clamboni

You can upgrade that reel to curado specs by replacing two bushings with bearings. The bearing under the cast control knob, as well as the bushing in the palm side plate are both 3x10x4 The bearing that's behind the little shear pin on the shaft is 5x11x4 There's also a bushing on the end of the drive shaft if you're interested in tearing the reel down far enough to get to it. Dimensions are 5x9x3 Micrometer is really the best way to measure dimensions. There's a few reel bearings that have a 2.5mm width. All the ones I've seen are drive shaft bearings. Hard to be sure with a ruler.

Sorry, haven't been on the site in a while. I don't know what number the stuff I'm using is, got it froma friend that said it should work for what I'm doing. I don't think it should matter though, the paint particles aren't really all that small and I think all of the paper is fine enough. Sorry I can't help you more.

Search for laboratory filter paper. Not as tough as a plastic filter would be but it's tough enough as long as you remember not to shove the jigheads through it. It's pretty cheap too, so if you do tear one it's not that big a deal. I have a lot of spare cups already glued up. I just used epoxy, but I'm sure any glue that'll stick to the pvc will work fine.

Been a REALLY long time since I've posted........ I'm not picky about the brush I use to spray my clear. If I'm doing a lot of baits, I use one of my siphon feed brushes, Iwata HP-BCS or Peak x-3......it's the one that's the BCS knockoff........it's junk. But anyway, if I only have a few baits to clear I just use my gravity feeds, I have a peak c-5 and air pro ps800. I prefer the airpro because I can put a 0.5 nozzle and needle in. Before I got the air pro, when I only had a couple lures I'd just use the c-5 which is a 0.3. It laid the clear down ok I just had to move a little slower. I also have a touch-up gun and couldn't imagine needing it unless I was clearing some really big lures. The 0.5 can definitely deliver enough of a volume of clear for most lures, and I can do a whole bunch with a 4 oz bottle attached to a siphon feel airbrush. Cleanup with lacquer thinner. Really all I do is fill the cup with it and spray it out at 50-60psi a couple times. Then pull out the needle and wipe it off. I remove the nozzle too but don't bother to clean it, it's really just for peace of mind. I try to avoid water based paints altogether if possible because they suck. If you're set up to spray your clear......at the same time I do use them once in a while. The lacquer thinner evaporates very quickly, and doesn't affect the paints. Just don't use it to clean water based paints, it will curdle them. Acetone on the other hand works well and doesn't seemto cause any issues.

no big deal........try the glass though. If you're just doing that you can use a shot glass. You use a lot less cleaner that way and it being in the glass has no effect on the cleaning whatsoever. Also, just so you know, for whatever reason, some cleaners don't work any better in the ultrasonic than just soaking. I don't know why it works so incredibly well with some but makes absolutely no difference with others. Try some simple green diluted 10:1 or 20:1. it's amazing what you can remove with that stuff. I've taken factory paint off of reels soaking them for a couple days in a hot solution. If you do your own reel servicing, use it for that too. Get what grease you can off the parts quickly, and use 20:1. use the little glass again for bearings, first with naptha then acetone, you'd be amazed at the dirt you can get out of a single bearing that you thought was clean before.

Keep your airbrush out of the ultrasonic. A couple brushes, paper towels and lacquer thinner (acetone if you're using createx) is ALL you need to clean it. If you're cleaning it properly, you can do just as good a job as the ultrasonic will do in about 5 minutes. Then you don't have to worry about any water or solvents getting where they're not supposed to. If you insist on using it, just get a small glass and fill the cleaner with plain water, fill the glass with your solvent of choice. The ultrasonic waves go right through the glass and you won't melt anything. Fill the water and the solvent inside the glass to the same level. I'd suggest not letting anything past the paint cup on the airbrush get into the cleaner. You don't want to get the air valve wet with solvents, might swell orings and cause the trigger to stick.

Ever have a plano box that's been out in the sun for a few weeks? Not so supple anymore, it gets super brittle over time. Even for tails I think it's a bad idea if you're using the lures a lot. It'll break off eventually.

Just an FYI, a clog in the nozzle alone won't cause bubbling. Bubbling from the front of the cup is caused by air flowing where it's not supposed to flow. If it's a clog, it's a bad one and partially blocking the air from flowing around the nozzle. Usually it's due to the nozzle not seating properly in the body. Usually just dirty or not tight.

You could try it.....Yes, the line tie on a jighead is part of the actual hook. I just don't think brazing it would be strong enough to hold up past the first hookset. But......really the only way to know for sure is to try it.

No, you could get a spinnerbait mold, or modify a jig mold so it'll accept a wire. The wire has to go through the hook eye or there's no way it'll be strong enough. I don't think you can braze lead really. Melts at too low a temp.

