Macsmallie

Ive finished a few of the DT10's, they look good, I glue the bill first because for me its faster to align the bill, I have not ran these in open water yet, this weekend for sure, but my test in my fish tank beside an orginal look real good...

I just did my second order from Predator Bass Baits, IMO these are the best blanks Ive used, Like stated below they are not luckycrafts, you have to tune them and sometimes add or subtract weight to get the action your looking for. I use my aquarium to test before paint and finish, so there are no surprises down the road. Hey Predator looking forward to new bodies, keep them comin.

If its the springer 100 then ive worked with that bait before, they are heavy without hardware. You'll have to remove some keel weight to increase bouyancy, Like in the earlyer post drill the keel and install dowls, The keel in that bait is right in front of the front hook hanger, its about 1/2" long. by removing 4 1/8" holes the bait will float more horizontal. Then i use lead wire on front hook to make suspend.. good luck!!!

One bait I held up to a desk lamp and I can see the keel or counterweight in the nose section, I drilled 4 holes thru it and plugged with the wood dowl. Man that was the ticket It really made the differance.. thanks

I kinda figured that an empty chamber would be the best, I need to get more detailed, What im doing is reworking a hard swimbait to be about 1" shorter, like 3" long instead of 4", This makes that swimbait a lot more interesting to our little Ohio bass. When im done with mods, paint and top coat it makes the floater model into a slow sink (not a problem) but i can think of times when the floater would be the best.. actually i would like them all to float and add weight when needed. I had one that i drilled 4 - 1/8" holes evenly spaced from the hook hanger to the line tie and installed 4 wood dowls, this seemed to help, but i think its because the keel weight is located in this area so it lighten it up some and also ballance the lure out. used smaller split rings and smaller lighter hook.

Is there some material that you can inject into a crankbait body to make it more bouyant than just an open air space? Something like Plumbers caulk or similar? Mostly on suspending jerks afer paint and D2t top coat, they seem to sink and not suspend, im thinking i can drill a hole and inject something to add additional bouyancy to offset the extra weight... also i heat the devcon to thin it out as mush as possile, but still have issues..

i use a sure set treble hook, i sqeeze on a rubber core on the shank then attach a hitch hiker to the line tie, when you rig use the large barb up thru the bait, this runs true and leaves the entire bait to swim free..