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gunnie3035

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Everything posted by gunnie3035

  1. You don't necessarily need to cut a slot in the bait to attach. Two hook hangers and two split rings can be used as well with lexan. It really depends on what action your looking for. Also depends on what sort of hinge and whether it is a top water on subsurface bait. From my experience it's hard to get and even finish using D2T on a hard flat surface with sharp corners. You mention pliable tail and to me this means a little flexibility in the tail. Pinned lexan tails have no flex and act like a rudder and the bait will have more of a mechanical action/sound. Using the hanger with split rings will obviously allow movement, but might give it more of a snake type action depending on the hinge set up. Shape of the tail will make a difference too. I have dipped lexan in DN and it didn't work out. From my experience oil based paints worked better for me or using a spray on auto clear over WB paint. I used a little Dremel buffer wheel before painting. Sandpaper left too many scratches for my liking.
  2. I'm doing some early spring cleaning and need to get rid of some stuff. I thought I would give some fellow tackle makers first crack before listing on eBay. Items will be shipped USPS Priority. I first had these listed as individual lots sold seperately, but I should have known better being a tackle junkie myself. The entire lot shipped in one big box $300. Please email me at rhurst@santaquin.org with any questions. You wont find these items any cheaper... First up is 3 Do-It jig mold; Arky, Sparkie, and a Football jig mold. You should be able to get the model numbers off the pictures for hook information. Second Lot is a boat load of Mustad 91768 BLN hooks in the following sizes/numbers: 3/0 42 hooks, 4/0 40 hooks, 5/0 85 hooks, 6/0 115 hooks (total 282). Third Lot is NIB Mustad Big Mouth Tube Hooks in the following sizes/numbers: 6/0 11pk or 55 hooks, 8/0 8pk or 32 hooks. Fourth Lot is 30 practice lures or at least I call them practice lures. There is a couple H2o baits, a couple Bombers, etc. You guys know what brand they are by looking at them. Some have been primed and some havent. Fifth Lot is VMC Barbarian treble hooks in the following numbers/sizes: 203 #4 and 236 #6, 439 total hooks. Sixth Lot is lure eyes; every size, color, cat eyes, etc. etc. I didnt count them, but I would guess there is over a 1000. One quart (32oz) of Createx WB paint in opaque blue. It has been unsealed, but not used. 34 more lures...
  3. U-Pol #1 Clear works well for heat set blades and won't mess with your WB paint. However it isn't as good as dipping in DN.
  4. gunnie3035

    Reble Topwater

    Been a while...
  5. Run some bondo over them and sand to a smooth finish. It works fine.
  6. You can coat a scratched up lip with Etex and then immediately wipe off with a clean cloth. This will fill in the scratches and not give the ugly epoxy look.
  7. I did it cause I'm cheap and because I wanted to make money. The cheap part came in because I didn't want to spend anymore money losing $12 soft swimbaits. And pre-2008 all the guys who were making money were hardbait painters. A run of the mill paint job would go for $30 and a real good one on a proven bait would go upwards of $50. It was fun while it lasted. When I first started painting there were only a handful of good trigger men and only a couple of exceptional ones. TU kicked out some real good painters over the last 5-6 years. Now days your photography skills better be as good as your paint. Sort of got old paying all the profit to Paypal & eBay. Every time I turned around there was a fee for this and a fee for that. It sort of fee'd me right out of the game. If someone calls or I need a few to replenish my own stash then I paint.
  8. I think what causes it is the amount of finger pressure applied by the operator. I tend to really clamp down the trigger when painting and flushing. Eventually the abuse wears the brass bushing in the stem. However this is just a theory on why I go through a brush or two per year and other can use the same one for years.
  9. It is the brass plunger thingy. I have no idea what it is called, the valve stem maybe? The plunger is brass and so are the rings-bushings it slides in and out of or rather up and down. After a while they get worn and it begins to hang up and eventually won't spring back like it should. You start to get what I call hang fires where the airflow doesn't shut off and/or won't let air flow through the brush. Basically what I'm saying is the trigger doesn't compresses the valve stem because the valve stem isn't springing back into place like it should. At times it can even get stuck open (stuck in the downward position). It is a complete untit and can only be fixed by replacing the part. I've had this happen on every Iwata brush I have ever owned after a year of hard use. The part is like $55 shipped. I generally toss the brush and buy a new one. However since this is a higher end brush replacing the part is practical.
  10. What Skeeter said!! I paint 6-7 patterns and I paint them well. If you don't like the price or the wait then go to somebody else. You want the Sitka Gear customer not the Walmart super saver shopper.
  11. If you plan to use them as surface baits, you don't need any ballast on Slammers. The large hooks, eyes, and rings will take care of it.
  12. Have you tried a silver pearl underneath the shimmer color? The silver will give it a slightly different look than a white pearl.
  13. Here is something to think about and is sort of related to the ease of spraying. When you get some serious hours on a brush the plating begins to wear off. When the plating wears off the paint will stick to the parts, ie needle and whatever the part is called the needle goes through (tunnel), not the nozzle. Anyway this happens faster with the more harsh cleaners like acetone. As the brush ages the more clogs it will have. Thinning, replacing the needle, and using retarder will help but eventually ya need to toss it and get a new gun. Now the cheaper the brush the faster this corrosion will happen. THere is a reason they are cheaper, but regardless it will happen to the best brushes after so many hours. I've owned and used Masters and they will work just don't expect to get the same performance. I will go through an Iwata per season and I only paint hard for about 3 months a year.
  14. What gary said and the older the bottle is the more sludge it will grow. Cut it from time to time with 4011
  15. gunnie3035

