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mark poulson

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mark poulson last won the day on August 24

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About mark poulson

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/23/1947

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    Oakley, CA
  1. New guy and now scared to death??

    Just use the same safety precautions you follow when you pour lead and you should be fine. Pyrex "explodes" when it's set on a cold surface after heating, so put a piece of plywood down to set your cup on. It is very rare for a cup to shatter just from heating, but it happens. I use NorPro silicone cups instead of Pyrex. They are flexible, so they can't shatter. Go slowly, and do some dry runs first, so you're not rushing when your plastic's hot because you forgot a step.
  2. Sweet gum?

    If you seal the end grain of your raw wood it will dry more evenly when it's in storage.
  3. Best products/process to paint woodmlures

    If you're just starting out, I recommend using PVC trimboard as your bait making material. There's a sticky at the top of this forum page.
  4. Site Software Update

    My notifications still will not open. Also, the menu banner doesn't follows me as I scroll down like it did before.
  5. baitmold.com review (ukraine store)

    I have one of their 5" Keitech molds, and it pours really easily. The tail is thin, so I need to add 1 tsp of hardener per cup to my BJ med. plastisol to get it to swim the way I want.

    I wonder if talc/baby powder would keep that from happening, like it does with rubber jig skirts.
  7. Ted

    That is smart, and a good way to find out how responsive a seller is without having to lay out any money up front.

    I use AC 1315 sealer sometimes. The only problem I've had is that soft plastics melt the sealer if they stay in contact for more than an hour. I use clear nail polish for my rats where the soft plastic worm tails attach, and that acts as a barrier so I can still use the tails.
  9. Propionate Wood Sealer

    BobP here makes balsa baits, and he sometimes uses Solarez UV resin to seal. I've used it as a top coat, but never tried it as a sealer. It is much thicker than super glue, so it might give you a one coat paintable surface.
  10. Propionate Wood Sealer

    Try putting propionate in the search box at the bottom of the More tab menu in the upper right hand corner of this forum page, if you haven't already tried. I am a one-off hobby builder, so my methods aren't for mass producing baits. I use runny super glue to seal my balsa baits, two coats applied with my finger. It penetrates, locks the grain, makes the bait's surface harder/stronger, and I can paint over it, once it's sanded smooth. I'm sure there are lots of other methods, but that is the one that works for me.
  11. CAD and 3D printing

    That looks good!
  12. homemade twistlock centering pin

    That's a great idea! Which wire do you use?
  13. Archimedes Dunk Test

    That's exactly how a Duo Realis Spinbait 80 falls on a semi-slack line. It's slightly tail down, and wobbles side to side as it falls.
  14. Archimedes Dunk Test

    I usually shoot for a slow rising bait, and then use my line choice, either mono or fluoro, to get it to either rise faster or suspend/slow sink. I now fish the CA Delta, so suspending baits are not effective for me. I need them to rise on the pause, or they get hung up in the weeds.
  15. flat rubber skirt material

    Thanks for the heads up. How did you know I was thinking about trying the GP? Hahaha