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Everything posted by Vodkaman

  1. Vodkaman


    Crashed my bicycle a few days ago, and smashed my hip joint pretty bad. It just highlights the importance of a quality hard top coat. Alas, this soft bait goes under the saw tomorrow for a hip replacement - wish me luck Dave
  2. Vodkaman


    Here is a vid of me fishing, capturing a 4.58Kg bawal, a shade over 10Lbs. You can see a slight limp, but I am moving just fine. I had been sitting motionless for 30 minutes. Once I get moving everything is now normal. Dave
  3. Vodkaman

    Drilling Dowel for Tail Hanger

    I would make a jig for this job. You could probably do 10 dowels at a time. 1 - two identical blocks of a hard wood fixed together with locating pins. 2 - drill series of pilot holes down the join face. 3 - drill dowel holes to correct depth for length. The obvious problem with this jig; is the dowel slug rotating during pilot drilling. I would fix this by coating the dowel holes with contact adhesive or other rubber cement to add grip. Insert the dowel blanks, close and clamp the jig. Drill the centre holes with a hand drill or drill press. A jig can also be made for cutting the dowels to the correct length; a simple block with a dowel hole. An additional small through hole for an ejector pin. Clamp block in bench vice, insert dowel, cut with hacksaw, eject with pin (nail). Dave
  4. Vodkaman


    Sfrye37 - in that case, a mold might be a good idea. Also remember that Bondo filler is your friend in this game. If you make a mistake on your master, you can add a coat of Bondo over the fault, and sand down as required. Dave
  5. Having been so critical, I now feel the need to explain why. I spent hundreds of hours and as many prototypes trying to develop a consistent hunter. Having achieved the hunter, I cast the body, built the lure and it failed badly, for all the reasons that I mentioned. As it happened, I was on the wrong track anyway, but that does not diminish the importance of transferring your prototype data to your final lure, with accuracy. For future reference; Choose your final materials be it wood or cast material, and use these materials for your prototyping. Time is too valuable to squander it away needlessly. Dave
  6. I think you are going about this all wrong. Presumably, you have done a prototype out of wood, added ballast weights to achieve the sink rate and the action that you are looking for. You were successful and achieved everything you wanted out of your lure. I won't guess at how many prototypes you built, I can only judge on how many it took me to achieve exactly what I was looking for. Jointed baits are complicated enough, so eliminating all that carving is a very good idea. BUT, it was the combination of the wood density, the amount and position of the ballast that gave you exactly what you were looking for. Now, you are ignoring the wood density, throwing out all the ballast parameters, and trying to produce a neutral density material, and hoping that the lure will swim exactly as your prototype did. Swimbaits and gliders are particularly sensitive to ballast. The chances of achieving the success of your prototypes using a neutral density material to replace the ballast is not zero, but not far off. Roman swimbaits have a very complex ballast system. I know because I have worked on something very similar for a customer. The idea being that you can snip off various elements of the ballast casting in order to achieve a certain characteristic; float, neutral, slow sink and fast sink, achieving these characteristics from a single casting of the ballast. Do not ignore the importance of ballast or the density of the body material of the prototype. I suggest that you cast the lightest material available, and then start the prototyping sequence over again using the cast bodies. Keep the master body shapes untouched for future use. You can produce templates for the drilling operations. There are various ways of achieving the drilling templates that are very efficient. Sorry if this post seems a little harsh, I really am trying to help. This is really a more in-depth version of what Mark has posted, one of the most experienced lure designers on TU. Worth reading and paying attention to. Dave
  7. Vodkaman


    Sfrye37 - I carve my masters from wood, and harden with a coat of D2T 30 min epoxy. You must make sure the follower is not sharp or too thin, or not pressing too hard on the master, otherwise it will cut ridges in the master after a few hundred runs. The pressure of the follower contact must be as light as possible without bouncing. Too heavy and the master will suffer ridges. Dave
  8. Vodkaman

    How do lips/bills work

    With small lures, members discovered that very thin fiber/circuit board lips were more effective than thicker Lexan lips in creating waggle action. The thinner the lip, the better the action. The reason for this has not been discussed much, if at all. It is all about the sharp edge. Water can flow around a round object with minimum 'peeling off' of the flow, thus minimum disturbance of the water. Conversely, flow cannot negotiate a sharp corner; it cannot change direction that quickly. This causes a low pressure area behind the edge of the lip. Water gets sucked back into this low pressure area and thus the vortex is born. At very slow speeds, the shape of the water flow is symmetrical, the same both sides of the lure. But, as the lure speed increases, a certain speed is reached were the vortices start to interact. There is not enough room for the vortices to exist independently so they take turns. The vortices start to alternate, forming one side then the other. This effect is called ‘vortex shedding’, a ‘vortex street’ or ‘Kármán vortex street’. This alternating vortex is the engine that drives the lure, causing the desirable ‘waggle’ or action of the lure. This also explains why a lure has a minimum speed before the action starts. The sharper the edge is, the stronger the low pressure area, the stronger the vortex and therefore the stronger the action. Larger lures in the range of 8” and larger will require a thicker lip in order to survive bouncing off rocks with all that body weight behind. But the thicker lip is not going to produce as much action as the knife edge lip of the 3” lure. The solution is to cut a chamfer behind the lip face. This reintroduces the knife edge and improves the vortex strength and thus the action. Another way to improve action is to make the face of the lip concave. This causes pressure to build up in front of the lip which further increases the strength of the vortex. Here is a video that shows vortex shedding, and the start transition explaining the minimum speed. Dave
  9. Vodkaman

