SFCBassman

Good idea fingers. I actually upgraded my compressor to a 10 gallon model and it fits nicely under my booth. Although I didn't plan it that way, it certainly works out well. I have a work bench with drawers next to the booth that holds all the "stuff". Thanks to you also. You quite frankly, made it possible for me to do this by posting your pictures. Thanks so much.

I had a spec sheet on my blower, but I can't find it. If I can remember correctly, it was 180 CFM at 0 Static pressure. Static pressure is basically the pressure you have to overcome due to the friction and losses in the piping. It is referred to as SP when looking up Blowers. The reason I am telling you this is, you have to calculate the effective length of piping you will have. I don't have the charts in front of me, but if I remember correctly a 90 degree angle for a 6" duct is the same as 5 feet of straight duct. Add all this up, and use a chart to come up with the SP rating of your system. For mine I estimated I needed a 150 CFM blower at .3 SP. Have I confused you yet? Hope this helps, summary, I needed a blower that could blow (or suck in my case) at least 150 CFM at .3 SP.

if anyone wants the full size pictures I would email them to you. send me a pm with your email address. I'll work on a tutorial of sorts, but I did all the research online. use the search feature and look up fatfingers post on his booth. there is a video posted on one of the posts, as well as some calculations you can do. The calculations are on a hobby website that a guy posted. Here are my main design parameters/lessons learned, for lack of a better term. 1. Downdraft booth requires less CFM. This makes it easier to find a Blower that will move enough air. This means the hole for the suction on the booth is on the bottom. 2. Flexible hose for dryer vents is easier to work with, but the 4" size required a bigger blower (meaning more expensive), so I went with the 6" duct. This is very common and can be found in most hardware stores. In some cases the 6" stuff is cheaper than 5" because it is used more frequently. 3. I wanted my lure turner to be in the booth. I use urethane clear coat and it gives off vapors as it cures. As an added benefit, (didn't know this until I built it) while turning epoxy, it keeps the dust off the baits, especially if I have the fan off. 4. It may not be the right way of doing things, but I just figured dimensions based on the room I had to work with, and I wanted to have enough room to work in, without feeling cramped. The box is roughly 30h" x 24" x 24", and the opening is 24"x24". It wouldn't have to be so high if you didn't include the space for the turner. These dimensions also fit nicely onto one sheet of 4 x 8 sheathing (pressed wood, cheap) 5. I was very careful to make sure I cut so precise, and made all the joints good, I wanted my legs to come out right. One problem was that my garage floor isn't exactly level. I ended up using large lag bolts for my feet. This allowed me to level my booth and eliminate the see saw effect you get on uneven flooring. 6. the design should be based on the velocity of air in the booth opening. The NFPA code requires 100 fpm. I had to look up some tables used for HVAC design to verify the calculations I had already done (see above). Again downdraft booth is easier to achieve this (meaning cheaper). 7. Make sure you glue all joints. This makes a much sturdier booth. 8. the wood cost about $25, ducting about $20, lighting $20. The motor, if I bought it would have been about $30, but shop around, this will be the biggest expense, and you can spend $200 if you require a really big CFM in your design. You should be able to get by with no more than $50 for a motor. Also look for an old one out of a small furnace. 9. I used a power strip on top of the box and plugged the lighting, turning motor, and blower motor to the same strip. This way, I just flip the switch on my strip and I'm in business. 10. I made the shaft of the lure turner removeable. I don't quite know how to explain how to do it, but I wanted to be able to take it out, in case I needed to paint something bigger. I calculated the radius I would need by just putting my biggest lure on it and just measured. I just made sure it would be able to turn around. BTW, I have not had any paint get on any lure I had hanging on the turner. I was concerned about this, but I think I have enough velocity in the air, the paint just goes straight to the hole. This shaft doubles as a hanging rack also. I just use a piece of wire and hook it into the hook hangers. I can even turn something while something is hanging. Cool, huh? I can't think of anything else right now, but I will try and work on the tutorial. My wife said "people aren't going to want to buy your lures, they are going to want to buy your booth..." I have to admit, I put quite a bit of work into this, not just labor, but trying to figure out everything in advance. Of course it all didn't go exactly as planned, but I'm glad I did the background work. Thank you for your kind words about my booth. Hopefully I can help someone make their own. I would feel as though I contrubuted to this forum then.

