gunnie3035
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Posts posted by gunnie3035
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Thanks guys, once again some good usefull information. I was running around 20 or 25 PSI with my compressor. What are you using Rayburn? I plan on spending a few hours playing with my gun tomorrow. I think that by the end of this trial day I should have a little better feel for the Iwata's I have. Thanks again.
Rich
I run acetone [.99 cents at the dollar store] through my brush anytime I have spray problems. You still have to pull the needle out and clean it at the end of each day. I generally spray createx right out of the bottle with a 3mm tip. At 20-25 psi I can spray the transparent paints and black, but any of the opie colors will clog. I either thin them or spray at a higher psi.
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I've been using white electrical tape for masking lips on crankbaits and have been hankering for a quicker, neater, cleaner way of doing it. The tape is ok for coverage but the adhesive can be slightly reactive to solvent based paints and it's kinda time consuming wrapping and unwrapping the lips. I've considered making re-usable lip condoms using rtv or something similar but suspect you fella's have a few better ideas.
I used the blue painters tape for a long time, but I didn't like how the paint/clear would sometimes seep under the tape. I started using the green painters tape, don't remember the name, the one the advertise on tv all the time, it works better for me.
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What type [shape/size/weight] is sort of the standard flutter spoon for bass fishing? Just too many spoons and I don't know which one to pick. If you know where I can buy some blank spoons for painting I would appreciate it.
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You are perfectly right Gunnie. It seems to me that these lures have not met a clear coat yet.
I "heard" WD-40 works pretty good.........
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I use [dip] white Badger paint as a primer coat on my baits. But when I dipped my foamies with the Badger paint everyone of them reacted with DN [peeled] and some even reacted with Devcon after they got wet. I could heat set them until the paint practically boiled. I went back to straight white createx as a primer and it cured the problem. If I had to guess I would say the original paint or clear coat is the problem. But is the DN lifting the original paint as well??
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If I could paint as good as Blade I would let them go w/o a clear coat.
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This unpainted RC 2.5 KO is not the Square Bill sold at Predator Bass Baits. I've seen several pictures of this one and it has NO plug in the bottom.
Here is a pic of the bottom of this bait. As you can see there is no plug.
Bustinbassbaits is the only one who has them.
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I do like the Hi-line it is a fine brush. But it does require thinning the paint. I'm usually in a hurry and a tad bit lazy so I generally paint everything with a HP-C brush where I can dump paint straight out of the bottle. I think most guys end up doing this once they get their trigger finger trained. I only wish they made an HP-C with the Mac valve. But the Hi-Line is a great tool and work very good for small details.
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How about "Chronic Gill" when I painted over the top half of the eyes the bait looked like it had been smoking some good weed. There was another one I called "tweeker" because all it would do is spin circles. I never could get it to run right.
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a friend told me that they are shut down. went bankrupt. anyone here this. dave
They did discontinue a lot of their hardbaits and BMF hooks. The Vixen and Barely Legal were probably the number one selling spook type bait out west for the last five years. I don't think they actually owned these designs and the contract expired or something like that. I noticed Paycheck Baits is now making the Vixen under a different name. I think RI got into a pissin match with some of the companies who knocked off the Beaver. Now RI won't sell to them. I may have the details a little mixed up but I think it was something to that effect.......
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Hey Rookie, I see Glisten PC is a 2 part clear. I believe you about the performance but am wondering if it is like auto clears that have a pot life of only a few hours after mixing and are also toxic, requiring vapor protection against isocyanates in the product?
I bought a small can of Glisten PC some time back. I only appled them to a couple of lures. It is as advertised on self leveling when brushed on. The bait doesn't need to be turned either and it goes on really thin. If I remember right you apply one coat wait 45 min and apply another coat. On the first lure I applied the two coats per the instructions. It seemed to work pretty decent, but the clear coat was very thin. On the second lure I applied 4-5 coats [30 min between]. About a week later each coat flaked off down to the original coat. I never used it again. I didn't feel one coat would provide enough protection. Perhaps I did it wrong but that was my experience......