    How do lips/bills work

    Mark - This is the theory behind it all. I don't know how significant the chamfer is, but the same goes for diving lures. If you take a perfectly balanced and tuned diver and then add the chamfer, you will likely find that the lure is now out of wack. Because the vortices are stronger, the lip pulls down to a slightly deeper angle. If the tow eye was positioned for maximum depth then the lure will no longer hit that depth. As for the lure getting down faster; yes, the slightly lower pressure behind the lip will pull down harder, making the lure dive faster. Dave
  10. Vodkaman

    making a mold

    I am happy that you found a solution that works for you. Great feedback, valuable information for anyone else starting out with this material. Dave
  11. Vodkaman

    Lure Design, what is it

    I have posted this here because only searching minds would find it. Everyone who ever built his/her own lure, strives to come up with something original, game changing, name in lights, millionaire. There is nothing wrong with dreams, and they are actually possible. You do not need a doctorate or a PHd to have an original game changing idea. I am a perfect example; I have only a humble HND qualification in aeronautical engineering, but I figured out one of the massive enigmas; what the function of fish scales was. Unfortunately, I was not the first to make this discovery, but I did make it independently. I also have other ideas not fishing related that are not proven as yet. My point is that you do not have to be scientifically qualified to make life changing discoveries. As members of the relatively uneducated masses, we have the same level of imagination as the geniuses of this world. Without the constraints of conformity, we have no rules to adhere to. Being a scientist or an expert is a distinct disadvantage. All we have to do is recognize a problem, a deficiency, an improvement, or in our case, a different lure action that will catch fish. One of my biggest bug-bears is people who tell us that there is nothing new, it has all been done before, and you are re-inventing the wheel. This is just not true. I am continually amazed at what past lure designers have come up with, but only now, in this technological age, are we starting to understand how things work. Fluid dynamics is a BIG statement, the study of which requires a mathematical mind of a genius. BUT, the understanding of the basic principles only requires the viewing of a few YouTube videos, no math required. Search for ‘vortex’, ‘vortex street’, ‘Kármán vortex street’, view the videos and you will already have the knowledge required to invent your new lure. Every lure’s action can be explained by vortex technology. Understand vortex technology and you are on your way. ‘Trial and error’ has always been the way with fishing lure design, but it does not have to be that way. The chances of hitting on a solution with trial and error are infinitely small compared with having the simple knowledge of vortex technology. Vortices are the driving force behind ALL fishing lures. Figure out the basics (not difficult) and then apply the knowledge to what you want to achieve (or talk to me). Dave
  12. Vodkaman

    History of tackleunderground

    I joined in 2007. Funny, I have no recollection of 'the good times', although I did have a solid circle of accommodating friends. I find today's TU far more friendly. I am not impressed with the over emphasis on painting blanks, but I feel that there is enough interest in the basics of lure design to keep the future bright. TU's future is assured. Dave
  13. Vodkaman


    JR - nope, never heard back from them. Still, more time for fishing. New PB two days ago, 5.72Kg (12.58Lbs) bawal. I caught two over 5Kg that day. Dave
  14. Vodkaman

    Trouble with crankbait action

    Also, indicate where you have placed the ballast. What density/type material used for the body. Dave
  15. Vodkaman

    Test Tank With Pump Here are a few to browse. Dave
  16. Vodkaman


    Using CAD models, direct into a duplicator really appeals to me. Speed is not an issue for me, so the dup in the video is looking very tasty, especially the detailing possibilities. Dave
  17. Vodkaman


    That machine, adapting a 3 axis into a 2 axis function is pretty much what I had in mind, the 3rd axis being the rotation. Obviously the machine in the video is capable of great detail, but this comes at the expense of speed. For turning out featureless bodies, my machine would still use the rotating saw cutter as used in the angle grinder type machine. I will view the other videos at my leisure. Great information, thanks for posting. Dave
  18. Vodkaman

    Any "REAL" custom crank bait makers left?

