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mark poulson

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Everything posted by mark poulson

  1. Those are great looking lures! The paint jobs do pop when you epoxy them, and they have great swimming action. Good luck. I know it's impossible, but I hope you get tired of catching fish with them!
  2. Dave, could you measure the weight per volume of the filler material by adding it to a more viscous liquid in a graduated beaker. A before and after weight should tell you the weight of the filler added, and the change in the level of the test liquid should tell you the volume of the filler after the air around it is removed. I think you could do it with a small amount of one of the resin's components. But, then again, what do I know. Hahaha
  3. I have some old Bears hardener that is at least ten years old. It is really thick, like cold honey. I find that I have to mix it in uncooked plastic until it's totally dissolved before I begin the heating process, or I wind up with hard lumps.
  4. The pole dancer usually works for me.
  5. If I were just starting out, I'd buy the Eclipse HP-CS with the .5mm needle conversion. I have been airbrush painting lures for 15+ years. I began with a Badger syphon brush. It shoots all paints well, but it's a pain to change colors, since it involves changing paint bottles and flushing with a clean water bottle between colors. It is also no good to me for finer detail work. But it is what I used to use when I had a lot of lures to prime/base coat with Createx opaque white. I almost immediately bought an Iwata HP-C Plus gravity fed airbrush, with a .3mm needle, and have used it almost exclusively since then. Since I am no artist, I have struggled over the years with getting my paint thinned properly to shoot without clogging, and I always faced painting sessions with dread. This year, I bought an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, with the .5mm needle conversion. What a difference! It is easy to shoot most paints with minimal thinning, can shoot details by adjusting the air pressure, and, because I put the pre set handle w/cut out from an older HP-/C plus airbrush on it ($29 from Coast Airbrush),the paint flow is easy to control. I now look forward to painting again.
  6. Maybe you could figure out the minimum order that you can ship and still make money, and have that as a minimum order for free shipping. I've seen that on other sites.
  7. Here is a picture of the original "mistake" on the right, and my copy on the left. I'm no photographer, but, then again, I'm no painter. Hahaha The mottling was finer on my copy, but I'm going to play around with the amounts of paint I add, and even some 4011, to see if I can get the larger effect.
  8. I was able to duplicate that paint effect. I took a crank that I'd already painted and topcoated, and sprayed it with a mixture of my water/dishwashing liquid cleaner and opaque black Createx. I used an already top coated lure because I wanted the gloss finish so the black mixture wouldn't bond really well to the crank. I filled my airbrush cup half full of the cleaner, added three drops of the black, mixed it in the cup, and then sprayed it down the back of the crank from 18" away with light pressure. I held the painted crank still for a minute, and then hung it to air dry. Because the paint is so diluted, it has no film strength, so it's really fragile until it dries. I got the same paint effect. I thought about it last night, and I realized that it looked like the paint hadn't mixed with the thinning agent, but had clumped together like an emulsion. Liquid dish washing soap is an emulsifier, breaking up grease into tiny globules that can be washed away with hot water. I think I had added my original 4011 to my airbrush cup with some of the cleaning fluid still in it the first time it happened. Kind of a happy accident. Now that I know how to do it, I'll paint my cranks up to the mottled black back, shoot a coat of gloss clear over them, and then come back the next day and spray my water/soap/black paint mix over the back. Once that air dries, so my hair dryer doesn't move the black around, I'll shoot two more coats of clear over them, and I'll be done. And I'll try it with other paint schemes, too. I bet it would look good on the back and sides of a black and red craw. I'll take a picture tomorrow, once it's dried, and post it here.
  9. Thanks. Looks like you and I have the same memory issues. Hahaha I guess I'll just have to play around with the paints until I can get the effect again.
  10. From my own experience modifying aluminum molds, there is almost nothing you can do to one that can't be undone with either Devon Steel Putty or high temperature silicone. So just take it slow, and experiment.
  11. Did you shoot the green over the gold, or the gold over the green?
  12. You might try getting some hollow lead wire and making your own bodies.
  13. I have fished those craws on a homemade Jika rig, using the elongated Team Davies Ventana tear drop shaped weights, which don't seem to get hung up as much when I'm fishing rip rap.
  14. mark poulson

    Wobble event?

    Of course, up in Canada it's called a fall event, because the ice outside of bars is so slick. Hahaha
  15. JD, I use a really weak water/soap solution to clean my airbrush between coats. I'll have to check and see if that's the problem. Thanks.
  16. I think you're right about "over thinning", so the paint film is weak. I'd have to do some experimenting. My problem is I'm lazy, so I don't like to break out the airbrush just for testing. Hahaha
  17. Thanks. That makes sense, since teflon skillets get very hot.
  18. Three weeks ago I painted some 1.5 cranks with a light green pumpkin back and shoulders, and then shot a very reduced black over the back. The black kind of clumped up, and I really like the effect. Unfortunately, when I tried to repeat it, I couldn't. Does anyone here have any idea what made the black paint act that way?
  19. Will plastisol stick to teflon? I'm asking before I ruin something.
  20. I use a heat gun to even out the tops of my silicone open pour swimbaits, but I'm really careful not to overheat the mold. Hitting the plastic while it's still hot lets me get it back up to melting temp. pretty quickly. I would never try it with mold whose bait was cool or cold.
  21. If you added salt, that could be the cause.
  22. Would an ultrasonic cleaner work? Maybe you could put a batch in a small glass jar of something, run the cleaner for 8 minutes, and come away with clean pins. That is, if it works.
  23. I just posted two prop wake baits in the Hard Baits Gallery. The bluegill has already caught fish. I'm going to take the Ayu/golden shiner out for a swim this week. Fingers crossed!
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