DeHeron

Thanks everybody for all the cool info.I have been very interested in "crank" history lately.I have a question..I am trying to figure out the Big B. Is this basicly a BB3 ? the way it was first made? It also seems that there were different tail diameters thru the years making it somewhat confusing . I am also thinking that the older ones were not labeled. A skinny tail on a BB3 can look similiar to a KB3. I have seen one Bagley cut thru were the tail wire ran to the back of the lip with a "J" bend for the lip to snap lock into. On todays terms they definetly were not made well..but the fish liked em. There is something about them even today that the big fish love. They were under weighted becoming unstable at high speed but this high bouancy made it come thru timber so well. With the older rods and reels back then they were hard to cast in the wind and the plastic cranks became the rage. I am glad to see Bagley finally getting some recognition. This time frame is really when bass fishing as we know it began. I have met the man that gave Omori the Bagley baits but I was not in the boat the day of the Classic.

I don't think it would cause it to hunt. It would just make it easier to start cranking. Just wondering if it was ever anybodys intent to purposely tilt the lip. Can it be advantagious? Or is it or was it allways just poor quality.Maybe you can get more of a shake. If you don't move the weight forward on a zero degree lip the lip acts like a surfboard. The ones I have made with the weight forward got way to tite for my taste. Not a big fan of the 0 degree lip. But Mark I see what you are saying,that's not a bad idea and it would be easy to do. I'll try anything once and sometimes twice.

:?Hmm...On an old diver with 0 degree lip angle.. and you wanted the weight to stay rearward. Would it have been advantagious to tilt the lip to one side so there is allways a leading edge in the water for takeoff. I have a few were you have to shake your line to get the lip down.

I don't know... but I would think it was never any bait manufactures intent to install the lip crooked. Brass line ties allowed for easy tuning. Bass Tackle was just taking off and we were not so anal about everything being straight.But if you can't build a new one, improve the old one. However there may actually be something to this. Take a car with a front end allignment problem and correct it by just using the steering wheel...now throw in a rear flat tire and you really have something! I hope this isn't true.Think of all the time I wasted eye balling my lips! While I am rambling on..somebody mentioned hunting. I get those every now and then but I get more that I would say just wander. I think I know what causes it but what I don't know is what is causing the bait that every now and then "skips". It's like about every 3 or 4 ft. the bait will just skip a beat. Has anybody seen this? I am thinking it has something to do with bill width and angle...maybe just a little too much resistence from the lip? Borderline weight..Borderline Lip? Maybe I just need a timing light!

I have forgotten everything about color but you can ponder a few things. First..get a color wheel. Browns can be made by using the opposite color. This can be good for darkening. A brown on the yellow side will be warm and from the red side will look cold or harder. This I think would be better than say..using black. So I guess I am saying you can fade with color, transparent paint,multiple strokes. My first baits were white with a grey back and black top. I don't know how long I cursed but it was a long time. I got the feel for overspray and how to get a nice blend. You know what? My airbrushing still sucks.

Thanks McDano and Blades..that is some helpful imformation. Still trying to get my head around the chemical situation, I have spent so much time on size,shape,weight,lip,etc...I have been fooling around for some time now but it really did not all fall together until a couple of years ago..(slow learner). So now I am focussing more on finishing out my investment in time, properly! This can make the work all worth while!

I would definately like to try that Ceramiclear. I was wondering if the auto clear is a name brand or a reference to any two-part urethane used in auto painting. Lastly, can someone recomend a clear coat to go over laquer paint to protect it from the urethane top coat. I have not switched over to acrylic yet and have lots of laquer paint. And I would like to use up some air dry urethane. I am guessing just any acrylic clear?

Nice paint job!.. OK..I am a little weird but the cb50 has a hole in the lip? I have seen this a while back in Japanese Re-do's but I think everybody came to the concensus that it did not make any difference. Hard to beleive LC would have a mould like that.

Wow..thanks! That is pretty cool. I had no idea that was going on. I might actually try it. Repaints are not high on my list but I am allways corking off on something!

Coke or Arm&Hammer? I thought you mite know the secret solution? I have seen pictures of a clear... yellowy substance but still know not thou name. Come to think of it..It looked more like a Corona. Maybe it was..no I won't go there.

No I don't. But thanks for mentioning Seiji. I have been trying to come up with that name since I ran across that site a month ago, and then could not find it again. It has been driving me kookoo.

According to Ichiban Tackle..Daiwa TD Minnow early 80's. I would of never got this one right.

If I set a bill first I want to mask off just to keep my nasty fingers off of the bill especially when epoxying. I have two methods. The first is time consuming. Tape the outer portion of the lip first..this will stay on till the finish. Mask off the very small remaining portion. This area will be pulled and replaced after each time the area gets painted. Pull the tape when the paint is wet. Before clear coat place the small area of masking just outside the paint line so the clear comes out just over the paint. Peel the tape while the clear coat is wet. Wipe off the tape with a Q-tip before you pull the tape and hold the tail down while you do so. The second is a old modlers trick. Mask off starting at your paint line first then start wraping building up layers gradually working out away from your paint line. Gradually means about 1/64th of an inch. The more the better.It will look like a beehive when your done. This can stay on the whole time and even thou it sounds stupid it works great! It takes a lot of tape. I hope this helps . I hate doing it but sometimes it's necessary.