    BlackCrow13 - I understand your points about sharing, and also that you are not alone in this opinion. Also understand that I am not knocking you or anyone else. Perhaps because I am not in the business of selling baits, I am very much the opposite in my sharing views and opinions. In fact, when I was very active on the building scene, I would take on projects purely to solve a problem, and then publish the solution. Not all of my projects were successful, but I published my findings regardless. When I read back on some of them, I cringe now I think it is OK to have a few defining trade secrets, but don't let the newcomers drown. Be active, throw them a helping lifeline, or two if required. In my time on TU, I have taken on a few beginners and made them my project, spoon feeding them you might say. Some went on to be experts in their own right. Many think this is about 'attaboys' and smileys, yes, appreciation is nice but is not what drives me. Some projects took hundreds of hours with virtually no feedback, and that is OK too. Other than the fundamental principle of TU, and my search for personal knowledge, I cannot answer the question 'why?' Oh, and it is fun Dave
  19. Vodkaman

    Hard Tail

    The sharp edge of the thin plate makes all the difference, creating a strong, defined vortex at a lower speed. This has given me an idea for a bait myself. At the pond that I competition fish, I am only allowed to use tapioca jelly. I reckon I can cut a slab into strips and cut some tail plates from plastic water bottles. The jelly is fairly delicate so the baits won't last long. I could even save the tails with some fine mono tied to the hook (just thinking as I type). It will cost nothing in money or effort to give it a go, and technically I will be within the rules Dave
  20. Vodkaman


    Is that a CNC duplicator machine? That would be the ultimate duplicator; no speed restrictions, no bounce, 0.25mm resolution or finer. I speculate that 10 cuts per second might be possible with vibration damping. That would produce a 3" body in 30 seconds, with a resolution of 0.25mm, not requiring any post processing other than rounding the nose. With twin cutters that time would be halved. I have such a machine in my head but have no CNC experience required to build and program the beast. TBO I am surprised the big manufacturing houses haven't built this before now. Dave
  21. Vodkaman

    Trouble with crankbait action

    Post some picks here, so we can see what you have done so far. This will help us to help you Dave
  22. Vodkaman


    I like the angle grinder solution. The only problem is the surface finish. You should show a close-up of the finished blank so that members can see what they are essentially dealing with, what they can expect. The finish is determined by the thread pitch of the drive. The standard pitch is 1mm. If you could obtain a drive screw with a 0.5mm pitch then the finish would be good enough not to need any post processing of the blanks. Unfortunately, the drive screw has to be of sufficient diameter so that 'bending' does not come into the equation. The speed of the drive screw also has limitations. Too fast and the stylus (master follower) will bounce. I found the limit to be between 60 - 65rpm. This gives about 1" per minute. Allowing for a couple of minutes for resetting and loading another stock blank, gives 12 - 15 blanks per minute. Post processing (flap wheel) is about 2 - 3 minutes per blank, giving about 6 minutes work per blank. So, on average, 10 blanks an hour for a 3" lure. This is obviously not mass production standards, but as a prototype engineer, I can spend a day at the machine and produce 50 identical blanks without driving myself crazy with the machine. Enough to keep me busy for a few weeks of testing. For a low production process, you could probably do 200 lures completed per week with painting and assembly. Here is a pic of the product of one session on the dup machine after post processing. I did these for a paying customer. He declared that he was not satisfied and refused to pay. Experience told me that the blank bodies were too deep and thin, I guess he found out the hard way. Not as hard as I found out. Money up front next time, but I doubt there will ever be a next time. My time is too valuable. I sold myself short and got screwed. Yes, he was a TU member. Dave
  23. Vodkaman


    Woe! quite a bashing you took, sorry to hear about that. I am doing fine, but I don't think 100% is achievable without a lot more work on my part. I am cycling and fishing, so my life is certainly back to normal, better than I expected anyway. Now 17 weeks in, next doctors appointment in March, probably the final one. Dave
  24. Vodkaman

    Where does everyone get their blanks from?

    Pretty much all of these bodies are coming from China, no matter where you buy them from. I have worked in China (non-lure related) and visited many small part factories in the course of my design work. Not all small manufacturers are equal. There are those who produce an accurate shape, but know absolutely nothing about lures. Consequently, the lures do not swim as intended. Others get the swim right but fail to allow for the addition of a topcoat, which changes everything. And then there are companies that know what they are doing, took advice and produce a good product. The girls on the high intensity production line know nothing about your requirements, they are simply trying to keep up and make their quotas. Quality control is often lacking, and so you should expect a few leaky bodies. But, if the lure does not swim right, time to find a new supplier. There is plenty of good advice regards suppliers, see above post(s). I used to be extremely critical of this section of lure 'building', but now I am forced to accept its inclusion in our 'hobby'. Painting is a skill I admire deeply. Still, give me a block of wood any day Dave
  25. Jonister - 'Like', good comments. Dave