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Vodkaman

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Everything posted by Vodkaman

  1. That's got me reaching for the frying pan.
  2. Hi Slider and welcome to TU. Don't worry about the English, we can all understand what you have written. Below is a tutorial, from the member submitted tutorials section. This excellent document should get you started. If their is anything that you don't understand, just post a question. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5195 A lot has been written on this subject, so you should find a wealth of information if you try the search function at the top of the page. But, you can always ask, if you cannot find what you are looking for.
  3. Unfortunately, the posting software has edited out the full link. Is their a search string that can be used?
  4. I'm with Dampeoples, I need to see a pic of the lure. C'mon, c'mon!
  5. Vodkaman

    Keep Epoxy

    Two part epoxy is a chemical reaction. So once it is mixed, it is going off, no matter what. You can slow it down by reducing temperature, but this might not be enough to solve your time problem.
  6. Read the recent thread on Dick Nites. I recon the same rules will apply. Don't let the excess drip back into the tin.
  7. The first two coats of the Elmers 50/50 will soak right into the plaster, so absolutely no detail is lost. If you pile extra unnecessary coats on, after the shiny finish has been achieved, then slight detail degredation will occur, but the coats are very thin. Many very experienced pourers swear by the Elmers method, so it should not be discounted until you have given it a proper try. But there is nothing wrong with the epoxy route either, it too has a strong following.
  8. Those look like they are about to flip right out of your hand! Very nice.
  9. No one has replied because probably no one has tried it! But believe me, people are interested. Don't get disheartened by the lack of response. I look forward to your findings. Once you have it, you will need to do some comparison tests with the epoxy, to guage if it is better or not. PM me or post for ideas on how to procede. It is all down to how deep you want to get.
  10. Mine seems to be working fine. I've sent you a photobucket pic to your PM. If it works, the problem is your end.
  11. Bravepiper. You have my respect too, for your chosen profession. I take your point, that inevitably, people will leave appliances running unattended. I just feel a real need to mention it, because we are talking home made equipment, using motors and electricity possibly beyond its design parameters and with no real knowledge.
  12. Bruce. Very nice job. Very tidy and presentable. What's an "ut shen"? Sorry, just could not resist.
  13. Pete, what do you mean 'it's not rocket science'. It will be, if I get my way!
  14. Motors do get hot anyway. There may be nothing wrong. If anyone thinks that I am wrong about this, then please step in. Any how, you should never leave a motor unattended.
  15. I used to do all the beer festivals, when I played in the band. We would get free tickets and as half the band didn't like beer, things often got blurry. I like Marsdens pedigree, and the occasional Bishops tipple, when I can find it.
  16. Have you thought of trying a tooth brush, dipped in paint and pull your thumb back across the bristles. Don't use your own brush, pick up one of the others in the bathroom!
  17. Vodkaman

    I'm back...

