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mark poulson

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Everything posted by mark poulson

  1. Heat stabilizer will help you to be able to reheat without scorching, and a digital thermometer will help you insure that you don't overheat your plastic. Take it's temp after you've stirred it, because the middle will always be hotter when you heat in a microwave.
  2. If you're asking for an alternative clear coat for plastic crankbaits, I use Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear Acrylic most of the time. It's cheap, dries/cures overnight when I help it along with a hair dryer, and doesn't distort colors. I just have to make sure to not let the cranks lie in contact with soft plastics for more than a few minutes, or the finish will melt.
  3. Thanks. The Rapala is more muted, and that seems to be what the fish want in our now clear CA Delta water. I mixed up a really pale orange/transparent base and shot it over the finished lures, and it seems to have toned them down some. I'll find out Monday. There is a really good crank bite going on right now on the top of shallow grass flats.
  4. I asked because the lead on my weighted swimbait hooks oxidizes and turns a chalky white when I pour it into a swimbait.
  5. I just posted two versions of my second attempt at matching the Rapala Pumpkinseed in the Hard Baits Gallery. All Createx paints. Details are with the photos.
  6. mark poulson

    pumpkinseeds.jpg

    My attempt at matching a Rapala pumpkinseed, which is in the middle. Two different versions. The 1.5 has a turquoise side, with a dark blue black back and accents, and the 2.5 has the dark blue black sides and back, with turquoise accents. Both have a gold/transparent orange belly. Top coat is Rustoleum X2 Gloss Acrylic, with a final coat of pastel fixative to dull down the gloss. Gill details are sharpies and paint dotted with a tooth pick.
  7. mark poulson

    pumpkinseeds2.jpg

    My attempt at matching a Rapala pumpkinseed, which is in the middle. Two different versions. The 1.5 has a turquoise side, with a dark blue black back and accents, and the 2.5 has the dark blue black sides and back, with turquoise accents. Both have a gold/transparent orange belly. Top coat is Rustoleum X2 Gloss Acrylic, with a final coat of pastel fixative to dull down the gloss. Gill details are sharpies and paint dotted with a tooth pick.
  8. Nice job! Do you prime/paint your lead before you put it into your mold?
  9. I've never tried it, so I can't say. I use lead wire, glued into drilled holes, for ballast.
  10. Won't the fish notice that you bent the wire by hand? :O)
  11. Can you use the Twistech to make R bend spinnerbait wire forms?
  12. This is the bait, painted and top coated. I'm playing around with a pumpkinseed color scheme.
  13. Check out the "Why PVC?" sticky at the top of the Hard Baits Forum. Yesterday, I carved, lipped, weighted, test swam, and primed a crankbait. Today I'll finish painting it, and tomorrow I hope to take it for a swim in the CA Delta.
  14. Don't forget hand tools, like rasps, files, chisels, and sanding blocks. A sharp drywall knife is great for carving, emphasis on sharp. Sharp tools make work easier and safer, because you don't have to force the tool to get it to perform, so you are much more in control. Control equals safer.
  15. I just saw it, and sent you a reply. Sorry for being so slow.
  16. It looks like green pumpkin/black flake top, and chartreuse/black flake bottom to me.
  17. See if you can get a free sample, or can buy a very small amount, so you can do a test, before you sink $80 for a gallon. You might also contact the manuf. and ask their tech people if it would be suitable for fishing lures.
  18. Dude, I am handy with wood. I would wind up going down a deep, dark rabbit hole if I started working with metal. Hahaha
  19. Many years ago, Barlow's sold a 1 1/2" tall chatterbait blade. Then they got a cease and desist letter from Chatterbait, because the blade and connection were patented. They did allow Barlow's to sell their remaining stock, which was really decent of them. I bought ten blades, and I've used them all, so I'm looking for more, strictly for my personal use. Anyone have a source for a 1 1/2" tall blade?
  20. In my limited experience, finding a hook that will match what you have is better than trying to use some kind of a wire with an open eye. The ones I tried never were strong enough. At APDriver's suggestion, I found a Mustad jig hook that works in my Do-It Arky mold, and I can open the eye with an awl to get the blade attached. Then a small pair of channel locks squeezes it closed again, and it never opens on a fish.
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