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Vodkaman last won the day on January 6

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About Vodkaman

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  • Birthday 10/03/1956

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  1. As a professional designer; I look at all the 'what if' scenarios and build in solutions for everything. But, as I discovered with previous duplicator designs, there are always unforeseen problems. But, if I were to design a lip router, someone else would have to build it. I no longer have a workshop or a need for the product. I might still go ahead purely for interest. Dave
  2. I did actually design a 3D pantograph duplicator for complex body manufacture. The hope was that it would be faster and give a better, ridge-less finish than the traditional 3D duplicator. I remembered that it also did 2D objects like lips. So, I searched back through my CAD files and found it. Damned thing was so complex that I could not figure out how it worked It does seem to me that there could be room for a lip cutter pantograph, if I could curb my tendency to over complicate. I will give the idea some thought, even though my current lure development is going in a different direction. Dave
  3. For complex shapes of a few hundred at a time, I would be looking into copy routers. Probably design and build my own. Dave
  4. Assuming you have the correct light wave frequency for the cure of your product. Distance from your light source is absolutely critical. Cure effectiveness deteriorates at a rate of 8:1. in other words, increase the distance by one inch and the cure effectiveness is reduced massively. Dave
  5. B-Rad - don't take this particular post too seriously. We all flex our ideological muscles occasionally on this site, but it is fairly meaningless. Arrive at your own conclusions. This forum is comprised of lure genius, but we rarely agree on a majority of issues. This is a good thing as you get to make your own decisions. Read, take it all in and decide for yourself. Dave
  6. Actually, I find it unnecessary, but that is a whole new subject, argued through many times on this site Dave
  7. Balsa is a fibrous, hairy wood. You have to fix the fluff hard to be able to sand the body smooth for a professional finish. Also, as Bob pointed out, you need to reinforce this vulnerable, soft hardwood. I like thin CA (super glue) for this job. It soaks into the surface for that reinforcement. It is very hard, enabling the fluff to be removed easily. And, it is fast. The only downside is that if you don't get the application just right, it can be wavy, and then difficult to sand down level again. If I was taking lures to a finished level, I would probably use CA to seal and remove the hairs, then a coat of epoxy to achieve a smooth, level surface for a really professional finish. Just my take. Nothing wrong with any of the suggestions above, they all get the job done. Dave
  8. Sent. 1 - Place a container of water on the gram scale and zero the display. 2 - Insert the lure assembly using long nose pliers or tweezers so that the lure is completely submerged and not touching sides or bottom. 3 - Write down the weight in grams. 4 – Weigh the dry lure assembly in grams, write down the weight. The weight (3) represents the volume of the lure cm³. Density is measured in grams per centimeter cubed (gm/cm³). To calculate the lure assembly density: density = weight(4) ÷ weight(3) Dave
  9. My first thought was to calculate the density of your lure from the sink rate, conversely, to calculate the required density to achieve a specific sink rate. I figured that this information could be useful for lure designers. But alas, there is one significant unknown, the coefficient of drag of the lure. Another variable that would prove problematic is the area of the lure foot print. It would be much simpler to perform water tests – dangit! However, other questions can be answered. 1 – The sink rate will be constant regardless of the depth and the increasing water pressure. 2 – The lure will not stop at a specific depth, given that the initial fall rate was 1ft/s. 3 – If the water pressure actually compresses the lure, which is actually a possibility, then the lure will sink faster. The only way that a lure can suspend at a specific depth is due to the change in water temperature, which we know occurs. Temperature drops with depth. As the temperature drops, the density of the water increases. Because temperature varies from day to day, it is not possible to design a lure to suspend at a specific depth. The only solution is to adjust at the water’s edge on the day. Regardless of the sink rate or float rate, the lure will swim at the same depth. I am not saying that weight does not affect the swim depth, but unless the lure is weighted to the extreme, then the water forces on the lure and the line will far outweigh the effects of gravity. Dave
  10. Custon is a specific design to a particular customer's specifications. If that customer decides to go to mass production for general sale, it is no longer custom. Dave
  11. Adjective: custom - made or done to order for a particular customer. Just about sums it up for me. Dave
  12. If you have a digital scale, you will be able to measure this by using Archimedes. This link will show you the method. Water weighs 1 gram per cm cube. if the volume of your blank is 20cm3 and the weight of the blank is 8gm then it will require more than 12gm to sink. Dave
  13. Old1ncal - sent. Sorry for delay, my internet was down. Dave
  14. The kids are lucky, their math will improve. I do conversion calcs in my head just for fun. In competitions, the big fish weights are called out in kilograms, I convert to pounds. Multiply by 5, divide by 11 Dave
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