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About FishThanks

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  • Birthday 10/27/1960
  1. Angus, I have not seen any adhesion promoters that were designed for water based paint. I paint quite a few baits for Toothy Muskies and I can not imagine not using primer. Primer in itself is for adhesion and for the paint itself to adhere to. It should not affect color at all when you are covering it with a base color for the begining of your painting process anyway. Skipping a step in the process will give you less than stellar results, If the first layer fails they all fail. There is a time window for painting or priming after applying adhesion promoter, if you exceed that time you are supposed to put on another coat before coating. I was lucky to have an experienced auto body friend who made and painted thousands of baits shorten my learning curve. good luck and have fun.
  2. Thanks guys glad you found it useful.
  3. This is a link to a pevious post on how I make my bills. When they come off the table they are finished. If you use a spiral bit they come out even a little nicer but not necessary. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/11444-making-bills-lips.html
  4. I did not see a mention of priming the baits. I use adhesion promoter on my baits and recently on large Muskie sized plastics on repaints. My lures are wood ,dipped in propionate (plastic) and I scuff with 320 and I spray one light coat of the adhesion promoter and then I prime with two part automotive epoxy primer sealer, urethane paints and two part automotive clear. From my friends who are in the bump business and the directions on the adhesion promoter it appears to be for using before priming on plastic parts or over areas that are already painted for adhesion and blending out spot repairs. I only used the primer on plastic repaints and my baits and they held up great. When I ran my baits (Propionate over wood) in to a Michigan cold November I noticed on some the paint egg shelled or wrinkled a little on the lures belly and a couple on the lures nose. After checking it out I found that it lifted off of the Propionate primer and all. I believe the Propionate contracted and expanded at a diiferant rate than the wood and paint. Last season same drill and no failures using the adhesion promoter. In all fairness I did not scuff the propionate before priming the first season because I was told the Primer Sealer being an acetate base would self etch to the Propionate. The propionate looked like the day it was dipped where it lifted. I can not comment on water based paints other than I would not use them with the adhesion promoter or clear because the automotive urethanes are part of a system designed to work together. I spray the primer out of an Paasche H model with the large tip I believe #5 with no more than 10% reducer. If you are spraying in a higher temps I would go to the slow reducer for everything if it seems like it is drying to quick, that could create an adhesion problem. I spray the Chroma Clear that was given to me a few years back. My activator went bad and when I tried to buy the activator for replacement I was told it was off the market for a while. Is it back on the market or is yours older as well? The paint supplier told me the hardners were the same and I bought an aftermarket hardner that worked fine. watch the safety cap on your hardener mine was not screwing down tight. Hope this is helpful David
  5. I use propionate for coating Cedar muskie baits before priming. I did some naturals for show with just propionate and they looked real nice. I did have some blushing when I tried to do it in my garage with the heat on. It was from the high humidity of a Michigan winter floor and the heat drying it out. When done in normal humidity levels I have not had any blushing even when using it for a sealer. I Use automotive two part clear coat for my finish coats as well. I use acetone for the prop instead of Laquer Thinner. If you use it for a sealer you will want a seperate batch for using as a top coat because the color of the prop changes from all he wood soaking and it will have some junk floating in it.,
  6. For Muskie trolling we modify many baits to hunt or dart. I like to run them when the water is clean or clear. Muskie will follow for an extended period of time and the darting action from side to side will create the appearance that the lure is fleeing from being lunch. I do not like to use a wandering bait in dirty water I find I will have more strikes where the fish is lost from not as good of a hook up, or short strikes. I believe they wander when they are on ragged edge of blowing out. They run out to one side then correct there way back only to dart off in the other direction, We modify wooden lures to do it by running over size bills, and you can also bend the line tie screw eye down a little at a time. I think some of the darting comes from pressure building up on and flexing the bill. I am talking about baits being trolled from 3.9 to 4.5 m.p.h. It is usually more often on a straight bait than a jointed however a jointed will wander as well. I usually modify the bait to have a split ring on the rear treble for a little more action as well. I have lures from many companies that have the bill off center or crooked and after tuning the lure to run they are fish catching machines. A lure that wanders on the ragged edge will blow out at trolling speeds from a smaller amount of weed fouling than a real true running bait which is part of my reasoning for calling it running on the ragged edge.
  7. I have been using the same can of Dupont clear for three years. As Frank said my catalyst went at two years because the cap was not screwing down tight. I broke the rules and bought a different brand of catalyst because Dupont stopped making the clear I was using. As they promised it worked perfect. I do store my paints and clear indoors in the winter (Michigan). You should be able to buy clear coat by the quart.
  8. I use the automotive epoxy primer sealer over plastic bait repaints and my own baits in Cedar and Mahogany. You can brush in quickly the first coat if you really want to push it in to the grain and shoot a second coat. I reduce the primer by 10% and shoot it with an airbrush with the large tip. I also seal some of my baits in propionate and on those I scuff with 320 and use a light coat of bumper adhesion promoter before the primer. I use the urethane paints with two part clear and it holds up very well and I use them for Muskie. It is a system engineered to work together. You can really play with the paint in layering and mixing colors . I get 2 oz and 4oz plastic bottles from tcp and reduce the paint for the airbrush 2:1. Very few paints spray as fine as urethane. And you can not beat your price, my friend cleaned out thier paint room and I am set for years. good luck and have fun. I do use a good small booth and wear a forced air respirator to be extra safe but in air brush quantities my booth keeps up more than I actually need.
  9. You mentioned the washer was small, some times a larger and or heavier treble belly hook may make the differance. Depending on hook size they make heavier hooks for saltwater and Muskie.
  10. The inserts are grommets that press in to a counter bored hole. They usually have a barrel swivel pass through with one end hanging out for the hook and the other inside the bait with a through wire from nose to tail passing through the swivel to hold it in. The wire has a loop twisted on one end and is pushed through from the head end and then another is twisted at the tail end (tail wrap). Most of those baits do not use screw eyes. There ia a lot of information on that site ,search through wiring. http://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/forumdisplay.php?f=169
  11. You can turn with a lathe with the part off center. It is easier to do with a duplicator attached to the lathe. I am getting ready to try it. There are some tutorials on turning off center on Stripersonline.com surftalk. The basics are you make marks for the centerline as you normally would then make two marks the same distance off center. You turn the part so far off center then move the lathe centers to the oppposite off center mark and complete the turning. The duplicator gives you equal depth of cut so both sides off the oval shape are uniform. It is supposed to be a little touchy to do.
  12. What type of wood is it? Some woods are way more prone to swelling damage then others . Basswood is real bad. I make baits out of White and Red Cedar and some Mahogany. These woods are way less prone to swelling from moisture. I use prop for a sealer and then automotive two part primer sealer for a prime coat. I do not seal the screw eye entry points. It is hard to tell from the picture if it is an adhesion problem or swelling is the bait split as well? I have been using adhesion promoter after the propionate is scuffed and before priming and tests went very well ths season. It is made for helping paint adhesion on flexible bumpers and available in spray cans, a can goes a long way. I fish for Muskie and big Muskie teeth puncture anything so the wood resitance to swelling and paint adhesion is critical.
  13. FishThanks