couple more pics hope this helps someone. I don't post very often, but I guess this is one of the better things I have done, and I guess I wanted to show people. I use a lot of lacquer, and also a urethane top coat, so this is vital, espicially during the winter. I don't even have to wear my pain in the a** respirator. I can keep my space climate controlled, and actually it helps keep the garage heated. I just keep the door to the house open a bit, and the blower sucks some heated air from the house into the garage. The square in the bottom is a filter over the hole. This keeps the paint from sticking to the blades of the blower. Thanks to Fatfingers for this little detail. It also has about 6" from the little shelf to the bottom. If you watch the video on the previous post, you will understand why I built this in. It is painted with Kilz, because I know this stuff is pretty resistant to solvent when it is cured. Like my lure turner built in to it? This keeps the vapors out of my garage while curing. Any more questions, I'll be happy to answer. I have been using this for about a month now and I just love it.

Well my wife wanted to remodel the garage, so if I wanted to continue to paint in there, I needed a booth. This has actually worked out well for the whole family and I'm glad I did it. This cost me about $80 but I admit, I didn't have to buy the blower motor. I was able to get one made for a ventilation system for a large building (like a booster pump i guess). I did a lot of research on how big the motor needed to be, etc. Thank you Mr. Fatfingers as your pictures and post on here helped me figure this out. The movie on the previous post helped as well.

Mark, I also paint with different types of paint. I have not used regular createx, but I know that the Auto Air createx does not react with any type of paint, but it must be heat set first. Hope this helps, Doug

Is a huddelston soft Plastic? If it is be careful using anything lacquer based. Basically if you are going to use something solvent based you should just get some tint and mix it with acetone. The acetone evaporates very quickly and this will minimize the amount it melts the plastic. You should also just very lightly spray for the same reason. Usually lacquer based paints does dry very quickly, but not as fast as acetone. You may be able to make it work with lacquer based stuff if you thinned it with acetone, but just be careful thats all I'm trying to say. If it's hard plastic, then check out the hard baits section...

I have had good luck using a dremel as suggested above. The key is don't go any faster than 10,000 RPM. I have a cheap (21.00 @ Wal-Mart) battery operated one that only has 2 speeds, 5 and 10 thousand RPM. I used my corded Dremel and it only has 1 speed and thats fast (I think 35,000). It would damage the lips. Begin by using 400 Grit to remove the deep gouges. If its just scratched, you can use higher. WalMart sells 1500 and 2000 grit in the automotive section, so you should be able to find that anywhere car parts are sold also. When you have just the scratches from your sandpaper, you can use a buffing wheel on a Dremel. I have better luck using rubbing compound on the buffing wheel and I use the larger wheel that Dremel Makes (they have 2 sizes). When using the larger wheel, I find that its easier to use the top rather than the side of the wheel. This gives you greater surface area to buff with and also helps with heat dissapation which is what causes the dremel to cut into the plastic. I have not damaged any lips using the slower speed and rubbing compound. I have pressed down pretty hard just to see and it takes quite a bit of pressure at 5000, where you can lightly touch it at 35000 and cut the lip. Use the rubbing compound like you would car wax, only it actually sands the lip. I have no Idea what equivalent sand paper grit it is, but I'm sure its better than 10K. I've been doing this with my repaints instead of using clear on the lips and it seems to protect the paint job better. What I mean by that is, the paint can't chip (since its not there) off the lip when banged off rocks. This seems to allow my paint to hold up, espicially when using devcon. In fact, I discovered this when I had no other options for a topcoat. Hope this helps someone. I may have finally found something that I can contribute here. Usually everyone feeds me information and I thank everyone very much for that.

I am not an expert at anything, therefore I rarely post on here, but I will tell you this. The questions you have asked is basically this whole forum. I would just caution you that anytime you atomize something you should take some precaution so that you don't breathe it in. You may not notice much when spraying water based paint (you don't get high, or headache) but I assure you foreign objects in your lungs, especially over long periods, aren't good for you. Usually a simple paper mask is sufficient for most water based paints, but you should follow manufacturer recommendations. There are such things as water based polyurethane for instance. I have tried some of these and some smell just like the solvent based stuff. Just be safe, thats all. If you want to read literally hours worth of stuff just type in keywords in at the search tab (top of page) and you can get most any answer you are looking for, including some great plans for a paint booth.

