Bullsbug

I bought a 1/8 in teflon rod from McMaster I think, then cut in to pins. It wasn't that expensive and they work great. I used to mold weed guards in, now i use these pins and glue in after painting and baking. Works great.

Thanks guys, I've got to get my logo from the guy that did it and have it put on a disk. When I get that I might get in contact with ya'll for more info. Jack

I just bought the BassTackle 4.2" Hog Split Tail mold. It makes a very good looking bait, I haven't tested it yet but I think it is going to work as good as RI beaver.

I've been selling some of my product with out labels. I was thinking that it would help sells if I could put a label on my bags. I want to print my own, I have a logo. I just need to know what kind of program I need to put my logo on and do some customization. Any help would be appreciatted.

Frank I've got the small injectors and I fill one and lay it on the bench, then I fill the other and with it in one hand, I pick the other up and drag across bench to get clog off.. Then with one in each hand I stick them in the blending block snd then I push plungers down with one hand while holding the block with the other.

Thanks for all the replys. I just got one of Bear's blending block and I am making beautiful laminates now. I think I will get a griddle and try, instead of having to zap my plastic each time. Maybe that will speed up my production.

How is Frank keeping his plastic hot, I thought you were not suppose to put pyrex on hot plates?

I can't get the technigue down for doing laminates with my set up. Every time I fill one injector and let in set in the cup by the time I get the other filled and go to inject, the tips are clogged. What do I need to do get plastic hotter or what? By the way I have Bears two color injector kit, with the offset nozzles.

Thanks for the replys. I think my problem might be from overheating or remelting. And once again what is the best temp to inject at, I've been in the 315 to 335 range.

Hi guys need some help with my junebug. The purple color is good but my glitter is showing more blueish than green. Do I need more glitter or possibably a different shade of green, and I'm using the fine glitter does this make a differance? One other thing I just ordered some more plastic and I got calhouns med instead of soft, I have softener, how much do I use for 4 and 8 oz batches. Thanks Jack

I'm a newbie and I need a little help. I just tried out my new LC twin injector and I only got one shot out of 4 that worked. I had mixed 2 four oz batches of plastic and I put 2 tablespoons of salt in each. I filled my injectors with the temp at 315-335. The shots that failed, the adapter would clog before I could get the plastic flowing. My question is does my tips need to be cleaner, does my plastic need to be hotter or could the salt be clogging the nozzle? Also I added a cap full of heat stabilizer to each batch is this about right and the salt and stabilizer needs to be added before heating right?

Steve here is how I tie my skirts. I use a fly tying vise that rotates. First of all here are few things I do to my vise to make it easier. I take electrical tape and wrap around the barrel of the vise away from the jaws, (what this does is if you ty your jig with the weed guard already in place, it allows you to unwrap several wraps of the tape and bend the weed guard up and then re wrap the tape over the weed guard, it keeps the weed guard out of the way of your bobbin.)I place my jig in the vise with the jig eye in the jaws. Now I turn the jig 90 deg away from me, the hook is lying flat with point away from me. I now take super glue and put a drop on the jig shank. Now I make several wraps with my thread, now I take one silicone pad and lay it on the shank and make abouut 8-10 wraps. Next turn the jig 90 deg with the hook point down, put another pad on the jig shank and repeat. Next turn 90 deg the hook point will be toward you now, put another pad on and wrap 8-10 wraps. Now I put 2 half hitchs. Now turn the jig back with the point facing down. Now the other trick I do, I have a piece of 25# mono with loop tied in one end tied to my vice, I lay the mono loop across the shank where I make another 8=10 wraps over the mono, I now cut my thread and run the end through the loop, now pull the loop out back under the wraps you just made trim and add a drop of glue. Now trim pads to your preference. With practice you can ty 10 to 20 jigs in an hour.

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll try doubling my drops. Where do you get floured salt?

I just started pouring and am having trouble getting colors right. I know it is a lot of trial and error, but figured I'd ask and see if I could get a few questions answered here. I mixed up 4 oz of calhouns and added 13 drops of Bears green pumpkin and 2 drops of black. I got a fair shade of green pumpkin, but it was too translucent(more watermelon) and not quite dark enough. How do I get my colors darker and more opaque? More coloring and does adding white make it less translucent.

Thanks for the replies, and i understand about promoting one supplier over others. I have been making my own jigs for years and the suppliers I use for those aren't the best for plastics. Thanks again.

Why am I not getting any replies? Is the question too broad or what?

I'm thinking about getting into pouring plastics and was wondering which mold is closest to the Creme Scoundrel. Also were is the best place to get molds and supplies?

I use Bagley's B-flat cranks with the squar bill, and I have the bills break quite a bit. Does anyone know of a supplier that has the circuit board bills pre cut for this bait. Also I've experimented with alternate materials to use. I've made bills out of CDs and was pleased with the action but this material is not very durable either. Last night a made a bill out of a piece of plastic from a plano divider. I 'll be testing tomorrow and will let ya'll know how that works.

I've built a fluid bed and I am having a few problems. I used the lunch bags as my membrane for my cups and it seemed to do fair with the black paint but the brown would not fluff up right. Also how do you attach the membrane to the cup, be it the paper, pillow case or coffee filter. My air source is the aquarium bump with the two outlets. Thanks Jack

I need to know what to use to thin the devcon epoxy with. I've started putting a coat over my finished jigs, but by the time I get 8 or 10 coated my epoxy hardens up.

I just bought a Do-It flat eye mold. I put the heavier wire Mustad hook in the mold and it wouldn't close tightly. So I took my dremel tool and cut the hook eye hole a little deeper and I also took some material out around the hook shank. It still wouldn't close tightly and I'm getting some lead on the ring and bard. My question is do I need to take more out around the shank or the eye pocket?

I just signed up here at TU, and after browsing some of the threads my interest was peaked by the fluid bed method for powder painting. I've been making jigs for several years and I have been heating my jigs in a toaster oven and then dipping one at a time in the paint. How does a fluid bed work and what are the advantages over my method.