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Dink Master

TU Member
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Everything posted by Dink Master

  1. Yes 22 Gauge craft wire works the best for me.
  2. White or lite orange tube - Black paint airbrushed on - Clear dip with red glitter?
  3. https://www.tacticalbassin.com/blog/adapting-swimbaits-and-crankbaits-to-changing-conditions-and-giant-smallmouth 3" work good Watch this video , they are using 4.8" Keitech swimbaits on smallmouth
  4. https://www.gessweincanada.com/product-p/811-2652m.htm https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-31345-Ton-Clear-Epoxy/dp/B0006O8QQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525044281&sr=8-1&keywords=devcon+30+minute+epoxy
  5. You might try to fix your flow rate -more lead in your pot? Watch this video for this guys fix. 5:20 Min. mark His first pour was bad 4:45 min. mark Check out his fix at the 5:20 min. mark 2nd & 3rd pour good flow 6:15 min. mark (not a good looking pour) I would hold my mold closer and would heat my hook & mold.
  6. 2X Pour four times without a hook first. (some lead might come out the bottom - so pour on a metal surface) The #1 thing for me is heating the hook when it is in the mold with a Trigger Start Propane Torch (open mold) 1 second blast works every time, if I have a good flow of hot lead. Blast 3 pours in a row, then try one without a blast.
  7. I made and posted the first Divided Cup here at TackleUnderground. Still have it and it still works. I used the Original Cold-Weld Formula J-B Weld. Jig Man answers are good. Most of the heating and reheating is done in each colors own cup. I will add hot plastic to my divided cup, mixing the hot with the cooler plastic. I will blast the divided cup in the microwave for about 30 seconds if needed. You just need to find a system that works best for you. Have fun. Just make sure your aluminum is not shiny.
  8. Shawn Collins Custom http://shawncollinscustoms.net/index.htm
  9. Like your videos a lot, keep making them. Not much to clean up after the mod, but I understand your point.
  10. I still have some clear tabs, but I want more. Can't find them at Fishingskirts.com Please let us know where to find them. Thanks
  11. I bead blast my blades first, then heat enough to take powder paint (velvet look) Hold blade with Needle-Nose Pliers when heating. Hold warm blade with Round-Nose Pliers when dipping blade into the Fluid Bed. Let the paint flow in the Toaster Oven. Left blade blasted - Right is stock
  12. I don't have a consistent process either. I bend my blades by hand with Vice Grips & my thumb. You can get a little more rounded look my way.
  13. You are right. It is Naked Bait #BSH26 - Crystal Flake Smoke Blue Crystal
  14. You need to add a valve to your Fluid Bed. You have to restrict/adjust the air flow.
  15. I think it is a TJ's Tackle 3" Fluid Bed. https://www.tjstackle.com/
  16. This is what my Tube Cutter looks like. Large disk is a blade, smaller disk is a washer.
  17. http://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/crayfish-and-nymphs/mold-c43-52-inch-130-mm/
  18. Bait Mold A East Europe Mold Shop (takes about 6 weeks to get your molds) http://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/aluminum-mold/aluminum-mold-c80-modified-specsize-41″-inch-105-mm/
  19. cadman - Here is a .pdf Homemade Twistlock.pdf
  20. I think I got this from Tackle Underground years ago? It works pretty good. Thanks to whoever posted it.
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