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Everything posted by Vodkaman

  1. I bought a new circular saw. Its layout was slightly different to my old one. First time of using I touched the side of the blade. Fortunately it only ripped my nail off! Correct, no alcohol, except as a disinfectant Dave
  2. Oh yes, that'll do the trick. Still plenty of room to move around. You shouldn't be working the far side anyway, extremely dangerous. Keep your sleeves rolled up when working the router. Dave
  3. Vodkaman

    Topwater Wood

    The wood needs to be light enough to support some ballast to keep the lure upright and stable, and strong enough to hold screw eyes. I suggest anything with a density of 0.35 - 0.45g/cm3. There are plenty of wood lists with this information obtained with a simple Google search. Regardless of top or sink, all my lures are built with 0.35g/cm3. Albesia is a very cheap and light construction wood that works well for me. I doubt you will find it over there. Dave
  4. I never did add dust collection to my table router. There are two methods; top fence or underside box. There are plenty of videos on YouTube. here is a good video explaining the underside box method. Dave
  5. I weigh my plaster molds on a gram scale. When the mold stops losing weight in the drying process then the mold is 'dry'. From personal experimentation; PoP loses weight at a constant rate, there is no gradual slowing down of the weight loss, so it is very easy to determine the dry point. I mention this because over drying in the oven can make the mold powdery. A cracked open oven works well, but the ideal rapid method is a warm box with fan circulation. I used 3x 100W incandescent (filament) bulbs as the heat source. If you make a lot of molds, this simple wood construction oven is worth building. Dave
  6. BBK - you are correct. I was thinking of a different type of blade with axial rotation Dave
  7. A immediate solution that will allow you to use your existing stocks of rings; grind the blades to reduce the edge distance to the hole. Not a popular solution I am sure, but the blade is under no load to speak of, and this operation should not affect function. Dave
  8. Azsouth - don't blame me, it's Smalljaw's fault Dave
  9. I did build a painting stand based on my tapered insert rods. It sat in a BIG bearing on the base for easy rotation. It actually rotated in 2 axes for total flexibility. But, I abandoned painting before ever trying it out. I am looking forward to seeing what you come up with Dave
  10. Nwbass - Well, it does sound as though you have touched all the bases. I don't think they make SS rings, the material just wouldn't work. If your assembly speed is good (15 secs), then it is time to move on to other manufacturers and sizes. I can't think of any more ideas to try! Dave
  11. I too am liking the PVC cap idea. Very innovative, good thinking. I used the same principle with tapered clamp rods that pushed into holes on the wheel. But, I had to manufacture the rods. The 'cap' method will give a mounting sturdy enough for jointed swim-baits. I know this because I have used push-on joints on another project with sturdy success. Dave
  12. Smalljaw - I think you are right. In the early days I used to suffer sprung rings a lot. But, as my ring technique improved, the problem went away. Speed is always my motivation, I considered the ring assembly a challenge, to get the ring on with as few movements as possible. You also stated that it might 'sound stupid', and I agree. From an engineering point of view, it is a Young's modulus thing; exceed the bending limit and spring-back is incomplete. But it seems that time of stress is also relevant but I didn't think that such a short time would be significant. Obviously IT IS! I never did figure out why I had so many failures and none now, so thanks. Another thing that might improve the assembly is heat. I am not talking about using a flame as you might disturb the temper of the steel. I am suggesting gripping the ring with the split ring pliers without opening, dunking in boiling water for 5 seconds, then perform the assembly. If a few seconds make a difference, this may buy you a few more seconds. It won't cost anything to try. Dave
  13. rockyj2 - Yes.Gorilla wood glue is a PVA adhesive, same as Elmers. Dave
  14. I will likely use a flap lid with a couple of buckle connectors, these can be flipped open with one hand. Also, the connectors can be used for a completely removable shoulder strap should it ever be required. A couple of elasticated partitions for my leaky bait boxes to prevent them flipping over and making a mess.
  15. Google images have just about everything you need. I have used a couple for profiles. I can input the image into my CAD program and then trace around. Dave
  16. Five newborn kittens, unlimited supply of soft fur Dave
  17. Thanks Wayne. It is all knowledge whether from a book or experience. Which is better? - I would have to say experience. But, add the two together and you have something even more powerful. Dave
  18. This is a great project, I am enthused. I have made do with commercial bags to contain my fishing gear, none of which were very convenient. Also, the bag must be secured to my bicycle for transport. I don't have to walk more than 50yds and so shoulder straps are not necessary. It would be nice to have a more compact and robust carrier as my current bag (sports type) is way too big and flops all over the place. I will look at my gear and follow your lead. Thanks for posting this. Dave
  19. Mark - good job, you have the hunt problem beaten into submission. I am already re-thinking the 3rd harmonic pendulum hypothesis as this puts the ballast too low. I am sure there will be something there but building a lure around it would be a problem. I will still pursue the lazy 'S' motion independently. My current thoughts for the wild hunt; is that the CoG must be in line with the roll rotation axis; a line drawn from the tow eye perpendicular to the lip. This still places the ballast very low, which is in line with what I remember of the bait from 12 years ago. This is still triple point; combining yaw, roll and pitch. Still hypothesis though as I have been a little tardy in moving on to the second prototype, probably due to apprehension. For the second prototype I am using one of a batch of fifty bodies that were rejected by a customer. I would be loving the irony if the rejected body produced the first Triple Point Hunter Dave
