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Vodkaman

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Vodkaman last won the day on October 13

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About Vodkaman

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  • Birthday 10/03/1956

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  1. If you expect your lures to fall apart then yes, through wire is going to bring the fish home. What is your experience fishing for these monsters, have your lures disintegrated? Personally, I have never made a lure with a screw eye. All my lures are made with home made barrel twisted eyes. I have never had an eye failure, or a failure of any kind, catching aggressive fish up to 12Lb. If your wood is strong enough, with an eye penetration of 25mm (1") I would not anticipate any problems. Dave
  2. CA is cyanoacrylate glue. it is what Super glue is. CA comes in thick and runny versions. Some lure builders use thick for fixing hardware and eyes. I use runny CA for everything. Dave
  3. I like runny superglue, especially for lightweight woods like balsa. It soaks in and fixes the hairy surface, allowing it to be sanded to a smooth finish. A second coat is required to seal any areas that the sanding operation may have disturbed. CA glue (super glue) dries fast, but I would still give it time. I am not a painter so I am just being cautious for you. I would be interested in any comments on time before painting after CA application. Dave
  4. CD's will work. I have not tried myself, but they are made of polycarbonate which is the perfect material used by many builders. Dave
  5. Just to clarify the difference, an old video of mine. Dave
  6. Great minds Liz - next time it would be best to start a new thread. This is not a reprimand, just advice on best practice for the site. I agree, great story. BUT, get back to school young man Dave
  7. In my opinion, in order of preference: 1 - belt sander, they are usually belt/disk combo. 2 - drill press. Accurate drilling, also flap wheel operation. 3 - band saw. I prefer a metal cutting blade. Rough body shape and lip slot cutting. Dave
  8. Very good job. Fooled me for sure Dave
  9. They look great. Bought or duplicator blanks? Dave
  10. My experience with epoxy and other 2-part resins; once they get hot, it is too late to apply. Dave
  11. I would say make at least two more with lip lengths 25mm and 20mm plus what ever you want to try, and give me some feedback. Try with and without a ballast weight. We all have a 'feel' for the power of the lip on a crank, but there is no 'feel' precedence for something like this. Dave
  12. I would say not, but like you say, the materials are cheap and this is a very simple part to make. I would certainly go to the water's edge with several configs, including your idea. Dave
  13. I don't know about the trip thing, but the tow point will be a critical factor in the dive function. I will model something up in 25mm (1") and see how it looks. Dave
  14. This is what I had in my mind for the PVC tube. Of course I must add a disclaimer as this is pure theory. The idea is to scoop up water and drive it upwards, providing a jet effect to drive the tube downwards. There will still be vortex shedding, so a low pressure will exist underneath the tube, drawing the tube down. The lip(s) trimmed half way around the pipe should soften the vortex effect and subsequent movement. The top/rear lip protects the jet from the vortices formed around the pipe. Also, balances the pressure on the front lip and thus controls the dive angle. Adjustments - this is basically eyeballed, so the geometry; body length, front lip length, rear lip length, eye positions may have to be moved around for optimum. Ballast eye - I don't think a ballast leader will be necessary, but I have included it in case of unforeseen stability problems. The pipe I have in my hand is 21.5mm OD with 2mm wall thickness. I have designed the length 75mm with lips 25mm. Any thoughts? Dave
  15. I like the tube idea, I think it would work without adding weight. Very easy to make too. There would be optimum dimensions for maximum dive, so trial and error would be required. Dave
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