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Everything posted by longhorn

  1. I've used Placon before. http://www.placon.com/markets/retail-packaging/stock-clamshell-packaging/
  2. Do an eBay search for "soft plastic mold". There are usually some Beaver molds for sale.
  3. longhorn

    Mold Masters

    Thanks for the nice words guys. The wax was plain old canning wax you can get in any grocery store.
  4. longhorn

    Mold Masters

    I've had good luck with the lost wax method that jewelry makers use. Carve the master out of wax, make a POP mold and put in the oven to melt the wax.
  5. Looks to me like some great injecting of some core shots in your 7.5" worm mold and then dipping the head and adding some great colors and eyes and then dipping some more...or something close to that...I can see that they were dipped. Really gives me some ideas!
  6. Thought I'd show how it was done back in the day. This setup uses heat lamps and is still the easiest way (IMO) to heat and pour plastic. I started pouring plastic in 1974, I think. I still use this setup today.
  7. These pans work well for me. http://www.barlowstackle.com/Melting-Pan-P1497.aspx
  8. I used a drill bit and acrylic paint from Walmart to make this kill spot on my swimbaits. It withstands dipping just fine and does not degrade over time.
  9. Started pouring some finesse worms that require bagging. I'm using worm oil from a major supplier and it works great for bagging but soaks into the worms and they are dry and stuck together the next day. What oil can I use for packaging that will keep the worms lubricated in the bag? Thanks.
  10. If you coat the cavities with Elmer's Glue it will have the finish and release similar to a POP mold.
  11. I use MF Pumpkin for that brown.
  12. Looks like the molds are history...probably due to this tread...no longer on their product list.
  13. Thanks for the interesting post. I moved to Fort Worth in the fall of '74. Had come from Austin where some were fishing a "secret" soft plastic bait. I couldn't get them in Fort Worth so that's when I started pouring. Made POP molds and could buy MF plastic in most tackle shops for $8.00 a gallon. I have really enjoyed this hobby and still pour today. I'm staying old school...open molds and heat lamps for melting the plastic. In '74 the store bought worms were all hand poured and I remember when Mr. Twister came out with the (I think) first injected twister tail worm a couple years later. Purple/white tail was the local color of choice. I should note that MF offers a mold of that once secret bait.
  14. It looks to me like it's injected, then painted, then dipped in clear
  15. In the member submitted tutorials on page 2 there is one titled "Quick and easy mold boxes". I use this method for RTV.
  16. Awesome job! That's what hand pouring is all about.
  17. I use Plaid acrylic paint and drill bits to make my kill spots. No bleeding or toxic smell of the LC paint...and way cheaper.
  18. Here's a parafin swimbait I carved about 5 years ago.
  19. I have used parafin (common canning wax) to make lost wax POP molds with good success. I bought some of the blue carving wax and never could get it to melt so it didn't work for me.
  20. if you do a search with the right key words there will be lot's of info on here. many posts on this subject and good luck.
  21. Dipping baits does not take away from the action if you do it correctly. On frogs, to dip the body only it doesn't affect the action of the legs...on swimbaits if you dip the body and not the tail and the approach to the tail it will not affect the swimming action. To dip an entire bait would probably not be good unless the mold was designed for it.
  22. Not a thing wrong with putting baits in cool water...I have done it for years...just don't leave them in for a long time and you'll be fine. I usually take them out after about 15-20 minutes, dry them and lay on a production tray.
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