to post pictures, you'd probably see more than the few that have been posted by me. Anyway I could explain it in words, and already have to a few...
  3. Dean, did you edit that post? I just reread the entire thing from start to finish, and do not remember that post in the original flow of discussion. I seriously doubt you need any advice on ways to joint a bait with sevenstrand, but if so pm me.
  4. I wouldn't balk at $1 a pair either, but the ones I saw a couple of years ago sold for $0.79 for six pieces (three pair). They were produced (or at least marketed by) Bel Tree Corporation. I don't have a website, but the package stated the following: Bel Tree, Inc. Strongsville, OH 44136 MADE IN CHINA Bel Tree Corporation (A Sunzusei of Japan Product)
  5. Depends how realistic you require. If you want realism, get the taxidermy style. If you want round pupil or maybe cat eye, you can sometimes find them at places like Michael's art stores, or places that sell doll making material. Yes, doll making material. Get ready for some strange looks if you find a specialty type store. The doll type eyes often have a "post" that extends behind the pupil that you would use to push into the doll eye sockets. When adapting one of those to baits, you can cut off the post or snip it off with clippers if it hinders your design. Also, with glass eyes, weight is a major consideration since they are way heavier than the type BobP mentioned. For that reason, eye placement is absolutely critical when using glass. Good luck.
  6. actionbaits, I'm trying to imagine what you're after and hope I'm not too far off the mark. Some guys on here have mentioned using the lead tape from golf pro shops (designed to add weight to a driver, etc.) to weight baits. Could such a product have a use in your application on the lip? You mentioned that you want a clear product...but maybe a carefully cut, placed, and top coated strip of tape would work?
  7. Both of you guys have done very professional jobs on your boats. Have you considered turning it into a business?
  8. Norcal, no disrespect at all intended here, but have you experienced a problem with split ring failure? I know it would be more likely where you live (due to the size of the fish), but this is not as much a problem here. I prefer to have a selection of sizes and weights. This allows float testing and fine-tuning. By adjusting hooks/rings up and down you can completely alter the action. You can also accidentally ruin the action.
  9. If the lip you want has a curved face, do a search on here for a post by the user "hazmail." You might find it enlightening, or it might fully explain what you're trying to do.
  10. doomdart

    bulk devcon?

    With Devcon, the ratio is essentially 1:1. At least the package says so. And you might try to tap the syringe a few times to get the "bubbles" to rise. 'Nuff said, there.
  11. In the thread BobP refers to about thinning Devcon with Iso 91% I think it was generally decided that maybe MEK is better. The Iso will work if you do it how BobP described....small drops at a time to your pool until it begins to move around how you want while you stir. Or acetone....but 91% will work. As far as the nicks in the screw eyes...there are some out of the bag, but the line tear I've seen is caused by the nicks marked into the surface of the eye from a pair of pliers, etc. Could have been caused while clearing out an epoxied eye or closing an open screw eye. Round jaw pliers will reduce that possibility. Also the line snap I experienced was on a very light mono line. With a tougher line like braid or other superline you probably wouldn't have the same issue.
  12. I have used toothpicks before for stirring/application and haven't noticed any difference in the bubble problem. Maybe Hoodaddy is talking about the popsicle type sticks....would not recommend those either. Now I use wire like Hoodaddy says, but also use the same wire to apply. Small curve bent in the end, use inside and outside curve to apply on any bait shape. Pointed wire tip for tight spaces. I haven't used brushes that often for this purpose, but suspect that it might be easier to add bubbles with a brush than a wire. Before you brush guys get angry, just realize I know that it can be applied perfectly either way.
  13. Nice feature for when you're fighting a fish in the shallows or in tight to cover, I'm sure!
  14. Read the sweatshirt..."this is what the greatest fisherman looks like." I like that....but what is that thing sprouting from your knuckle?
  15. The fish and baits look great, and so does that lake!
  16. Yep, the only thing you would worry about is water penetration that could split or otherwise ruin the bait. This will destroy the lure before a pullout ever could. Just make sure your topcoat is flawless and you should be set for anything that could hit your bait. Unless maybe you hook an alligator.
  17. What the others have said is all valid. I would add that you can use Elmer's glue or just about any wood glue to secure it. If you are using D2T or another good strong topcoat over the top you shouldn't see any problems.
  18. One question has nagged me since reading this....would the curved surface not present difficulties when it comes to lip slot? Are you using those in molded baits, or carved ones? I suppose you could cut the slot wider than normal, then use a product to fill the "air space".....but you would only have three contact points between the curved lip surface and the lip groove. I still think it would be possible to get a lip secure in that manner, but it seems like it would not be very easy. But nobody said this stuff is supposed to be easy.
  19. Pete, that's one of the coolest ideas I have seen here in a while. This sounds a little tricky, but I'm sure with practice it becomes fairly easy. Good work and special thanks for sharing.
  20. My apologies, I really don't mean to "hog" the thread, but just thought of something else. While clearing cured epoxy or other substance from the line tie eye, use extra caution. I recommend whoever wants to do it that way to buy a pair of round nose pliers. This will tend to scuff up the metal on the eye much less. I have seen a couple of baits that wanted to snap the line when tied on. Upon further inspection discovered that the culprit was a small burr of metal that had gone undetected. That little sliver was enough to slice the line under pressure.
  21. doomdart

    Black eye foil

    jake, thanks for checking it out, but I'm confused by your comment. The bait doesn't even have a diving lip. The hot lips is a diving bait. The only similarity I see is that they both have hooks on them.
  22. BobP, depending on the wood, you could also temporarily "pin" the two pieces in place with something like a sewing needle that is sharpened on both ends. It would leave a very small indentation when removed that should be easy to cover up and seal with your topcoat. Just a thought, but I do agree that with a segmented bait joined by wire, you would really want that extra seal around the joint.
  23. doomdart

    Foil Tape

    Hey, Pete, how did it work? Keep us posted, I'm curious to see which one worked best.
  24. BobP, you answered before I could. My only suggestion would be that you could use a standard finish nail instead of the buzz wire. If the head of the nail gets in the way, chop it off with snips.
  25. doomdart

    Death roll

    No apologies needed here. You are putting forth ideas for discussion. Look forward to diagrams if you have time to do it.
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