    Trout Trio

    Those are just freaking cool dude!!
  16. This has been covered a lot over the years, but the hard non-stretchy stuff is tough to use. The secret to doing scales is getting it very tight from nose to tail. In my opinion this is not possible w/o using the Popsicle sticks method and 4-5 alligator clamps per bait. I think I've tried everything at one time or another and the shower luffa still works best for me. Keep in mind each brand of luffa will vary in size so buy a couple different brands until you find the size your after. I only use a piece one time and it gets tossed. Your scales are filling in because your netting isn't tight enough or the air pressure is up too high causing paint to blow under the netting. Also spray scales from one direction only. Avoid spraying scales straight on or from both sides with the same color. For example if your spraying gold scales over a black base spraying from nose to tail don't flip the bait and spray from tail to nose. If ya need a little more paint on the tail switch to copper or silver and lightly dust it. This will give you the raised scale look. Hope this makes sense...
  17. gunnie3035

    bullshad

    Sucks to paint, but they sure look purty when they are done...
  18. What do you consider "too cold"?? Don't you live in southern Cal...lol
  19. Give me a break! When is the last time you looked at your: rods, reels, line, hooks, sinkers, electronics, tv set, ipod/ipad/cell phone, none of that sh*t is made in America. So get off this 'buy in America" crap. It is almost as bad as the Obama "save the children speech". People cry about $25 lures from Japan. How much do you think they would cost if they were made in Detroit?? And they still wouldnt be as good as the Japanese baits.....LOL
  20. nope, Mike Shaw Slammers : wood swimbait
  21. The ms slammer is used often for lakers...
  22. You can find name brands for cheap, as Ben suggested. It takes time but if you search out a lucky craft dealer or pradco dealer often times you can get them a little above cost in bulk. The biggest secret is you MUST buy during the off season. Don't expect many deals Dec-April. If ya think about it I wouldn't exactly call a rebel weeR or a Norman a quality tool. I'm sure the copy cats are every bit as good.
  23. What he said..... If your going to paint trout ya can't get'r done w/o some taxidermy paint; trout greens, gill red, trans violet, & pathlo blue. Those colors are a must have but any other createx color will do for the rest. Just because it looks like a pink gill cover or a green back doesnt mean it isn't 2 or 3 different shades. Ya need a white pearl belly, silver pearl from the middle down, and gold from the lat line up and across the back. For instance I would use the negative part of the stencil you cut to paint the outline of the gill cover. Put it in place and paint the gill pink shooting it towards the eye so you get a hard line around the stencil but a natural spray over towards the eye. Then come back and hit it again with gill red. This will give you the right fade and the hard line should give a raised effect. Use gill red for the lateral stripe. Use the trans violet and paint a line above the red, then blue below the red line. Light trout green on the shoulders and med trout green on the back. Ya got to have gold under the green, silver under the blue, gold under the gill cover, and 50/50 gold/silver under the red lateral line. Of course nothing is complete w/o some shimmer gold and green to finish it off. Its all about the fade my friend. This is just my opinion and what works for me......
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