Something's either dirty or not tight enough. You could also have a bad seal in the air valve, that'll allow air to come up through the handle of the brush instead of the tip. Is the air coming from the front or back of the cup? If it's from the front, it's something either dirty or loose in the nozzle assembly. If it's from the back it's the valve. Pike, did you mean you tried straight water and it didn't spray?

You can get a little bit of that effect with Createx. It's not so much a color shift, but if you lightly layer pearls and transparents, and spray from different angles, one color will tend to dominate at certain angles of view.

Nature of Createx. Some colors just don't like small tips. You could try slightly higher air pressure, thinning slightly, or using some stockings to filter out the bigger particles. You might have also ended up with a bad bottle that's got some globbed up pigment in it.

Yeah, you just pull back on the chuck. There's room for it to slide back further than the trigger will go.

If it's going in finesometimes the threads are not damaged. Damaged threads will try to lock up every time until they're taken care of. I think you're jsut having problems getting it aligned properly. Try like allstate said, when you put the handles together, turn the back backwards until you feel the starts of the threads pass each other. You'll feel a llittle pop or click. Then try screwing it in. Sometimes this helps align the threads. You could try just not using the back of the handle. Some people actually prefer this, they spray with the back of the needle exposed. I do it when I'm using water based paints so I can pull back on the needle more quickly when it clogs the nozzle.

WOW.........I apologize, I just reread this post and realized I misread it the first time. I was talking about dick nite's. There's no way you'd be able to get devcon thin enough to spray while at the same time retaining any kind of strength.

I think with that stuff the real key isn't only finding what reduces the paint well. You also have to find something that dissolves the plastic so the pigment adheres/infuses. Never used the stuff, but I remember hearing on here a couple years ago that MEK works. Or if you can find clear PVC primer in a cost effective quantity.

Buck if you got the right airflow out of the tyvek, use some 1/4" wire mesh over the tyvek to prevent it from bowing.

You have to thin it. 3:1 with acetone works well. I used a peak x3 usually. Cheap 0.5 mm siphon feed brush. when I was only doing a couple baits I'd use a 0.3mm gravity feed......worked well enough. Just keep an eye on the needle cap......I used cheap brushes for it and the sloppy spray patterns caused it to build up on the tip a little.......once there's enough buildup, it'll splatter.

I use different sizes. 0.5 is good for priming, basecoating, and clearcoating, also good for paints that have really big flakes. 0.3's do most work, they'll spray pearls and metallics, but can get fine enough for most detail. 0.2 for really fine stuff where I need hairlines or only want a tiny bit of paint coming through the nozzle. If you can only have one.......0.3. fine enough but big enough for most paints......and a GOOD 0.3 mm brush will spray water based pearls and metallics without much problem.

Look on ebay for a rod drying motor. Cheaper and easier to work with. You can get them in different voltages.

Never used auto air......but you're using water based paint, and if you're trying to shoot through less than a 0.5mm airbrush, you're just going to have to deal witht he fact that some colors just have bigger pigments and will cause clogging problems. One thing that helps is straining through an actual strainer or some panty hose. It actually has some of the effect of reducing since you're actually removing pigment, thinning the paint. Not what you want to hear I'm sure, but with the convenience of water based paints, comes this issue.

I buy all my molds from zeiner's unless they're used from someone. Prices are far better than anywhere else I've found.

I'm using ppg 3000.......tough as all hell, and you can handle itan hour after you spray.........buffable in 90 minutes....but really isn't fully cured for 3 days....but man it's tough, and lays nice and flat with little experience spraying it. Don't know what you consider pricey........I think it was about $60 for a quart, but I have very very little waste. That's the beauty of a two part. And for clear coats, it doesn't get any clearer than an auto clear and they'll NEVER yellow on you.

Maybe I shouldn't have said fail........My Diawa's and Abu's are more sensitive to being dirty, and to temperature. When they get dirty or cold you actually get a little slippage where you go to set the hook on a fish and the handle turns backwards a little........that's bad. It's not that the anti-reverse goes bad, but it gets dirty or the oil changes due to temperature change........I just haven't had that problem with the shimano.......I do agree that the anti reverse hooks up a little quicker in the other reels........But it's not enough to affect my fishing, you just notice it when you try to reel backwards. For me the stradics are smoother than any other reel I've used, even more expensive shimano's. You can actually turn the handle on a stradic without touching it by just turning the reel's body. That little bit of play never lost a fish for me. The other reels I've had problems with were always when it was cold out. I fish in below freezing temps every winter......That's when I had failures. To be honest, I don't think it was really the reel itself, but the lube I'd used when cleaning the reels changing properties when it got very cold out. I've since changed to using a very light application of a light oil and haven't had problems since.......But the shimanos have never given me problems no matter what lube or what temperature.