longhorn

Thanks...I meant mutilator

Anyone know the formula that Aaron Martens used at Jordan this weekend? It's a roboworm color.

Here's how I added a hook slot to a swimbait mold. I would highly recommend aluminum. Since you're making a new mold...cut the pieces and insert them in your fluke like shown on my post. I personally don't like a fluke with a hook slot. I made mine solid and like the way they perform and hold the hook. good luck http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/12495-adding-a-hook-slot-to-a-pop-mold/page__p__89712__hl__%2Badding+%2Ba+%2Bhook+%2Bslot__fromsearch__1#entry89712

On the few line through bait I pour I put the insert or weight in the mold and pour it in. On the 5" baby E baits there a place on the mold to rest it on...on others you can rig up something using wire to keep it in place.

Click on Forums, then scroll down to Knowledge base, under member submitted tutorials click on soft plastic and it's POP mold making in two parts.

Yes and I put thin plastic under the entire mold. You can also use tape with a few pins to make sure. There are photos of the cutout and pour on top method in my POP tutorial. Good Luck.

Does the swimbait have a flat top ? If not, the tape down won't work. Also have you washed off the bait with detergent? On baits that have rounded tops I use the pin down method. Put plastic or vinyl on a cork tile and use straight pins to hold the bait down. Tape your bottomless container down and pour the POP.

Jim, Glad you're taking a break with your family. Nothing more important than that. I'm leaving Wednesday with my boat in tow to visit my six grandkids in Spokane. Have a great summer. Gary

Interesting topic. I'm looking at Jim's example and I think instead of 200,000 baits a week it should be 2000 baits. 200 X 10 = 2000. Am I doing something wrong? His approach though, is right on. I've seen many small businesses fail because the owner simply did not do the math.

Happy Father's Day to all you Dads on TU !

Oomoo is an excellent RTV for making molds. It is very similar to what Lurecraft uses for their RTV molds. Easy to use and mix and no thinning required. Here's a link: Oomoo

Forgot to say welcome and that pouring is a neat hobby for a fisherman as long as you realize it will be an expense like all hobbies and may turn into an addiction

Mark, I think folks didn't answer because too many questions and no easy answers. I'll give you my opinions. 1. I think it would definitely be cheaper for you to buy your worms rather than make them. Most people don't realize how few baits we really use. 2. I would buy a couple RTV molds. You can see if you like pouring and don't have to go through the mold making and they are inexpensive. 3. You can answer that one yourself by looking a prices. you might consider a starter kit some folks sell. 4. Can't answer that one...depends on the worm...I don't pour worms much. 5. There's no perfect plastic that will make all those so you like them. I'd start with medium and you could add hardener or softener depending. Just my and hope it helps.

and if I had all these molds I couldn't afford to buy anything at wally world

Do some searches...that's come up lots of times and there should be some good discussion. I remember some guys using other paint also...some kind of craft paint. I use craft paint for kill spots on swimbaits but don't airbrush.

Looks like the eyes have it!

The lamp faces are about 8 1/4" apart. I'm running 110. If you were thinking of a hot plate then this should not be more watts. I doubt you'll find a canister rated for 250. You won't be running all of these things at once. A two pot setup is 1000 watts...about the same as a microwave. Most of my pans are of the type that is no longer made...I buy my new ones from Barlows Tackle Shop...they have only one size.

the lamps are not the red ones and if I remember I'll measure the spacing. The canister fixture is not a must...they were used because the mounting flange was easily attached to a wooden table or frame. I think someone on here made one using just the cheap ceramic lamp sockets.

250 each...500 watts per pan.

Yes, I've been using them for years...I use the snack size for handpours for my own use.

Got the lamps at Walmart...don't remember the price...about 4 bucks...one on top and one underneath...the fixtures that hold the lamps are canister light fixtures circa 1970...they are different now but can be adapted to this use...the cheap ones are around 8 bucks I think. Back in the day I had a three burner but rarely used it so now two works great for me.

Yes, two lamps...here's what they're setting on..a simple stand made from roof flashing and coat hanger wire stand

Here's the simple system I use and it's very efficient for laminates. my setup 90% of my pouring is laminated swimbaits. My system uses heat lamps. When the plastic gets to pouring temp I pour 3 or 4 bellies then put that pan back in the heat then pour the backs and so on. I can pour laminates until I run out of plastic or mold cavities without stopping. You may be able to do this with a hot plate but IMO it would be harder to control. Actually overheating is more likely to occur and I can control it by turning off the top lamp or both depending. I have 24 cavities of my 4.5" swimbait and if I mix up enough plastic I can pour all 24 in minutes without stopping. I use the same setup for my dipping plastic. I dip about a dozen baits and then put the plastic back in the heat while I'm taking those out of the water..by the time I get them dried and laid out on a tray the plastic is near ready to go again.

I might add...I don't airbrush but I've switched to craft paints for my kill spots and other details and won't ever buy LC paint again. There are people on here that airbrush craft paints but I don't know who. They work great, especially if the bait is going to be dipped.

Yes, it did not mix with the paint at all...it stayed separate as if it was water and didn't even get tinted by the paint.