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mark poulson

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mark poulson last won the day on September 30

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About mark poulson

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  • Birthday 08/23/1947

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    Oakley, CA

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  1. Here are some on TW: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Punching_Skirts/catpage-PUNCHKIRTS.html
  2. I use ZAP, because I can get it, and their accelerant, in bigger bottles. https://robart.com/collections/zap-glue-zap-cas
  3. I think there is a big difference between a hanging (static?) weight, and a moving (dynamic?) weight, like a fish thrashing and trying get that hook out of it's mouth. I think the thrashing fish generates a lot more load. But, having said that, I still use runny super glue to reinforce the wood around my screw eyes in balsa baits, and I haven't had one fail yet. Of course, this will be the kiss of death, and I'll lose a good fish next time out when the screw eye pulls out! Hahaha
  4. I use both the thin and the medium/gap filling glues, and use an accelerator to set the gap filling CA glue when I use it to position/hold hardware (thank you Rayburn Ben).
  5. Bob's right. Either epoxy or, for me anyway, super glue will give both waterproofing and strength. In my experience, transparent base is used to either thin paint so it's more transparent, or, the way I use it, to apply glitter to a finished paint scheme with a brush. It is not a protective film layer, or a wood sealer to be used prior to painting.
  6. The strength and rigidity of the bill material you choose is what's most important. Ideally it would be super thin, so the bait dives more quickly because of less water resistance from the edge of the bill, very rigid, so the energy of the water flowing against it on the retrieve isn't lost or lessened by the lip bending on the retrieve, and super strong, so it doesn't break or crack when it hits something, or, like the older Rapalas, when you slap grass off of the bait. For me, there is no one perfect material. I have had to play around with different materials to find which ones work best for which baits. I use circuit board material for baits that don't have the line tie in the bill, and Lexan for those that do.
  7. I use an .051 through wire for my bass ploppers, but I did try the .062. It was a bear to bend to form the tail loop/hook hanger, but I could do it. I just find the .051 is plenty strong for bass. I buy the 12" wire loops, just in case I want to make a longer plopper. The 8" and the 12" wire bunches are the same price, so I opt for the 12". http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Wire-Shafts/Looped-End-Wire-Shafts.html
  8. Those look like an EWG hook with a couple inside the lead head.
  9. A vent that is a little too big is a pain, because you have to trim the tag that's left, but a vent that's too small is a nightmare, because you wind up with incomplete baits that have to be remelted and poured again.
  10. You can use a small file to enlarge the vent at the end of the tail, too.
  11. Thanks Barry. They actually plop louder than the bigger versions. I have no idea why!
  12. A bit of nostalgia. These came back to me after 15+ years.
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