smallmouthaholic

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smallmouthaholic last won the day on May 2

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About smallmouthaholic

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/28/1946

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    http://www.wincoscustomlures.com

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    S.E.Pennslyvania
  1. Clamping molds

    I use 2 -6x4" woodworking vises attached to either side of the outside of my exhaust booth
  2. Do you need an injector for a senko mold?

    With all due respect- hand pouring is for those who don't want to spend the $ for injection molds. I started out hand pouring 9 years ago and you couldn't begin to get me to do that neanderthal way of making swims,craws,creatures.lizards and worms-ever again. Too many caveats- not to mention trimming along w/ poor quality,finished product. !
  3. primer sealer?

    You miss my point. .024 is used since it makes a very small hole in the wood. It's for hanging not internal rigging
  4. Junebug / Green Glitter Help!

    Are you initially heating the June bug mix in a micro wave or from scratch in the shooting star?
  5. preping lead heads before painting

    If the lead has truly oxidized,forget getting paint to stick. Brush you lead jigs in acetone w/ a toothbrush in a well ventilated area to ensure clean lead prior to painting. Don't smoke around acetone..
  6. Junebug / Green Glitter Help!

    Are you heating your plastic w/a mechanical stirring system? Repeated micro wave heatings will cause problems.
  7. primer sealer?

    I use.024 s.s. wire since it makes a very small hole into the rear of the plug and is easy to insert using pliers. White primers are best for a base coat since pearl,red and chartreuse are often use for a top coat and show up best against a white primer.
  8. primer sealer?

    Everyone has their own idea concerning sealing a wooden plug. Here's mine based upon experience 1- drill all hardware mounting holes and eyes sockets 2- use .024 s.s. wire and using pliers ,insert into the rear of the plug making a hanging loop on one end 3- Completely submerge into a container of Marine spar varnish thinned w/ paint thinner 4-Keep submerged until all bubbles-small and foam like stop rising(2-4 minutes) 5-Hang to dry for 1-5 days depending upon air temperature 6- Apply one coat of KILZ primer sealer Now you're ready to paint and finish w/ your favorite clear coat
  9. Chroming your baits

    The whole truth-like it or not! I can't remember the last time I owned a chromed lure!
  10. Degassed Plastisol - Bait Junkies

    Plastisol that sits after shipment attracts condensation and moisture- unless of course you store it in a climate controlled room I believe Frank stated a while back that for best results,you de-gas only the amount you intend to use that day. Never had a problem w/ any plastisol that was heated and constantly stirred in hand injection system. A micro-wave causes the problems when there is moisture and air from shipment in the plastisol.
  11. Top water walking bait wont float right, rolls over.

    I'm just shaking my head how the in-experienced post their"rocket scientist" info on this thread. Pouring hot lead into a wooden lure cavity-Ridiculous ,DANGEROUS and completely UN-necessary Fact- the more weight you put along the length of the wooden bait the deeper in the water it sits reducing buoyancy Fact-You don't need rattles in a wooden bait. Why- you'll never hear them once the lure is sealed,primed ,painted and epoxy coated plus- you'll end up destroying the wooden bait trying to make useless rattle chambers Fact- a scale is a waste of money as the density of wood varies. Cup the nose slightly on a down ward angle to simulate a small popper nose.Now the bait,splits,bubbles and walks @ the same time. I'm done- good luck w/ your project
  12. Top water walking bait wont float right, rolls over.

    You don't need a scale. Use worm weights as I mentioned above. Look her for lure kits- http://www.saltwaterplugs.com/kitinstructionspage.htm http://www.saltwaterplugs.com/cedar balusters.htm https://www.google.com/search?q=salty's+fresh+water+lure+kits&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
  13. Top water walking bait wont float right, rolls over.

    I've made 100's of these bait over the years. Building them to perform is not rocket science-UNLESS YOU MAKE IT. 1 tail weight only so they sit w/the head out of the water and the tail submerged 1/4-5/8 of an inch. The size and weights of the hooks,screw eyes and split rings can make a difference. Shape them like a tapered cigar on a lathe but 1st mark the center( of the squared wood @ the tail of the bait), then drill a hole for the worm weight to be inserted and glued in place-flush w/ the end of the wood. Shape the plug on a lathe leaving only 1/8" of the worm weight showing Drill a centered hole through the worm weight,center of the bait and nose. Cut out your eye sockets w/ a fostner bit. Then seal the wood by submerging in Marine spar varnish and thinner until all bubbles stop. 2-5 minutes. Hang to dry for 1-2 days. Assemble and set them to sit as mentioned above. File off a bit of the tail weight if they sit too deep. Add all hardware and hooks- go to a quiet,glass like area of a lake or pond to test. Paint,apply 3-d eyes and epoxy topcoat Bass wood or cedar is the recommended wood for buoyancy and action. Worm weight guides- 5'' plugs-1/8 oz. 4" 1/16 oz 3-3 1/2" 1/32oz.
  14. Top water walking bait wont float right, rolls over.

    Walking baits only require a bit of lead on the rear end of the bait I cup the nose slightly like a popper. Use cedar or bass wood 1- drill all mounting holes , eye sockets . Lead weight should be in the bait during lathe turning 2- seal the wood 3-Mount hooks and check the attitude of the bait in water( head up ,tail, down slightly) 4- test in a lake w/out wind 5- Paint when they walk satisfactory
  15. trouble pouring jigging spoon

    Smoking your molds w/ a bees wax candle makes a difference vs. a regular candle. Roto metals sells clean,soft lead Brinell rating 5 ( same as x-ray sheet lead)