dampeoples

I bet he told you nobody would believe your story, so you decided to not even finish it, is that it?

I think you're making it too complicated. Why do you need NPT? What are you hooking it to? Then again, you never said what sort of setup you have on the compressor end. If it's a standard compressor, it's probably a 1/4 or 3/8, and they make an adapter, if it's an airbrush compressor, it's probably 1/8, and they make one for that as well. Another option is to use a quick connect system, especially if it's not a dedicated airbrush compressor, attach the male connector to the ab hose, the female to the compressor/regulator/hose, whatever you have there, and rock on.

Whatever you set the price at, make it fair to YOU. If you're selling a bag of baits lower than everyone else, think how great that'll be when you're up to 1AM every night filling orders, and hardly have enough left over after it's done to buy more materials, much less take your wife out to eat. If say, Swampbaits gets $5/bag, why can't you? Undercutting the price hurts everyone, and clearly shows you didn't do your homework! The advice given here is great, and resist the temptation to give great deals just to start out, you'll always be the 'cheap' guy, no matter what you do. Good luck!

Must be that time of the month I dropped a bait, then my composure fell on the carpet shortly after that, hehe.

You can use the heat gun, that's what I use. It is a LOT hotter than the hair drier, though, so keep it moving, and a little further away. I like to aim the heat gun in such a manner that it blows on my hand as well, at least for the final cure, keeps me more focused on just how hot it is.

Until the new line of brushes were advertised, Badger only advertised their brushes as fine, med or coarse, same for Paasche. The brush is a double action, which means that there is no separate adjustment for paint, both paint and air are controlled by the trigger.

He's not saying to not throw the ideas out there, he's saying to start a different thread with your idea, keep it out of the current discussion. Even though the idea may work, or is related, it clouds up the intent of the thread.

While the idea is sound, and you've obviously gotten it to work, but why mix paint systems? I use a water based base to cover the pearls as well as the sharpie to prevent the solvents from releasing it. Both Createx and Polytranspar offer a base and or a clear. As far as dipping, I let it drip back into the jar (I know, I know), then into a trash can. I have fished (and caught!) using DN lures as quickly as the next morning after clearing.

When reporting a problem, it's always helpful to give all the info you can. I've used both types of paint under DN, even together, without problems, but how did you apply it? What sort of other paint system/brand did you use? Were they repaints? How much time between coats? Was the bleeding through the clear? Transparent paints bleed, could it have been that? Couple of things with DN: 1 - Lures have to be DRY. Don't rush it. Paint on Monday, clear on Tuesday or Wednesday. 2 - How thick was your paint? Refer to #1 more paint? Clear on Thursday! 3 - Application method? I see you say two coats. How much time between coats? An hour? A day? I give a full day between coats if I use two. 4 - What were the ambient conditions? Like anything paint/clear related, warm and dry is the key.

Sorry, meant to say Enamel and Laquer don't play well together.

It's always the numbers with you man! What's up with that? I think you have made great points though, LaPala. Even though none of the site is open to folks that don't register, I think some might register to keep in touch/read, but never intended to participate. I registered long, long ago, and just read for a long time, using the site as reference for when I got stumped.

Enamel and primer don't go well together. Switch primers, or sand all the old paint off.

He's a 'master mind' alright, look how big that head of his is!!! Seriously, they are cool, Jim.

It depends on the paint, and the size of the pigments. I've tried to shoot everything through my smaller tip brushes, and end up just remembering what works with what brush. You can thin these paints, but the particle size will always be the same (speaking of pearls and such). Yeah, the flip flop paints are pretty big, as they use a funny shaped 'flake' to achieve this effect. They can be sprayed through a smaller brush, but will often spit when you don't want them to.

Panty hose!

You need to seal the wood before you paint it, as it's porous. The reason the finish is not smooth is the wood is soaking your coating up. Do a search for sealing baits for some ideas.

Either the gravity or the side feed, same idea, just the side feed doesn't have anything obstructing your view. One thing about the smaller tips; you really need to be on top of your paint mix, or you'll cause yourself more problems due to the tendency for it to clog.

Not with thinning epoxy, but why would you not seal with something a bit thinner that would soak into the lure to strengthen it, or even want to use the 5 minute? If it's a jointed lure, and the temps are fairly high, you probably won't be able to get a good even coating on the lure before it starts to set up, causing you to have to sand.

Badger is releasing a new set of brushes late this month, the Renegade series. They're aimed at the custom automotive market, so they have such things as teflon seals (making them solvent proof), and more detail oriented needle/nozzle combinations. The three in the new set are the Rage, which is a bottle fed, with a .33 tip, the Velocity, which is a 1/3 oz. gravity feed with a .21 tip, as well as the Spirit, a side feed with the same .21 tip. Each is under $100, and I've been reading about their warranties, which is 25 years, and they say that they'll fix it if you break it, even from stupid stuff like dropping it. I don't like the cut-away handle missing, the more I learn to control paint, the less I use it to blast a clog, but it's still nice to have, and keeps the tail end a bit more balanced. I asked Ken at Badger about that, and it's supposed to be balanced, there is a slimmer section to the brush in the handle. I've been an Iwata guy, but at the inflated price, I've started to search other brands as well, as there are a TON of folks here that prove every day that it's the guy holding the brush, not the brush that makes the paint do wonderful things. Well, I'll find out myself soon Gonna get a few different models/brands to check out as well. I know it goes against my general advice of buy what you can get parts for locally, but I have a good stock of brushes/parts now, and while one of my new purchases may become my new favorite, or workhorse, I'll be sure to stock up, nothing like a bent needle to ruin the workflow!

The extra money spent on this and that kind of defeat the purpose of 'home remedy' paint thinners to save money, no? Also, remember that once you add anything but water to the paint, you are atomizing whatever it is you put in the paint, which changes the need from an inexpensive filter to a carbon filter. I have also heard that the ammonia in some Windex can wreak havoc on the plating of airbrushes, but do not have an opinion (I use it to clean only, not thin), and do not have plating coming off anything I didn't cause via stupidity. As far as thinning, a good rule of thumb is to reduce, or thin paints down to a milk like consistancy. Remember that as you thin, you are weakening the amount of pigment, and adjust your spray accordingly.

I always knew it Seriously though, I wouldn't put forth the effort to make a spot like this, and not many would resist the urge to make it a cesspool of ads and sponsored links, buy 'x' and we'll send you a 'magazine' scams, etc, etc. Basically, it wouldn't be here if someone with some class didn't put it here. See, I just excluded myself right there

I cannot find a manufacturer, or any info on those paints other than at Wasco, so call them and see is all I can tell you, but Smith adding that bit to their site would make it just as worry free as it could be for me.

The Wildlife Colors are freeze/thaw stable, check www.smithpaints.com

www.smithpaints.com is the manufacturer, and should have a color chart