  20. Love your vids. BUT, this is useless without a vid of the action - sorry! Dave
  21. Goolies - thanks for the software link, it looks really exciting for someone like me. I have downloaded and will have a play when I free up some time. I have tested my first prototype; I did get some lazy 'S' motion, but apart from that, not much else. However, I know what changes to make to proto-2. The problem is that I am working with a 2" body, and my test pool only has a diagonal of 39". I positioned the ballast too far forward and had to wrap some solder wire around the tail in order to level the body, but there was not enough room for the 70 degree lip to work. Next, I chose a parallel lip for proto-1, a bad decision as not enough roll motion was imparted to really work the ballast pendulum. Stupid really, as a big feature of the lure I remember; had a wide and angled profile. I need to put proto-2 together more carefully. It will have a 60 degree lip angle and an angled profile. I will keep proto-1 separate, even though it was built for easy modification, with adjustable ballast and push-in lips. Also, I might just make a full history video of the process if I am successful. I will be taking my time so don't expect results tomorrow. A lot of thought is going in to this project, I will work at my own pace. But, I will bring you honest feedback as I do not want to waste anyone's time. Dave
  22. Triple Point Hunting Harmonics To understand the erratic motion predicted by the Triple Point Hunter hypothesis (unproven theory) you must understand the harmonics of the various movements. Diagram – the grid (green) is marked in half cycles. Waggle (yaw) is colored red, roll is colored blue, porpoise (pitch) is colored purple. The waggle (red) is the base frequency which roll and pitch are tuned to. For a regular, straight swimming lure, the ballast never gets low enough to flip the roll to the 3rd harmonic, and so the roll oscillates at the same frequency as the yaw (waggle). When the lure is burned fast enough to hunt, the pitch hits a high harmonic (7th or 9th). This causes the lure to twitch but not visibly zigzag. As speed increases further, the harmonic will switch to a lower number, 5th then 3rd. These result in the zigzag that we are all familiar with, the 3rd harmonic giving a narrow hunt, 5th and higher giving wider hunts. As speed is further increased the pitch will hit the first harmonic resulting in pure pitch (porpoise action) with no waggle. The roll can be tuned to these harmonics also, by lowering the ballast. But, the only harmonic practical to reach is the 3rd, after that, the ballast position would be too low to be practical. The top diagram shows the pitch and roll tuned to the 3rd harmonic. You can see that every 3rd waggle, all the forces align giving a strong, regular side movement, but with smaller forces causing small irregularities with each waggle which should result in a slight erratic action. If the speed is reduced slightly from this regular-ish hunt, the pitch will hit the 5th harmonic, shown in the bottom diagram. This will give a much wider hunt, and also, at each waggle the roll forces will drag the lure different amounts, only coming into true alignment every 15 waggles. This will be the truly erratic action. Both the diagrams are Triple Point Hunting (TPH) actions. I will call these TPH-3 and TPH-5. I predict that both of these actions will be available with minute adjustments to the cranking speed, TPH-5 being the slightly slower and wilder action. The diagram is only a 2D representation. BUT, I did mention that the erratic action that I saw back in 2007, the lure was also moving up and down. This is caused by the rotation of the 3rd harmonic roll whereas the pitch and yaw are basically in the horizontal plane. At each waggle, the roll is going to drag the lure up and down at varying amounts. Dave
  23. BobP - I agree, a plain straight swimmer in the hands of an experienced 'crankist' with plenty of cover to work with, will be as good, if not better than any hunting lure. If anything, this 'Triple Point' hunter will be designed for shallow swimming were there is no cover, such as the water that I fish. But for me, the project has very little to do with fishing. It was all about reading a TU article back in 2007 which implied that hunting baits could not be built consistently. I proved that statement wrong by understanding hunting, and building a series of ten lures were 9 hunted and I mucked up the tuning of the tenth. My current interest is based on an action that I stumbled across in 2007 and could not explain, also people wanting a more erratic hunting action. The Triple Point hunter will be the solution, a lure that erratically dances on a straight retrieve, and dances in such a way that cannot be emulated by a crankist with a plain lure. Two new lures are going to emerge from this project; the Triple Point hunter and a second lure with a lazy 'S' action, neither action has been seen before. It remains to be seen if the fish will go for either, I think the TPH will catch fish, the Lazy 'S' possibly, but on a heavily fished water, it will be something new. Dave
  24. How fast do you crank your lures, say on a steady retrieve? For a guide; my reel cranks at around 1m per turn of the handle. My speed is between 1 - 1.5 cranks per second. The reason I ask is that I did some mathematics, and speed makes a big difference in the ballast weight position. The slower the speed, the lower the ballast has to be. The slowest speed that gives barely reasonable numbers for ballast position is 1.5m/s, any slower and the body shape becomes real deep and ugly. I just want your thoughts. I actually have very little experience cranking, I just design them Dave
  25. You have to anneal the brass before working the shape. Google 'annealing brass', lots of good articles on the subject. The act of working the brass automatically hardens the brass, so you may have to anneal several times while working the shape. Here is a excerpt: ' The process of hardening and annealing brass is exactly the reverse of that used with steel. Brass is hardened when it is heated and allowed to cool slowly ; it is softened or annealed when heated and cooled suddenly. When annealing brass, care should be taken that it is evenly heated throughout and that it is evenly cooled.' Dave
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