Vodkaman

I'm sorry, but something does not seem right here. Are we really talking 9 revs per second? Don't you find you get an air bubble problem as it flies across the room! I hope you have gotten everything bolted down real solid, before throwing the go switch.

It would work, but would take a lot longer without the airflow. The required temperature for ideal drying is 120°F . This temperature is little more than a hot room. The introduction of moving air keep the humidity at the PoP surface low and promote evaporation. All comercial ovens are based around an airflow.

The above feature is misbehaving. It is showing that everyone is viewing photoplog, something I never do! Just thought I'd mention it, incase something nefarious was occuring.

Cheesehead. I have never tried injection. I just felt it my duty to pass on the message from the soft baits forum, were quite a few have tried it and have very strong opinions on the safety. Many have received burns. I suspect many of the hard bait forum followers rarely wander into the soft plastics forum and would miss this valuable information.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Primary_color This pretty well covers the subject.

Robert, ALL bridges are impressive. Also, the picture of the arch that I posted, I had to do the wind speed and pressure loads for it. They were VERY scary numbers. It has passed the test and survived several storms in the 70 - 80mph. I calculated that it was good for 110 - 120. If the wind got up to that speed, I doubt anyone will be taking a stroll in the park!

Sounds like she (V1.0) scared the sharks away!

It is best to take the surface down gradually using finer and finer wet-n-dry emery, dipped in soapy water. The water stops it from clogging up. Finally a buffing wheel with a light cutting compound. Buffing wheels can remove material faster than you think and will leave a rippled surface if you are not careful. Keep the wheel moving and don't press. This method will remove scratches, but it will never be as good as the original. Hoodaddy's method might be the way to go, as the clear fills the scratch grooves. Try the methods out on a piece of scrap to get a feel for each method.

I read an article a while back that there was some hormone trace in female pubic hair that somehow attracted feeding fish. So, in the spirit of TU, pushing the boundaries of fishing science, I suggested the idea to my wife. I didn't see her again for nearly three weeks, she went back to her mothers place.

I would definately consider investing in a cheap, second hand microwave. Soooo much easier to control the heating process. Yes, you can heat the plastic on a hot plate. The beauty of a microwave is that if you get distracted, it switches itself off with the timer, hot plates don't. Now I am looking for a decorator and bought a dedicated microwave (no food allowed).

Del, you are correct, but it is the same thing. Ft-Lb is a unit of energy or work, when something is rotating, it is called torque. It is all the same thing and comes back to moments, lever principal, Force(Lbs) x distance (ins). 30 inch pounds is 1LB at 30ins or 30Lb at 1in. Therefore, at 2ins it would be 15Lbs and at 4ins 7.5Lbs.

Good question, but I cannot think of anything. Their probably is, because the computer has to calculate what pixels to light on your screen. I know that uses some really heavy math.

What do you think induced that dream state. Bruce. Funniest thing I have ever read!

Sounds like a good decision to me.

30 inch pounds means that the machine has enough torque to move a one pound force around at a distance of 30 inches. Applying moments (force x distance), this means at a radius of 5 inches, the motor is capable of moving 6 pounds around, a 4 inch radius would move 7.5 pounds. I think that the motor could be capable of doing the job. If the paddle was not a solid plate, but fingered, then even less load would be moved. But, I have never tried to stir half a gallon of plastic! I would be thinking about the speed, is one rev per second too fast. What speed do others use. I respect Dels input, he deals with motors and real engineering on a daily basis, whereas I deal in theory. But you now have all the facts. If the motor is really cheap, it could be worth a try.

Another possibility is a clear epoxy or resin lens, black card dot and white silicone backing, moulded as above. This gains the best of all the materials, chrystal clear lens and flexible, concave mount. I am working on the moulds and will report back in a few days.

I'll stick to vodka and taxi's, they mix better.

No, it's a gasoline replacement thing (so they say), it just tickled me. Looks like a great selection of projects, pity you have to pay for them. Nothing is for free, except here on TU! Before investing in the Eee book and construction materials, you should research the plastic materials and their forming requirements. Like I said, plain old pouring will probably be all you require.

Build an alcohol still, like it!

Balsa is really too soft to use screw eyes. The first descent fish to test your lure will steal your hook. Balsa lures generally have a through wire system, a length of brass or soft stainless steel wire which runs down the middle of the body. Try a search on hangers or "through wire", should give you plenty of reading. I would not bother painting the lure. Too much testing will have to be done. It may take a couple of tries before you get it right, then you can paint it. I suggest you read up on hangers, think about it, then come back with more questions.

I would be vary careful here. Try a TU search in 'injector'. This system of heating plastic (325 deg F) and injecting has been discussed a lot recently. The general concensus of opinion is that it is extremely dangerous. Many have purchased the equipment and stored it in the bin, considering it too dangerous to sell to some other unsuspecting soul. I don't see how injecting the plastic would help you anyway, unless the item you wish to cast is very complicated. Plain pouring will do the job, as the plastics guys do it. Whether the thermoplastic is available in a rigid form, I don't know. It is bound to be, somewhere. If you go this route, you should post your findings, as you will be breaking new ground. Good luck with your venture and keep the questions comming.

A very magnanimous post. My respect for you has only increased.

Just managed to see the photo's, my system is not good, unlike your drier, which is excellent. Great design.

a fairly angry PM sent.

The manns 10+ looks like a separate lip to me. You could pour it as one piece with polyester resin with microballoons, but this material is very brittle. The Manns 10+ looks like it will be getting down deep and consequently trying to break a few rocks. I doubt it would survive in its current shape. If the transition from the body to the lip was smoothed out, making it more of a 1 piece with the body shape morphing into the lip shape, it might have a better chance. There are other materials for pouring that would probably be more suited to this application, but I cannot advise as I have not used them, alumilite springs to mind.