hey sorry for the delayed reply. Ice storm here and it got my internet/cable. If the Dick nite's as good as they say, then that is the way to go. I do know that you need to use a respirator for any Organic compound type paint. The new standard in California is 2.1 VOC for paint. This has something to do with the weight of a gallon of product related to the VOC content. Basically its how much Vapors actually come off the product when curing. I think its in pounds. Many people make the mistake of not having adequate ventilation or using proper protection. The Nason I spray is just as toxic, but for that matter Lacquer has a high VOC content and can kill you just as dead. Ventilation and respirator is important. In fact, most water based paint manufactures will recommend a filter respirator to keep you from breathing the atomized pigment/whatever else is in there. It is not good for your lungs, and you don't get much warning, because it don't smell bad or give you a headache. I have no idea what kind of compound Dick Nite's is but I would bet based on what I have heard about it, its a water based urethane. These are popular in CA for body shops because of the low/none VOC. But unless its pure water, you should have some type of breathing protection. Our lungs were not meant to breathe in that stuff and especially for extended periods of time.. I always wear gloves also when dealing with the stuff, but I think the lungs always need protecting. Its kind of like dealing with gasoline. If you fill up your car, I bet you don't always wear gloves. I also bet that if you were spraying it out of a airbrush or paint gun, inside your enclosed garage, you would know something is wrong and not want to breathe the stuff. We know it absorbs into your skin, but you absorb many more times the stuff through your mucus membranes than your skin. To answer your question, I sprayed it with a Pashe H. I know its single action and all but it worked for this application very well. Imron is a little thicker than Nason, but it would spray pretty good as well. You can clean it with Lacquer thinner or acetone. As long as your airbrush can handle solvent based paint, it should handle these urethanes. Imron is old technology and it has high VOC, but for the applications I described, its hard to beat. Imron is a urethane and (some other component) based stuff. It is really only designed for surfaces that need to be ultra solvent resistant. It does require care for its use, but like I said, we all should be careful about what we are breathing in. If you still want to buy one of these, any auto body paint supply place should be able to get it for you. I know at least for the Nason, other companies have similiar products. Baking these is not necessary, but it does speed up the curing process. This is different for each product, but if you get the technical information when you buy it, it really spells it out for you. Mark,Very sorry to hear about your friend That died from Cancer. You are right, no finish is worth your life, so please take the proper precautions guys.

I have not. It actually never occurred to me to try that. The Imron was great by itself. I suppose if you wanted to have a high build it would be a great idea. Imron is an industrial paint system. It is made to be tough and chemical resistant. It is used from skyscrapers to trucks. I cannot find a source to by this except for a full gallon at a time. Trouble is, that costs $200-300 depending on the kind you want. I got some from a buddy that paints lures too and a DuPont guy gave it to him to try. We were looking for something that could stand up to the rocks here. Wiggle warts(with the bill painted) and lipless crankbaits with devcon just don't stand up to the rocks here. People drag them on the bottom and the epoxy chips and eventually will start to peel. Imron does not have that problem. I am using Nason now which is also from dupont. It is an automotive clear. It seems to be tough enough for my customers, but I have not field tested it quite as much as the Imron. You gave me a good idea though. I will shoot some Nason over devcon for some of my apps. I put some holographic foil on some of my colors and the nason dosn't build enough to cover the edges without showing the edge. Devcon will do that, but the nason should prevent the devcon from chipping and peeling. I'll let you know what happens. If you want to try the Imron, get some from a truck body shop. They might sell some to you from one of their opened gallons. Be very careful with it and store what you are using seperate from the rest. That way if you make a mistake, you only messed up a little bit, not your whole stock. I can tell you about baking it etc if you want to know. I wish I could get some more, i really do.

Jimmy- I have been using Nason clear from Du Pont. It is a 2 part urthane. It sprays very good and I'm impressed with how it has done. I was using another urethane from Du Pont called Imron. I was given some to try from a paint representative and its the greatest stuff. Imron is outstanding, but it comes at a outstanding price. The Nason clear I picked up for 30.00 a quart. That includes both parts. I mix 10 ml (or cc) and I can spray about 10 lures with some left over. I would never run out of this stuff. It is a clear coat designed to be painted over panels on cars. I do spray side to side, then up down, put on turner and let flash for 5-7 mins, put on another coat, let it flash again. Hang it in the oven at 140 for 30 Mins. This cures the top coat faster. It does not fully cure until 3-6 days, but you can sand and finish after 6 hours with the above procedure. I dont sand at that point, but i figure if you can sand it, you could ship it. It is not tacky, and after 24 hours is really hard. I am just begining with this, but I already used lacquer and painted with a respirator anyway. It really works good. It is thin though. I have went back to devcon when I need that thicker finish(to cover sticker edges for instance). It is a car finishing product so it does look good and it is tough/flexible.