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mark poulson

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mark poulson last won the day on August 11

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About mark poulson

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  • Birthday 08/23/1947

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    Oakley, CA

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  1. I've tried to use the tap brush method, and even dropped a pinch of powder paint over the heated spinnerbait head. I learned pretty quickly I'm not Smalljaw or Cadman. Grrr!!! I use Rustoleum Etching primer (thank you Ted) on my spinnerbait heads, and then paint them with Createx and an artist's brush, heat setting each color before I add the next. I found I have much better control doing it that way, and get decent results. I top coat with clear nail polish, and it holds up really well.
  2. One more time, you make it look easy. A word of warning. Don't try and use Glo Nation powder instead of power paint. You'll melt the lead before you get the Glo paint to stick. Don't ask me how I know. Hahaha
  3. You know you've been living on the edge for a long time! Hahaha
  4. Would rebending the top wire, so it is parallel to the bottom wire, solve the problem?
  5. Try looking here: https://fishingskirts.com/fishing-skirts/
  6. Amen. Thank goodness the fish aren't art critics!
  7. Wayne, we had scorpions in Venice, CA, when I was a kid in the '50s. Our alleys were dirt, we were barefoot, and no one went looking for them after dark. I would have loved to have had a UV flashlight back then. They help to find black widows, too. That red belly glows in UV light.
  8. That's why I suggest trying the weed wacker line, which is basically just a really heavy mono. It is slick, so weeds slip right off of it, but it's still flexible, so it doesn't interfere with the hookset. I use the .065" line.
  9. Or you can put a weed guard in them, and throw them up into the heavy stuff.
  10. I just took a look at the Hardbaits Gallery and man, there are some really talented painters out there!
  11. I'd suggest you buy a plopper copy from Predator Baits, or some other online supplier, so you have a sample in hand when you begin you tinkering. It also helps to know what the plop should sound like. The shape and depth of the tail's lip is critical, but it's easy to duplicate, once you've figured it out. Please feel free to ask me anything you'd like. Everything I know about making baits I've learned here on TU, from others who shared with me, so it's only fair to return the favor.
  12. I suggest you try to open the eye on that hook before you commit to it. I found that the Gamakatsu hooks are too hard to open, at least with an awl, and that the eye breaks. Maybe you can twist it sideways without breaking it. I found that the Mustad 32786 BLN hook is openable, in the 3/0 and 4/0 sizes, as long as I don't open it too far. Of course, I do not make Chatterbait knockoffs. "That would be wrong, children, very wrong indeed."
  13. Thanks. The whooper plopper actually began life as a musky bait, designed by Larry Dahlberg, so it should get pike, too. It resembles something struggling on the surface, like a baby duck trying to get airborne, or a baitfish that's trying to escape, I've read that pike are vicious predators that will eat anything they can fit into their mouths. I've never actually seen a musky or pike in person, but I've caught their saltwater cousin, the barricuda, and those are some mean rascals. When I threw iron for them, big metal jigs, they would actually scratch the metal with their teeth! From the pictures I've seen, pike look like they have the same dentist. Yes, I carve the tail out of the same Azek PVC trimboard that I use for the whole bait. Man, I don't know if I could even cast an 8" crankbait. I know retrieving it would kick my butt!
  14. Wayne, I haven't seen a black light since I went to the Cheeta Club, next door to Pacific Ocean Park, back in the late '60s. Hahaha I believe what the manuf. says, and it does seem to "glow" in the water.
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