    Musky Lures

    We are fortunate to have a lot of local bait makers around lake Saint Clair. Many of them are pros and a quite a few hobby bait makers. I have and fish baits from almost all of them. Some have through wire all the way, some screw eyes only and even one maker uses screw eyes at the line tie and body side of the joint with a hook hanger on the belly and a through wired tail. I have not had a failure on ony of them. I have had screw eyes turn with fish but we turn them back straight and keep on fishing them. I build mine with srew eyes using .072 on the baits under six inches and the eight inch and over I use .092. I use Cedar and Mahogany. Through wired is great but usually requires a two piece bait being split in half. These are usually not a lathe turned bait bait, they are usually made in shapers and custom duplicators. There is a lot of information for through wiring lathe turned baits on a Striper site called surftalk under lure building, much of it is geared towards a different style of bait however a lot of the information crosses over depending on your design. good luck and have fun. David
  14. I would try to move the line tie to the nose of the body. I feel the area of the bill behind the line tie acts more like part of the body instead of a longer bill trying to get more depth. Look at a ten inch Nils Master or a WIley Diver. You may have to watch the bill length so you will be able to tune it. If you are going to run a belly hook make sure it on for testing. good luck
  15. I also build Muskie baits. I built a sliding fixture for cutting lip slots on my table saw and use a 80 tooth with raker teeth that cuts leaving a flat bottom for the lip slot. It is I believe .110 kerf. when I tried the .125 which is a standard the slot was to loose.The fixture has adjustable stop blocks at each end that I set with a little slop end to end. I make two quick passes through the saw with the bait pushed each way on the blocks to open the slot up just a little extra. I leave just a little extra to allow for primer and paint.
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