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Vodkaman last won the day on January 9

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About Vodkaman

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  • Birthday 10/03/1956

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  1. Vodkaman


    Here is a vid of me fishing, capturing a 4.58Kg bawal, a shade over 10Lbs. You can see a slight limp, but I am moving just fine. I had been sitting motionless for 30 minutes. Once I get moving everything is now normal. Dave
  2. Vodkaman

    Drilling Dowel for Tail Hanger

    I would make a jig for this job. You could probably do 10 dowels at a time. 1 - two identical blocks of a hard wood fixed together with locating pins. 2 - drill series of pilot holes down the join face. 3 - drill dowel holes to correct depth for length. The obvious problem with this jig; is the dowel slug rotating during pilot drilling. I would fix this by coating the dowel holes with contact adhesive or other rubber cement to add grip. Insert the dowel blanks, close and clamp the jig. Drill the centre holes with a hand drill or drill press. A jig can also be made for cutting the dowels to the correct length; a simple block with a dowel hole. An additional small through hole for an ejector pin. Clamp block in bench vice, insert dowel, cut with hacksaw, eject with pin (nail). Dave
  3. Vodkaman


    Sfrye37 - in that case, a mold might be a good idea. Also remember that Bondo filler is your friend in this game. If you make a mistake on your master, you can add a coat of Bondo over the fault, and sand down as required. Dave
  4. Having been so critical, I now feel the need to explain why. I spent hundreds of hours and as many prototypes trying to develop a consistent hunter. Having achieved the hunter, I cast the body, built the lure and it failed badly, for all the reasons that I mentioned. As it happened, I was on the wrong track anyway, but that does not diminish the importance of transferring your prototype data to your final lure, with accuracy. For future reference; Choose your final materials be it wood or cast material, and use these materials for your prototyping. Time is too valuable to squander it away needlessly. Dave
  5. I think you are going about this all wrong. Presumably, you have done a prototype out of wood, added ballast weights to achieve the sink rate and the action that you are looking for. You were successful and achieved everything you wanted out of your lure. I won't guess at how many prototypes you built, I can only judge on how many it took me to achieve exactly what I was looking for. Jointed baits are complicated enough, so eliminating all that carving is a very good idea. BUT, it was the combination of the wood density, the amount and position of the ballast that gave you exactly what you were looking for. Now, you are ignoring the wood density, throwing out all the ballast parameters, and trying to produce a neutral density material, and hoping that the lure will swim exactly as your prototype did. Swimbaits and gliders are particularly sensitive to ballast. The chances of achieving the success of your prototypes using a neutral density material to replace the ballast is not zero, but not far off. Roman swimbaits have a very complex ballast system. I know because I have worked on something very similar for a customer. The idea being that you can snip off various elements of the ballast casting in order to achieve a certain characteristic; float, neutral, slow sink and fast sink, achieving these characteristics from a single casting of the ballast. Do not ignore the importance of ballast or the density of the body material of the prototype. I suggest that you cast the lightest material available, and then start the prototyping sequence over again using the cast bodies. Keep the master body shapes untouched for future use. You can produce templates for the drilling operations. There are various ways of achieving the drilling templates that are very efficient. Sorry if this post seems a little harsh, I really am trying to help. This is really a more in-depth version of what Mark has posted, one of the most experienced lure designers on TU. Worth reading and paying attention to. Dave
  6. Vodkaman


    Sfrye37 - I carve my masters from wood, and harden with a coat of D2T 30 min epoxy. You must make sure the follower is not sharp or too thin, or not pressing too hard on the master, otherwise it will cut ridges in the master after a few hundred runs. The pressure of the follower contact must be as light as possible without bouncing. Too heavy and the master will suffer ridges. Dave
  7. Vodkaman

    How do lips/bills work

    Mark - This is the theory behind it all. I don't know how significant the chamfer is, but the same goes for diving lures. If you take a perfectly balanced and tuned diver and then add the chamfer, you will likely find that the lure is now out of wack. Because the vortices are stronger, the lip pulls down to a slightly deeper angle. If the tow eye was positioned for maximum depth then the lure will no longer hit that depth. As for the lure getting down faster; yes, the slightly lower pressure behind the lip will pull down harder, making the lure dive faster. Dave
  8. Vodkaman

