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Tigger

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Posts posted by Tigger

  1. Dave great stuff! That is a heck of a machine. Thanks

    Rookie I fell out of my chair! I can't believe you said the "Holly Crap Batman" I said the exact same thing earlier when I read it. Do you have any lucky lottery numbers? :P

    LKN4........ Have you tried a squarer edged lip yet? I have found that I get a little more thump with those types of lips.

    Here is one that I been having issues with. I did this body thinking it may work for trout and salmon. I took some mahogany and ran the line loop and hook tie as one piece. I coated it one time with epoxy on its way to three final coats. I always test the lures between every coat. I went out and casted it and about fell over. It has the craziest action that I have ever seen. I have no weighting in the body. I stopped the other two epoxy coats and just finished it with automotive finish. I have tried to make three other bodies with no success. I also tried to upscale the body size for muskies. Just not the same action as the original. I am trying to figure out how the wobble works with this one. Does anyone have any ideas to try a new approach? I want to figure out how to do the "you tube" thing to show the action. I am working on that.

    Thanks

    John

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  2. Man some great stuff!

    Lapala is that a Snakehead? I have had Redline Snakeheads in the past in my aquariums. I had one get to 5 pounds. It was in a 200 gallon fish tank in my basement. I would feed it 8 to 10" goldfish.

    Rofish....... interesting stuff. I had played around with double line ties before. I ran two wires back as seperate loops into the chest cavity. I did like the results. I could never make up my mind if the unused loop was effecting the action of the bait. Bending lips...... this in my newest project at the moment. I have been playing around with a an upcurl, concave cup and and a "V" inversion. To my suprise the there is little difference in the actions with the 4 to 6 inch baits that I have been playing with. I think it may become more of a factor with the even smaller sizes. I know I am going against the grain with the line tie / tighter wobble moved closer to the body. For some odd reason I am getting a crossover effect once I pass the maximum widest wobble going to the body. I can still get it to dive deep and get stability as the whopping 1.5 to 2.3 mph speeds. :D I have not had good results moving the line tie forward to the front of the lip. It fights against the deeper running depths I was looking for. I need to play around with it some more this winter.

    Vodkaman..... how do you shape your baits? I am just curious. I don't want any trade secrets or anything. Routers , CNC , or hand shaping? It is easy for me to make the resin ones fast but I can't imagine wood ones.

    Matt what am I going to do with you! ;) I wish we all had your personality including myself. The world would be a better place! What were we talking about? I have that A.D.D. thing also. Oh crap I forgot the stuff on the grill!

    John

  3. Vodkaman, You are right about adding the type of finish. With my style of luremaking I use a very heavy top coat on the lures. That can be bad and good. I have one body style that I make that will not run right untill I get two coats of finish on the lure. Talk about a leap of faith! :D

    I also thought of another one that may seem small but is very important at times. It is the length or height of the line tie loop. You would be very suprised in how much this can effect the action of the lure. I think this is more inline with what LaPala is referring to in the calculation of the fulcrum point of the lure in the "Z" axis. Through much trial and error I have discovered that line tie location and line tie height are very critical in the "catch ability" of walleye baits. There is a certain pace or wobble tempo that triggers certain fish. The closer you have the line tie to the body of the bait the quicker the tempo or pace of the wobble. The closer the lie tie loop is to the face of the lip the more stable it is at a higher speed. I am honing in on the the right "Mojo" pace for walleyes. :P

    Vodkaman, I take a similiar approach to the design of the baits. I will make around 20 of them and do a similiar process in the evalution of the set. Then I get the heat gun out and drill out and start to modify the lips by bending and the drill by counter weighting. ;)

    You got to the point I was hoping to lead this topic to. The "hunting" actions of baits. What I am finding is that there is a fine line to get a bait to work in that manner. You are of the edge of failure to get that action. Certian lures have it. What I am finding is that lures with flatter tails help achieve this action.

    With all the factors on the above list there are trade-offs with one area covering for another based on the size of the lure. If you are dealing with musky type of lures the forgiveness is greater if one area is lacking in design. The lure will still swim. As you scale down the ladder in size all of the elements become very defined. I am amazed how some of the guys can create such small lures. I started to scale down in lure sizes to fill that thirst for knowledge. I my suprise I have really enjoyed it. I have a much greater appreciation for the guys like Hazmail with his little designs.

    I have more thoughts to add but I am fighting a good head cold and the drips are getting worse. I'll take a break. :D

    John

  4. I am curious on what your thoughts are in general about the actions of crankbaits.

    What do you think are the key aspects of a good swimming crankbait.

