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gunnie3035

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Posts posted by gunnie3035


  1. You don't necessarily need to cut a slot in the bait to attach. Two hook hangers and two split rings can be used as well with lexan. It really depends on what action your looking for. Also depends on what sort of hinge and whether it is a top water on subsurface bait. From my experience it's hard to get and even finish using D2T on a hard flat surface with sharp corners. You mention pliable tail and to me this means a little flexibility in the tail. Pinned lexan tails have no flex and act like a rudder and the bait will have more of a mechanical action/sound. Using the hanger with split rings will obviously allow movement, but might give it more of a snake type action depending on the hinge set up. Shape of the tail will make a difference too. I have dipped lexan in DN and it didn't work out. From my experience oil based paints worked better for me or using a spray on auto clear over WB paint. I used a little Dremel buffer wheel before painting. Sandpaper left too many scratches for my liking.


  2. I did it cause I'm cheap and because I wanted to make money.  The cheap part came in because I didn't want to spend anymore money losing $12 soft swimbaits.  And pre-2008 all the guys who were making money were hardbait painters.  A run of the mill paint job would go for $30 and a real good one on a proven bait would go upwards of $50.  It was fun while it lasted.  When I first started painting there were only a handful of good trigger men and only a couple of exceptional ones.  TU kicked out some real good painters over the last 5-6 years.  Now days your photography skills better be as good as your paint. Sort of got old paying all the profit to Paypal & eBay.  Every time I turned around there was a fee for this and a fee for that.  It sort of fee'd me right out of the game.  If someone calls or I need a few to replenish my own stash then I paint.      


  3. I think what causes it is the amount of finger pressure applied by the operator. I tend to really clamp down the trigger when painting and flushing. Eventually the abuse wears the brass bushing in the stem. However this is just a theory on why I go through a brush or two per year and other can use the same one for years.


  4. It is the brass plunger thingy. I have no idea what it is called, the valve stem maybe? The plunger is brass and so are the rings-bushings it slides in and out of or rather up and down. After a while they get worn and it begins to hang up and eventually won't spring back like it should. You start to get what I call hang fires where the airflow doesn't shut off and/or won't let air flow through the brush. Basically what I'm saying is the trigger doesn't compresses the valve stem because the valve stem isn't springing back into place like it should. At times it can even get stuck open (stuck in the downward position).

    It is a complete untit and can only be fixed by replacing the part. I've had this happen on every Iwata brush I have ever owned after a year of hard use. The part is like $55 shipped. I generally toss the brush and buy a new one. However since this is a higher end brush replacing the part is practical.


  5. Here is something to think about and is sort of related to the ease of spraying. When you get some serious hours on a brush the plating begins to wear off. When the plating wears off the paint will stick to the parts, ie needle and whatever the part is called the needle goes through (tunnel), not the nozzle. Anyway this happens faster with the more harsh cleaners like acetone. As the brush ages the more clogs it will have. Thinning, replacing the needle, and using retarder will help but eventually ya need to toss it and get a new gun. Now the cheaper the brush the faster this corrosion will happen. THere is a reason they are cheaper, but regardless it will happen to the best brushes after so many hours. I've owned and used Masters and they will work just don't expect to get the same performance. I will go through an Iwata per season and I only paint hard for about 3 months a year.


  6. This has been covered a lot over the years, but the hard non-stretchy stuff is tough to use. The secret to doing scales is getting it very tight from nose to tail. In my opinion this is not possible w/o using the Popsicle sticks method and 4-5 alligator clamps per bait. I think I've tried everything at one time or another and the shower luffa still works best for me. Keep in mind each brand of luffa will vary in size so buy a couple different brands until you find the size your after. I only use a piece one time and it gets tossed.

    Your scales are filling in because your netting isn't tight enough or the air pressure is up too high causing paint to blow under the netting. Also spray scales from one direction only. Avoid spraying scales straight on or from both sides with the same color. For example if your spraying gold scales over a black base spraying from nose to tail don't flip the bait and spray from tail to nose. If ya need a little more paint on the tail switch to copper or silver and lightly dust it. This will give you the raised scale look. Hope this makes sense...


