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Vodkaman last won the day on June 19

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About Vodkaman

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  • Birthday 10/03/1956

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  1. Mark - funny For more roll, which I generally try to avoid, I would look to the lip. The forces that drive the lure action come off the lip perpendicular to the lip side. So, if the lip shape was more triangular in shape then the forces would impart more roll. The more angled the lip the more roll you get. It is something to experiment with, like Mark stated. Dave
  2. The two containers to the right seem to be the key. Can you provide any more detail. Also the packet contents shown bottom right. Is there a key cut-out in the shaft of the two keys; mid and lower left, also in the thread forms upper left. We need more detail. The keys and the threads seem to have location tabs, so the keys wind the threads. Dave
  3. Reading between the lines of your post, I see some disappointment. I see no specific requirements, you just want a lure that swims using your chosen method of production using 3D printed media, and I am OK with that. Sorry for the lengthy post. I have done some work with 3D printing, but not directly producing the lure, more designing molds. So let’s talk about 3D printing lures. Firstly, you must consider the density of the plastic that you are working with. Regardless of the material specification, they are all roughly the same density; 1.2g/cm3, in other words, if you designed a pretty shape and printed out a solid body, it would sink like a stone, and that is before you add ballast, wires, hooks and eyes. Your lure body will need to be hollow in order to reduce the overall density of the lure to that of a standard lure construction. Let us consider the most talked about material; balsa, it has a density range of 0.40–0.340 g/cm3. and if you are talking to me then you will need to get used to metric numbers, because I consider the USA preference for pounds and ounces archaic and inefficient especially in the world of material density, your primary material science in lure design. An equivalent material/air density of 0.3g/cm3 would be a very good starting point for a strong but still very reactive lure. As you are talking about 3D printing, I can assume a level of engineering and that you have a CAD software for design, let me know if this is true or not. This is not a test, the absolute truth will not hurt but is required. Most lure designers would not have such knowledge, but it does not stop them from being superb lure designers. This is not a class thing, merely a method of design. As we are designing a hollow lure, then the lure will be printed in two halves, to be later glued together. We can design provision for the ballast weight and the wire trace for tow eye and hook management, be it a single one piece wire, or more likely separate wires, as we are dealing with a much stronger material than pure balsa. Assuming a lipped crank-bait type lure, the next consideration is the lip. We can either design the lip into the 3D print or design a slot to mount a lip of a more suitable material such as polycarbonate, the standard material for lips, or even a thinner woven glass type material. My point is that the lip is the part that takes the most abuse, with contact with terrain, bouncing off rocks etc. For own use and the ease of production, I would suggest a compromise, and design the lip into the lure body with the standard 3D material choice. As suggested above, we are looking for a lure that swims between 4ft and 10ft depth. A lip angle of around 45 – 50 degrees, tow eye in the body, ballast located low around the COG, a central hook and a tail hook, the length and weight of lure to be determined. You can pick the length of lure and a pretty shape. The hard part is the lip length and width. This will inevitably involve some trial and error, it is called research and development (R+D). You design the first prototype with the lip too long, then trim it back to attain the swim that you desire, then modify the model to suit. It is all about overall density, lip size and tow eye position. I find this an interesting project and would like to be involved. Dave
  4. This is my hunting solution posted in April 2017. The theory stands up and the build success rate is 100% with care. Of course, I am not claiming that there are not more solutions out there. Dave
  5. Vodkaman


    Absolutely right. Dave
  6. Vodkaman


    It is like going to a Chinese restaurant and ordering from the picture menu, you are always disappointed. Wouldn't it be wonderful if every virtual image was accompanied with REAL video of the lures action. If I was going to sell a lure, this would always be my strategy. Dave
  7. I feel you bud, I went through this several years ago. It is partly the reason why my old posts don't have pics. There was a system crash that removed a lot of stuff too. Deleting old pics is most definitely NOT good for the site. I suggest that you get in touch privately with the admin and sort out some arrangement. As a prolific member, you should be allowed some concession, IMO. I was not and thousands of posts were ruined. Argue your case for the good of us all. This is not about people who take megabyte pics and don't reduce them down to an appropriate pixel size. There is no excuse for pics greater than 100Kb. Dave
  8. The worst a lure has to endure is casting into rocks etc. I would find an empty car-park (4am) and cast there a dozen times. Slapping on the sidewalk would be too severe and unrealistic - funny though Dave
  9. ABS would be my first proto material for sure. Cheap, readily available, same density. Dave
  10. If I was going to attempt a carving project. I would make a mold and cast the simple un-carved body in Bondo and then carve. There is no grain to be concerned about, and if I screwed up, I could quickly cast another master for my next carving attempt rather than starting from scratch. Dave
  11. There is no ideal solution to this dilemma. Acrylic is hard, scratch resistant, but shatters under impact. Polycarbonate is soft, easily scratched but it can take the impacts. Fishermen, the customer base, can put up with the scratches. What they cannot abide is breakages. For me, poly would be the way to go every time. I wish I had the funds to develop and prototype my triple point lure, funds and materials are holding me back, otherwise I would be tempted to throw it your way for a limited production run. What I need is my own 3D Printer. As for design, all the materials available have roughly the same density, around 1.2g/cm2, so interchange of materials is not an issue. Dave
  12. For an emergency repair to get a few extra pours, I would suggest a rubber cement. A hard/rigid glue would just break away the first time you clamp. But basically, the mold is lost. It is advisable to use load spreading soft wood plates for clamping, rather than direct clamping, add a layer of rubber sheet, even better. I always sanded the clamping surface of my POP molds on a belt sander to remove any high spots, to reduce uneven clamping forces. Dave
  13. It doesn't surprise me that the idea is not new, there are a lot of us out there messing with this stuff, it just doesn't get talked about much. I am sure a testing eye plate could be designed were the split ring can be maneuvered into multiple positions without having to be removed and re-fitted which would be a fiddly process. But the solution would require some fine diameter machining, probably NC. This is beyond the capability of most man-caves. Perspex or Lexan would work perfectly well for the purpose. After the lure has gone through prototype and developed, the plate could be removed and re-used on the next project. This stuff would only be used for prototyping, NOT for catching fish. I also see an application for determining the optimum eye position for shallow lips on deep divers. Dave
  14. Loved the video. We have similar minds. I have used the lip and eye ideas, particularly in the early years. I used thin copper sheet. When building a new lure, the first prototype would be fitted with an adjustable eye, like your long twisted, but much shorter. For the lip, again similar idea, but I would either wedge in with shaved cocktail sticks, or if I was testing at a pond, I would fix with UHU glue, which is easily removed. I built a mold for casting threaded weights, so that I could adjust the weight length in the mold. I even built a hinged lip, but this was to aid throwing lures with steep lip angles. A project like this is useful, particularly for new builders, so that they can quickly get a feel for what the various adjustments achieve. I find that the most profound adjustment is the tow eye. I have an idea that I haven't tried yet, for fixing several holes close to each other, giving a finer adjustment. This is a small plate with 1/16" diameter holes drilled very close together. The tiny plate is glued into a vertical slot in the nose. Again, this would be for first prototype. Dave
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