    How do lips/bills work

    With small lures, members discovered that very thin fiber/circuit board lips were more effective than thicker Lexan lips in creating waggle action. The thinner the lip, the better the action. The reason for this has not been discussed much, if at all. It is all about the sharp edge. Water can flow around a round object with minimum 'peeling off' of the flow, thus minimum disturbance of the water. Conversely, flow cannot negotiate a sharp corner; it cannot change direction that quickly. This causes a low pressure area behind the edge of the lip. Water gets sucked back into this low pressure area and thus the vortex is born. At very slow speeds, the shape of the water flow is symmetrical, the same both sides of the lure. But, as the lure speed increases, a certain speed is reached were the vortices start to interact. There is not enough room for the vortices to exist independently so they take turns. The vortices start to alternate, forming one side then the other. This effect is called ‘vortex shedding’, a ‘vortex street’ or ‘Kármán vortex street’. This alternating vortex is the engine that drives the lure, causing the desirable ‘waggle’ or action of the lure. This also explains why a lure has a minimum speed before the action starts. The sharper the edge is, the stronger the low pressure area, the stronger the vortex and therefore the stronger the action. Larger lures in the range of 8” and larger will require a thicker lip in order to survive bouncing off rocks with all that body weight behind. But the thicker lip is not going to produce as much action as the knife edge lip of the 3” lure. The solution is to cut a chamfer behind the lip face. This reintroduces the knife edge and improves the vortex strength and thus the action. Another way to improve action is to make the face of the lip concave. This causes pressure to build up in front of the lip which further increases the strength of the vortex. Here is a video that shows vortex shedding, and the start transition explaining the minimum speed. Dave
  9. Vodkaman

    making a mold

    I am happy that you found a solution that works for you. Great feedback, valuable information for anyone else starting out with this material. Dave
  10. Vodkaman

    Lure Design, what is it

    I have posted this here because only searching minds would find it. Everyone who ever built his/her own lure, strives to come up with something original, game changing, name in lights, millionaire. There is nothing wrong with dreams, and they are actually possible. You do not need a doctorate or a PHd to have an original game changing idea. I am a perfect example; I have only a humble HND qualification in aeronautical engineering, but I figured out one of the massive enigmas; what the function of fish scales was. Unfortunately, I was not the first to make this discovery, but I did make it independently. I also have other ideas not fishing related that are not proven as yet. My point is that you do not have to be scientifically qualified to make life changing discoveries. As members of the relatively uneducated masses, we have the same level of imagination as the geniuses of this world. Without the constraints of conformity, we have no rules to adhere to. Being a scientist or an expert is a distinct disadvantage. All we have to do is recognize a problem, a deficiency, an improvement, or in our case, a different lure action that will catch fish. One of my biggest bug-bears is people who tell us that there is nothing new, it has all been done before, and you are re-inventing the wheel. This is just not true. I am continually amazed at what past lure designers have come up with, but only now, in this technological age, are we starting to understand how things work. Fluid dynamics is a BIG statement, the study of which requires a mathematical mind of a genius. BUT, the understanding of the basic principles only requires the viewing of a few YouTube videos, no math required. Search for ‘vortex’, ‘vortex street’, ‘Kármán vortex street’, view the videos and you will already have the knowledge required to invent your new lure. Every lure’s action can be explained by vortex technology. Understand vortex technology and you are on your way. ‘Trial and error’ has always been the way with fishing lure design, but it does not have to be that way. The chances of hitting on a solution with trial and error are infinitely small compared with having the simple knowledge of vortex technology. Vortices are the driving force behind ALL fishing lures. Figure out the basics (not difficult) and then apply the knowledge to what you want to achieve (or talk to me). Dave
  11. Vodkaman

    History of tackleunderground

    I joined in 2007. Funny, I have no recollection of 'the good times', although I did have a solid circle of accommodating friends. I find today's TU far more friendly. I am not impressed with the over emphasis on painting blanks, but I feel that there is enough interest in the basics of lure design to keep the future bright. TU's future is assured. Dave
  12. Vodkaman


    JR - nope, never heard back from them. Still, more time for fishing. New PB two days ago, 5.72Kg (12.58Lbs) bawal. I caught two over 5Kg that day. Dave
  13. Vodkaman

    Trouble with crankbait action

    Also, indicate where you have placed the ballast. What density/type material used for the body. Dave
  14. Vodkaman

    Test Tank With Pump Here are a few to browse. Dave
  15. Vodkaman


    Using CAD models, direct into a duplicator really appeals to me. Speed is not an issue for me, so the dup in the video is looking very tasty, especially the detailing possibilities. Dave