  7. Give me a break! When is the last time you looked at your: rods, reels, line, hooks, sinkers, electronics, tv set, ipod/ipad/cell phone, none of that sh*t is made in America. So get off this 'buy in America" crap. It is almost as bad as the Obama "save the children speech". People cry about $25 lures from Japan. How much do you think they would cost if they were made in Detroit?? And they still wouldnt be as good as the Japanese baits.....LOL


  8. You can find name brands for cheap, as Ben suggested. It takes time but if you search out a lucky craft dealer or pradco dealer often times you can get them a little above cost in bulk. The biggest secret is you MUST buy during the off season. Don't expect many deals Dec-April.

    If ya think about it I wouldn't exactly call a rebel weeR or a Norman a quality tool. I'm sure the copy cats are every bit as good.


  9. Trout patterns can be very intricate and complex in their formula. Guys who do them well usually dont give up their basics to getting the effects.

    A good starting place for better understanding would be to check out some of the taxidermist supply places for paints and even some vids on their paint techniques, makes great reference and lays good groundwork to mastering your own signature trout painting style.

    A clue to the masters of near taxidermy quality trout paint work would be attention to detail in blending and shading of the base coats, and use of very transparent paints for shading and detail work. Heavy handed effects and thick opaque paints muddy the beauty of a good trout pattern.

    What he said..... If your going to paint trout ya can't get'r done w/o some taxidermy paint; trout greens, gill red, trans violet, & pathlo blue. Those colors are a must have but any other createx color will do for the rest. Just because it looks like a pink gill cover or a green back doesnt mean it isn't 2 or 3 different shades. Ya need a white pearl belly, silver pearl from the middle down, and gold from the lat line up and across the back. For instance I would use the negative part of the stencil you cut to paint the outline of the gill cover. Put it in place and paint the gill pink shooting it towards the eye so you get a hard line around the stencil but a natural spray over towards the eye. Then come back and hit it again with gill red. This will give you the right fade and the hard line should give a raised effect. Use gill red for the lateral stripe. Use the trans violet and paint a line above the red, then blue below the red line. Light trout green on the shoulders and med trout green on the back. Ya got to have gold under the green, silver under the blue, gold under the gill cover, and 50/50 gold/silver under the red lateral line. Of course nothing is complete w/o some shimmer gold and green to finish it off. Its all about the fade my friend. This is just my opinion and what works for me......


  10. White specifically is a little thicker as stated. What I generally do is have one bottle of white (not thinned) for things that need quick coverage and another bottle that is cut with 4011 and a drop or three of retarder. Or buy a bottle of auto air white and a bottle of regular createx would be about the same thing.

    You will notice when your bottle get down to the last third the paint doesn't flow as good anymore. Adding a little 4011 will get it flowing good as new...


  11. Paint is paint for the most part, but some do spray better than others. For instance auto air or wicked will spray better out of the bottle than regular createx. I personally like black auto air but prefer white createx over the auto air white. Createx gold is harder to spray and control than auto air gold but has better coverage. And auto air gold will go bad on you if ya don't shake the bottle on a regular basis. The brown wicked colors can't be matched for things like craw baits. So ya can't just limit yourself to one or two series of paints. Pick the colors you think you will use the most (regardless of brand) and go from there...

    PS Waco gill red or deep red createx for gills.


  12. What Ben said; get rid of the rattle can paint. Dip your baits to cut the time in base coating rather than using a rattle can otherwise mixing the two will cause you nothing but problems. Even with an epoxy top coat I suspect once the hook rash gets deep enough the baits will peel like an orange.


  13. A little trick I stumbled on a while back in dealing with those scratched up lips you get on the Jan's baits is to brush on some etex and then wipe it off with a clean rag. The etex will fill in the scratches but by wiping it off it won't look like epoxy. In this case you could probably sand the glue off and do the above and it will look good as new.

    2-ton can be used as a clear coat when you have cracked the paint on a bait with DN or some other solvent clear coat. Give it a try on the next "gosh darn-it" bait. Sometime you can't even tell the paint was ever cracked,,

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