    Congratulations on the college thing, hope everything goes well there. It probably was a very good idea to break off completely from lure making, during this last important study year, as lure making can be extremely distracting. Welcome back and get reading!
  18. I have been away from this post, to do a little research on the subject. What I thought was fairly straight forward, turns out to be far more complicated. As we just want to make a bait suspend on a cold day, I see no advantage in getting heavy on the subject. There is nothing wrong that has been discussed on this thread so far, apart from Rookie changing his mind half way through. The buoyancy of the lure depends on the density of the water AND the average density of the lure. Consider the water. The density is affected by temperature, depth and salinity. Temperature. As temperature increases, molecules move faster and the water becomes lighter or less dense and the buoyancy of the lure relative to the water, decreases (it sinks). As temperature decreases, molecules slow down, water becomes thicker, the density increases. The buoyancy of the lure relative to the water increases (it floats). Salinity. Everyone knows, that if you swim in the dead sea (very salty), it is easy to float, so no need for further discussion. Accept, if you set your lure in tap water, to suspend. Regardless of temperature, don't expect it to behave the same at the lake, as the salinity will not be the same. Even fresh water has salts in it. Depth. I found lots of information on temperature and salinity, but very little on depth. But the pressure of depth would compress the molecules and have the same effect as cooling and the density would increase, thus the buoyancy of the lure would increase. Summary. The deeper the lure swims, the cooler the water gets, the saltier the water gets, the more the lure wants to float. BUT, this is only half the story. Consider the lure. This is where things start to get more complicated. At one end of the scale, we have hard shelled bodies. These include hollow plastic bodies, 16lb foam bodies and resin/micro-balloon bodies. These bodies can be considered incompressible. So the average density of these lures remains constant. This means that only the water properties need to be considered i.e. lower temperature and more salt means more buoyancy or float. At the other end of the scale, are soft bodies. These include hollow soft shelled bodies and balsa bodies. These bodies are compressible. As the body is compressed, its average density increases. So the deeper the lure swims, the more pressure the body feels and the body is compressed or squeezed and its density increases. As the density increases, its buoyancy decreases and the lure will want to sink. A good example of this is the human body. Snorkeling is accepted to be safe down to a depth of 32ft. The reason for this is that the body, with a lung full of air, will tend to float upwards. But at depths greater than 32ft, the pressure of the water on the lungs, compresses the air. This reduces the average density of our body. The result is that after 32ft, the body sinks and you have to fight your way back to the surface. In addition, the air inside the lure changes volume, due to temperature. This shrinking of the air as the temperature drops, also causes the average density of the lure to increase and reduces the buoyancy of the lure. It would be possible to have a soft bodied lure, tuned to suspend just below the surface, but as the lure dives deep, it loses its buoyancy and would sink further, rather than trying to return to the suspension depth. Even the shape of the body is significant. A deep, flat sided body would be more susceptible to compression than a ‘cigar’ shaped body. Summary. The deeper the lure swims, the more the lure wants to sink. So the effect of water and the effect of compressed air in the body, contradict each other. This could explain some of the anomalies posted on this subject in the past. The big question is which effect is stronger. I was unable to find any tables of depth/density figures. My guess, is that compressible bodies would feel the most effect. Density changes in the water due to depth would have the least effect. But the really important considerations would be temperature and salinity. Hardly BS, but what do we gain from the above information? Certainly no practical help. It explains that a bait rigged as a suspender will only suspend at the required depth on one lake and as long as the temperature does not change. But so what. The purpose of tuning a bait to suspend, is to get some hang time, so when you stop the retrieve, it does not sink like a stone or pop to the surface like a cork. If it slowly rises or falls, the aim is achieved. Something else to consider, are temperature variations through the depth of a lake. The temperature from top to bottom is not a gradual change, but a fairly sudden change. This sudden change of temperature is called the thermocline. There are a bunch of other “clines” to read about too! The floating, warmer water above the thermocline gets blown about the lake on a windy day. So, temperature of the water at the lake side with the big waves, will be warmer. It is also conceivable that the fish would hang around the thermocline, or just above it, for favorable conditions (I read this somewhere a long time ago). A lot of what I have discussed in this post, has already been discussed by others in this thread, but it took so long to write this, I wasn’t going to edit it down again, so apologies for any duplication. I’m sure I have probably made a mistake or two above and said sink when I should have said swim. At least it will give the technophobes something to pick holes in. It beats reading another Devcon sales pitch and I did learn a few things on the journey.
  19. There was a recent post on this very subject. The problem is getting your 'baked' clay master out of the PoP. As this is the plastics forum, I am assuming something long and thin. Baked clay is brittle and will inevitably snap. The consensus of opinion was to go with soft clay. This will means that you might have to massage your master if you intend to re-use, but you could just as easily use your plastic pours as future masters.
  20. Bruce, it is called "getting old", why do you think I prefer my equatorial abode.
  21. Yeah! I thought I was going to save money too. Be very, very careful. Once you get really sucked in, there is no escape!
  22. Don't judge England by what you saw in London. It is a sub-normal country to itself. Having said that, I spend little time in the UK these days, preferring the equatorial climates. You are handy with tools, you should consider making some of your own lures. Spend a little time, read from each of the forums and decide which you would like to try. Your background suggests hard baits would be a convenient place to start. But, be warned, lure making is severely addictive.
  23. Brian, use this as an opportunity to claim your own space. The basement sounds ideal. Clear it out, paint the walls white, fit some tailored lights to your precise needs, make some work benches and fit a lock on the door. Peg boards for your tools, sound insulated box for the compressor, extractor system, Fridge, TV, sofa! You have to think of the cup as being half full, not half empty.
  24. Kribman. I have the same problem. Devcon is not available in my local store and so I tried other brands of epoxy. They are all slightly different in their hardened properties. If you can dig your nail in, then look on the bright side, the finish won't crack or shatter when it hits the rocks. It may even be useful against the teeth. If you are not selling the lures, use it and keep looking for the devcon, or try the dick Nites that everyone raves about.
  25. The notches problem sounds similar to a thread from a couple of weeks ago. That was a one piece mold. The problem was the flow was halted, a skin formed, then the flow was resumed, leaving a notch. Could this be the same thing?
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