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Luretrekker

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Everything posted by Luretrekker

  1. You should definetifly wear a respirator...otherwise you will recognize that the fumes are not good for your health...irritated mucous membranes in the throat, your eyes and in your nose will be the first signs without protection. I'm currently using a 3M Mask, but I'm still not sure which is really the right filter to get full protection. Does anybody know which filters to use from 3M to get a proper protection??
  2. Luretrekker

    ESOX No 3

    Jeep, very nice pike swimbait!! Love that one.
  3. I think there are two origins of bubbles in a mold. 1. Bubbles generated during mixing of the resin. They will of course be somewhere in the mold. 2. Bubbles which emerge by air that is getting encolsed in the mold during pouring...for example in a fine detail where air gets trapped. Another thing I was thinking about is if a blank with a high proportion of microsperes is able to produce bubbles under the clear coat either. Would be interesting how stable these microspheres are before they explode and degas under heat... So vibrating the mold would prevent bubbles with origin 2. The best way to prevent bubbles with origin 1 would be prepare the mixed resin under vacuum...this pulls the bubbles out of the mix. But this would presume a long curing time for the resin...otherwise it will cure under the vacuum...
  4. A-Mac, I made the experience: The longer the blanks are degassing (some did over weeks because of no time) the better was the paint stucking without bubbles under the clear.
  5. This is a really interesting topic, because every lurebuilder who is working seriously with resin molded baits will have exactly the problems you guys mentioned. I had some problems with bubbles in the beginning...and still there arise some bubbles here and there, but I restrict potential bubbles into areas of the mold with no detail where I can fix the holes afterwards whit resin again and sand it down. I'm positioning the mold in a way the bubble collect in the area whith minimal work after curing. I alwas make a check for hidden bubbles by through-lighting the blanks with a strong light source..it helps finding potential bubbles to fill them. For me bubbles are the thing I really hate...its the worst thing and everything else than lurebuilding fun...but it has to be fixed to get a perfect product at the end. The other thing...with bubbles or hidden bubbles which expand under our topcoat and paint in the heat is also tricky. As rookie said it worked for me either to let the pieces cure for a longer time and let them gas out. I was thinking about heating them, but never tried it until now...this will be the next thing I will try.
  6. Luretrekker

    Inspired by TU

    Hi Dieter, I just saw that you built one of those bananas we talked about. Very nice...it remembers me the time when I was building bananas all the time ;-) Hope it will bring a nice fish...
  7. Thanks! Yes those are foiled...I love foiled lures although foiling can produce some disadvantages
  8. Thanks! :-) Although I made lots of baits out of wood I finally built molds for this one...
  9. Some unfinished lures, ready for top coating...
  10. Luretrekker

    YummyBream Swimbait

    Soft finned high backed swimbait built for slow-mo action...further description in the previous image..
  11. Luretrekker

    YummyBream Swimbait

    This swimbait is slow sinking and I built it with to work at very slow speed over weed covers, in very flat water or close to the surface. It measures 6.5 inch and weights about 2,7 oz.
  12. This is my interpretation of a european perch crankbait. I built it in different versions with flat- or deep diving lip.
  13. Bob, first I like your through-wire construction! I'm afriend of tough wired baits. In my opinion your problem is concerned with the shape of the lure...your swimbait tail section makes a bow. This causes lacking area in the ventral "belly" section of the bait- This area is important to get the lure running...maybe you should try adding putty. Good luck
  14. Thank you for the kind words I'm going to make a new video when the conditions are better...the winter holds his frosty hand above our waters at the moment...
  15. Thanks a lot. It is about 6 inch and the fins are made of softplastic. It can be fished very slowly with a deadly swimming motion.
  16. Hi guys, some time ago I showed you my YummyBream swimbait. After hooking some nice fish I accicdently lost my very first bait during floattubing. This was some kind of shock , due to sooo many hours of work...but then it was clear that I need to rebuild the lure and this time I built the molds before loosing the proto Here it is:
  17. Luretrekker

    10" baby musky jerkbait

    I like this style of paint job very much!
  18. Hi snax, mark, thank you both!! And mark: I decided that I'm going to add prices on the site soon.
  19. This is such an excellent thread...some people can't imagine how time consuming some steps can be and how much work is hidden in a custom lure. It sounds so fast "JUST" to carve and then paint the bait and it's finished But I'm sure everybody here on TU knows best about As a craftsman for example it is normal that you get your money per hour...as a lurebuilder it is worth the craftmanship as well or even all the more I think because often it is more than just to build something...it is also design, lots of tests and material, besides the time, which costs money either. Today where almost everything is machined by robots for my taste handcrafted goods have much more worth...just my
  20. Your tail can almost bend 180 degree. I don't really know it this is really the problem, but I would expect it to be. Try to stop your joints by glueing something as stoppers and adjust the joints in a way that you allow maximum some more than 90 degrees of turning. Then try a test run to see what happens. This is what I would try...
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