airhog

Update: I made a mold with a wax master. Detail was superb. I coated the wax with some windex. The only disadvantage was that the wax master broke when I attempted to remove it from the mold. It would probably work just as well in an aluminum mold. I read that lubricatants can make it stick. I think if you just put the mold in the freezer after pouring it would pop right out.

I'm doing most of those things actually. All of my molds upto the point have been 2 part molds. I vibrate the pop before and after I pour it. I think my consistency has been a bit too thick though, which might be part of the problem. Also, when I get air bubbles, it is usually just on the bait itself, and nowhere else around the pop that doesnt have plastic touching it.

I have problems copying baits with POP. I get a lot of airbubble around the plastic. I ready online that this can be caused by the surface tension of the plaster and the plastic. I read that you can spray dish soap and water, or windex cut 50% with water onto your plastic baits to reduce your surface tension and prevent airbubbles.

Someone else posted a few days ago about creating a model from wax. This got the ideas rolling in my head, and I have found that you can use paraffin wax to make a master model from a mold. I found that it works well if the POP molds are coated well with a sealer. Just heat the wax up and pour into your mold. I popped my molds in the freezer to cool them down, and the baits came out easily of the mold I have that is well sealed. I find it easier to shape and carve the wax then clay or wood. Also you can use a low power soldering iron to smooth out rough spots, but it does take a light touch to keep from deforming the wax.

I know some people here use the products available from USG http://www.plaster.com I have not been very happy wit the quality of my molds made from regular DAP plaster, and I was wondering if a different type of plaster might give me better detail. Someone has mentioned using Hydro-stone for their molds, The product description says that you should mechanically mix the plaster. Do you find this is needed? Also, has anyone tried out the Drystone product that does not require being dried? Any advice you can give on the different types of plaster that USG sells would be greatly appreciated.

I really like the YUM garlic. I add a bit to the plastic after it is hot, add some to the molds, and add some to the bags when I am finished.

I have problems poring 2-3" baits when it is a two color pour. I have a difficult time keeping the first color off the sides of the mold. Single colors pour fine for me, although some of the pours with really fine detail are a pain.

I pour some crappie baits myself, and i have found that it is pretty difficult to pour small baits. It is hard to get the small details, and since the baits are so narrow it can be difficult to pour multi-colors. If you only factor cost into the equation, you could make them cheaper, however once you factor in the cost of your own labor, it is not worth it on a small scale. It would probably be worth it if you were pouring single colors, and werent looking for baits that look really great.

I use my food dehydrator. I just put it in there overnight and it works great!