    Is it the following:

    The shape and width of the lip?

    The angle of the lip?

    The thickness of the lip?

    The placement of the line tie?

    The shape of the body?

    Is it the curve of the back?

    The weighting inside of the body?

    The bouancy of material for the bait?

    The size of the hooks?

    The placement of the hooks front to back?

    "Rookie" you better not say "its the paint job" :P

    John

  5. Can someone give me the name or brand of a very high quality split ring. I have a good source for the musky lures but I want something super strong for the walleye / bass baits. I really like the split rings on the rapala's F-18's (like a black/nickel). I am looking for sizes in the 1/8" - 1/4" dia.

    Many thanks ahead of time!

    John

  6. Tater that is FANTASTIC! Some big time recognition! What a nice article. All that hard work is paying off. Keep up the great work! :)

    I love spam! I just can't get a lip to stay in it! :eek:

    John

  7. Yes I have brushed the RTV on first to get a hard barrier around the plug to prevent the close to the surface air bubbles. It certainly helps I have found out.

    Yes you can create the the two piece mold to include the thru wire system / screw eye step.

    One small side note on the thru-wire pour. If you have a thinner area of the mold where the wire passes thru. You have to watch that it doesn't allow the reaction to happen and it never hardens. It actually sucks the heat out of the reaction of the two parts. You can let it stay in the mold for a longer period but it may slow you down.

    Good luck

    John

  8. Matt those are INCREDIBLE lures! :drool: You NAILED the color patterns also!:yay:

    Matt I am suprised that you can only get 20 or so lures from the RTV mold. Is the expansion of the microballons stressing the mold?

    Or are the fine details of the mold wearing out?

    Fantastic job!

    John

  9. Tater ............. holly cow!!!!!!! what a post!

    That Axe link is great! :lol:

    On repaints do you have to pay the excise tax? Is that only for the production on a new lure?

    It is amazing how much time we put into our baits. I know I only put my lures on ebay. If I was to charge for the time / hour calculation they would freak out! I just post them for a starting price for .99 cents and have been very very lucky have some people bid on them.

    I get batty if I do 20 lures in a row! I had to take a 2 month break!!!!!!!!! :popcorn: 1500 lures!!!!!!!!!!!:drool:

    John

  10. I use it to repair "chunk outs" from running the router. I will also use it to fill my weight plug holes.

    You can use "spot filler" from an auto body place to fill smaller knots and pin holes in the wood. This comes out of a tube and needs no hardner. Butt.............. let it dry real good over night and make sure it is hard before sanding it.

    John

  11. Woodie that is funny! LOL

    Two nights ago I finished coated a bunch of baits ........... then I saw it!!!!!!! something flying around the room in the dead of winter. I was chasing it around with the heat gun. Came to the end of cord and got whiplash!!!!!!!! I never got the bugger!!!!!! I never found him stuck to the baits!!!!! LOL Man the little things we deal with! LOL:teef:

  12. This caught me by suprise doing my daily surfing. Thanks about the kind words about the baits. Yes the process of the sanding the mesh screen is correct. Butt....... you have to be very carefull about sanding thru the material. You can throw away a whole bucket of the lures real fast with it.

    The larger scales can be achieved in many ways. I don't want to be sneaky but I you put me in a pinch a bit. Hints. You can do what some furniture veneer people do to achieve a similiar effect. It is called Vacume pressing. You suck the air out of a bag to with the object inside. The other way is to imprint thicker metal and apply but your really limited to the size and curve of the baits.

    The copper foil. If you were to look up shielding tape for electronics you may find some neat stuff there. You can find it on ebay also. I will see if I can find it and put on a link here.

    Here is link

    http://www.warmoth.com/supplies/supplies.cfm?fuseaction=copper_shielding

    You can see it is not cheap. Some of those lures I have 5 dollars in copper in them! LOL

    Here is a link to a 3m product. It is embossed copper tape.

    http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/electronics_mfg/esm/node_GS40SM1FPTgs/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_DPB1Q1MJ7Nge/bgel_LBBV2SRH45bl/gvel_4BSQ4C5VF8gl/theme_us_electronicsesm_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_htm

    I will attach a walleye bait that i made with it. I has a nice little scale pattern to it. The copper is very thin. If you try the sand after paint method be careful. They don't waste the copper on thickness!!!!!!! LOL

    I hope this helps

    John

    Icefishing this weekend!!!!!!!!! finally got fishable ice here in Cleveland, Oh!!!!!!!!!! Watchout crappies and bluegills! LOL

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  13. Thanks Lapala for the link. I started to search other manufactures tuna lures and I am seeing similiar features.

