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Dink Master

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Posts posted by Dink Master

  1. 50 minutes ago, bryanmc said:

    Thanks guys.  I poured some yesterday and didn't remember my exact ratio of plastic to gbm.  They came out at 17g so I was pretty close.

    15-17g are good.

    Your profile picture  is Lake Shasta?

    I should be up there right now for the MLF/FLW event but it got shut down

    by  the Forest Service COVID-19

  2. On 12/24/2020 at 6:28 AM, wood0639 said:

    Hi all,

    Does anyone have leads on any Bass Tackle dual or triple injectors for sale?  Their website says out of stock, and I've tried multiple times to email with no luck.  Thanks in advance!

    I just check Basstackle it looks like they have Injectors in stock

    • Like 1
  3. 20 hours ago, Tiderunner said:

    Seeing as nobody has the dual injector in stock, I may as well wait. The do it, and bass tackle seem to be my first choices.

    The meat injector thing reminds me of a funny story. My son was a funeral director. And I, smoke  a lot of meats.

    Friends were over one night and I made a smoked meat buffet. Some were sausages I had injected with beer, some with wine. Friends wife asked what I used to inject the meat with. Showed her this huge stainless steel injector.

    She asked where I go it from, told her my son brought it home from work. The look on her face was priceless!

    OK guess you had to be there,

    FWIW, I don't sell my baits, they're for my own use and friends. So laminate plates work, but painfully slow.

    I make one wacky worm type I call nightcrawler, that has been deadly for me, but it takes hours to make 25. Would love to speed it up.

    I just check Basstackle it looks like they have Injectors in stock

    • Like 1
  4. Believe me I have a lot more then that.

    Lurecraft, Lureworks, Bear's, Dead On, & Bait Plastics.

    In the picture I wanted to show you the Soft/Medium & the Medium/Saltwater blend(see Les Young's post  above)

    I also tweak with softener & hardeners. The Lurecraft bottle on the right might be softener?

    I looked at the Do-It web site the " Crystal Clear" hardener looks white to me. Did you find out anything from them?

  5. To answer your question:  I do not know who makes a clear Hardener.

    I was only trying to help. I also have bottles that have all the print missing, so I do not know what it is or what brand it is.

    I did not know how experience you are, so I was just pointing out that most Hardeners are white.

    I did not think that you did know how hardener works. I also been pouring for over 30 years and prefer M-F Plastic.

    I looked a M-F web site they have Sinking Softener but I did not see Hardener for Soft Sinking Plastic.


    I have never used M-F Soft Sinking Plastic.

    I would get some M-F Medium Sinking Plastic and some Sinking Softener and tweak your plastic down (softer)

    Good Luck. Let us know where you find the Clear Hardener.


    M-F Plastic.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  6. 4 hours ago, Tiderunner said:

    Some time back I bought a hardener that was clear, or close to clear. The label had worn off and all print was gone from the bottle. Anyone know who might sell this type of hardener?

    I've since bought a bottle of hardener, I believe its Lurecraft brand that is a paste PVC resin type. Hard to use. Doesn't mix well no matter what I do. Doesn't allow me to make clear baits.

    Can't use it for reheats so I can dial in exactly what I want when making recipes.

    In short I hate the stuff.

    I want my clear one back! Can anyone here help me out?

    Most Hardeners are white

    Most Softeners are clear

    Most Heat Stabilizers clear-(brown tint)

    Most Worm Oils are clear

    What plastic are you using? Why are you adding Hardener?

    How clear are your baits without the non clear hardener?

    Heat Stabilizers works okay on some plastics for reheats.

    • Like 1
  7. 16 hours ago, Ballin21 said:

    I've tried the round nose pliers the way you have it, and the paint gets stuck to my pliers. whats the trick?

    Hold blade with needle-nose pliers when heating.

    Use cool round nose pliers to dip your blade.

    Don't over heat your blade.

    You want a lite coat of paint (velvet looking)  Baking in the Toaster Oven will smooth out and cure the paint

    • Thanks 1
  8. On 8/27/2020 at 3:14 PM, FishBones805 said:

    Well, not to bash ANY resaler, but if you can get the same product from the supplier, why pay anyone elses markup? On Matt's (Anglers Alley) recommendation I spoke with Chad from Polysol and they'll help you find the mix you need, and once you get to the 55 gal range, they'll even mix special for you. I'm going with Bait Plastics once I burn through the two gal of MF I've got coming from Zeiners.

    Got my latest order from MF today. It only took 15 days.

  9. I have been making worms for a long time(over 25 years) and have  used most brands out there.

    I like Dead on Plastix  - it stays clear and does no yellow like some of the others.

    But something is wrong, a nail weight should not pop out of the side of a worm after one day.

    I mixed it well and heated over 350, even if I din't I don't think it should be this temperamental?

    Photo 1 - Worm & Nail Weight (White Floating  Swimbait/Jerk Bait)

    Photo 2 - Nail Weight Inserted into worm

    Photo 3 - 1 Day later  Nail ripped through the side of the worm (worm just sitting in garage)




  10. 3 hours ago, FishBones805 said:

    Wow, thank you guys so much.  I have been using MF's 464 mix for almost a decade, but watching the youtube vids of Marling and Worlds worst I was encouraged by the clarity of the plastic, even when they seemed to overheat it.  I was about to drop a hundo on two gallons (one floating and one sinking to mix together) of dead on.  Most of my custom is saltwater, durability issues are not tolerated.

    Clear baits - Yes, stays clear after many re-heats but durability sucks.

    Don't know if I got a bad batch, or it was something I did wrong.

    Still trying to work it out. Fishing Ca Delta FLW this week. I will keep testing when I get home.

    • Like 1
  11. "Has anyone else has problems with durability?" Yes!

    I made a lot of baits during my pandemic time off for a tournament at Clear Lake last month.

    Pre-Rigged some worms I made with a Nail Weight, when I tried to use them they where all ripped  at 

    the nose with the Nail Weight hanging out.

    Also Texas Rigged Drop Shot Worms where just falling off the hook, when the rod was  just sitting in the boat.

    Check out this post. 


    Is it our process or the plastic?

  12. On 5/20/2020 at 11:28 PM, Fern said:

    I am using the dead on plastix worm oil. usually apply it right as i put them off to the side to cure. would the worm oil weaken the plastic? 

    I use the black bucket tube craw blend from dead on plastix so its already pre-mixed with hardener/softner so I just agitate the gallon for about 2 minutes by shaking it back and forth with my hands. I heat in a 1 cup glass pyrex for a minute at a time till the plastic reaches 350 giving it mixes in between minute to ensure its evenly heated. 

    due to the fact that out of 20 only about 15/16 of them are usable with nothing wrong noted with them, I feel like there has got to be something affecting the 4-5 that rip that is the others are not affected by like maybe one of the slots got too much air and formed an air pocket i cant see but upon inspection before putting the jig heads in I don't see anything wrong with them and the plastic feels sturdy. Could it maybe also be that when I clear dip them it is making the plastic thicker and less stretchy? maybe the ones that break are the ones that I am double dipping in clear plastisol? 

    "would the worm oil weaken the plastic? "

    I do not know. I always use worm right before I bag my baits. 

    I  think more oil would be absorbed into warm uncured plastic making them weaker?

    .I don't think you need any oil on them when you  lay them out to cure.

    Maybe a expert will chime in?

    • Like 1
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