    Mark thanks that helps me going into the right direction. I have noticed that there are chugger type baits also. Almost like giant hulla poppers. I was thinking of trying something with a sloped head and would throw water up in the air a bit. Do you think that it would be to hard to work? Walk the dog types are nice to work back to the boat for sure. Less resistance. I hadn't thought about a glider. That me be something to try. I started to spin a blank. I have it rounded out, I just have to figure out a design for some late night spinning.

    Would oversized eyes help in the design? Also what size or type of hooks should I use. I need to order some. I know they are saltwater hooks but what size and weight.

    Thanks

    John

  14. I have a friend that is Tuna fishing in the Panama are in a month. I want to make some tuna lures for him as a gift. I have not tuna fished before. I want to suprise him and didn't want to ask any questions about the baits to tip him off.

    I guess what who be the preferable features of the kind of bait? I was thinking 6" to 8" long. He casts for them with surface plugs. I know it should be a thru wire and I have to use saltwater type of hooks. They catch fish up to 100 lbs often. What makes a good casting lure? Weight wise for a long type of cast? Best colors to use? I just got a lathe and want to try it this weekend.

    Thanks for any help

    John

  15. Jed , The place that I ordered the foam had the microballons also for the resin pours. They are seperate. LOL I am hoping to maybe slip out and go to the Chicago Musky Show next week. I may see if Fatfingers wants to go on a road trip! LOL He lives only 45 minutes away. Jed I read that you are going to be there. If I go I will definetly look you up my friend.

    It is very interesting to read all the resin and foam threads. This site has a wealth of knowledge. I have only been making the lures for just over a year. I hope to post more on hear as I feel comfortable that I am doing things the right way. I have made many mistakes but learning fast.

    I played around more with the Dascar resin last night. The problems that I was getting with an oily residue was my fault. I was not warming the mold up enough. Plus on the thinner style molds ,the wire and or screw eyes can cool the material down in those areas they occupy. It really never reaches its bonding heat temp. I am warming them up more. Its working great now.

    I played around with using Bondo as the base for the mold and adding RTV silicone as a buffer. It worked great but I didn't take steps to make sure it bonded to the silicone. I have worked that out with tube silicone between the two.

    I have played around using the casting resin at the outer box and lining it with the RTV. It works great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I really really like this. I am finding that I like making the molds more than the lures! LOL

    I hope to get my 16 density foam on Monday and play with it. I may have a list of questions after I do.

    Tater, I hear on the fun side of it. I like making the molds more than the lures!

  16. Well I am only a couple of weeks ahead of you.

    This is where I am at:

    I did get the an Alumilite kit to start the whole thing. I found it while picking up some other supplies at the hobby store. What have I gotten myself into!!!!!!!!! LOL I do like the their resin.

    Mr. husky has been a great help to me. I also got a gallon of the Hobby silicone #28. I have made about 7 molds so far. Three BIG musky molds and about 4 other walleye type of baits. I only have enough left for the smaller type of baits. Hard to gage on what to tell you. In my alumilite kit I was able to make only one #18 type of husky jerk mold. I can't remember how much was in there but you can go to the alumilite site and view the kit and it should list what it was.

    I have also got the Dascar plastics resin and have tried it. Not to bad but I get some oily residue every once and while. The mold may not be hot enough. Or I may have not mixed it well enough. The ALumilite in more forgiving in my opion. I have had NO problems with theirs

    I have the 16 lb foam coming with the microballons. It should be here on Monday.

    Not sure if this helps. The whole set-up of the resins,silicone and foam I am seeing gets very costly fast!!!!!! You can sink $400 to $600 real fast without trying.

    One tip. As you learn to make the molds you can see how to use less silicone. At the start for me I was pouring away. I cringe now when I see how much silicone I wasted. It is like gold I see now. There are ways to use resin with the combination of silicone to get the job done. I am new to the resin thing but you learn fast on the do's and don'ts as I play with it.

    Good luck

  17. The swim baits are interesting beasts. I think the key other than proper weighting ( up / down) is the type of pivot that is used. I believe that a very free swinging pivot makes the job alot easier.

    I keep thinking to try one with a thru cable and bead system but something tells me that it would be to rigid. Thus a stiffer action similiar to a glider.

    Many people have used door hinges and the standard interlocking screw eyes. They seem to work the best. Even an interlocking wood joint and a thru nail. It worked great also.

    I keep thinking that there is a way to tighten the links between segments for a more realistic look but that is a hard nut to crack with the wood body's

    The mystery of the swim bait lives on! LOL

    Jed your bait has really nice action!

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