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Help! Last year i learned how to make molds and pour hard plastic baits. I have used Devcon 2 ton for 30 years and have never had a finish problem until recently. The finish on so many recently made baits has blistered and after cutting into one lure it appears as though the paint may be blistering as well. In the spring of this year I finally purchased an air brush and now use Createx Water based air brush paint. When I pour a bait I spray the mold with mold release,pour the bait with micro balloons for floating or suspending lures, usually have to sand the lure, spray with a few coats of spray enamel, paint and then brush on Devcon 2 ton. This site has been a great help and while i have a long way to go with regards to using the air brush there is no comparision between the baits that were rattle can painted vs the air brush. At this point I feel that the problem is either with the paint, the spray enamel or could possibly be that it had never occured to me that maybe I should clean the lure to after demolding in order to get rid of any mold release. Any advise would be greatley appreciated as it is very frustrating to see som many lures with blisters. thanks
It might be the WB paint but it isn't any of the other items you mentioned. I had the same problem with 2-ton on resin baits and I applied the paint directly to the bait w/o any of the other items you mentioned. And get this the baits would look perfect for months until they got wet or I shipped them to a real humid part of the country. I would heat set them until the paint nearly bubbled and I still had the same problem. I personally think it is something in the resin or ballons that cause it. Maybe the micro holes in the bait itself let water in, who knows??? I started dipping my resin baits in Dick Nite and I've never had a problem since. I love 2-ton but I will not use it on my resin baits.
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Gentlemen,
This is getting to be fun but I have so much to learn. Fun, yes, but easily frustrating....LOL. I have found plenty of material to use for scale patterning and have the technique down for putting it in place. My question is: What is the proper painting technique? Do you put the darker color on first with no material and then put your material in place and then shoot the lighter color.
I'm basically starting with a white pearl side and trying to fade darker up into the back but I just can't seem to get the scale patterning to look right. Would anyone like to enlighten me on the proper technique please. Thanks in advance!...........D
The short answer to your question is yes. "fades" are usually a combination of two or more colors although it may look much simpler to the naked eye. Prime your bait all white then hit the belly & sides with the white pearl. Now take black and paint down the side of the bait about half as far as you want the fade to start. Paint it fairly dark. The overspray will naturally fade down the side of the bait. You can paint the back too if you wish. Put the scale material down and dust the sides with plain white to your taste. Then dust again with white pearl to your liking. Take your time you don't want to spray the white/pearl on to fast/thick. The coverage of the white over black will naturally fade getting darker towards the top on the bait. You should get defined scales with a natural fade.
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Find the bait you want, heat it up a little with a hair dryer, and split with a razor knife. You might need to clean up the edges but they will come apart fairly easy. I've split more than one heat setting paint.
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Jan Thru April is the primary season. You get a mini run during the fall months. The summer is completely dead. Compared to a couple years ago it all stinks. But the good painters still move product.
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Been wanting to learn how to paint this scale pattern and figured it was done with a loofah. So I ran out a bought one at Wal-Mart.
I think I might have bought a cheap one because it easily breaks and trying to wrap a lure with it is beyond maddening !!
I usually use cloths pins to hold my scale mesh...no way with the loofah.
Any help or tips would be appreciated.
A Lufa will work for that scale pattern, but you need to use the popcicle stick method to hold the material.
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Just use plain old tap water or buy a jug of windex from the dollar store. Cut and spray its just paint and there is no wrong way to do it.
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I say buy them both and try to get a price break. You can never have just one!!
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Thanks for the advise. The only power tool I use is a dremel tool and a hand drill. I like the idea of the box fan and a filter. I can see how that can reduce the dust, however I am not sure if that would solve the problem if we moved into a single bedroom (which my living room would double as a lure crafting room). I have found that using sandpaper is the best tool for forming the bait and dust seems to get everywhere.
I see your point about painting plastic baits, but I see a lot of possibilities for pre made wooden baits, adding paint, fins, even joints. I would loose the art of shaping the bait, true. i have thought of making a "sanding box". Some type of shell I could shape inside, I was originaly thinking of using a vaccume to draw the dust away, but vaccumes are noisy. The box fan with a filter as a wall on the enclosure may be a quieter alternative.
There is a guy/company on Ebay who sells wooden bodies with the lips/hangers attached. I think they might even be primed as well. I've never tried them, but it might be work a look.
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Specialty Tackle made the Junior D which is my favorite crank of all time. Too bad they discontinued them. :/
I love the Junior D as well. I'm not sure about the relationship between the two companies, but Zipbaits made the Junior D or vise-versa. The B-switcher and Switcher-mini are hard to locate in the states. The B-Switcher will run 15ft on 10lb flourocarbon. They are costly little fellers.......
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+ 1 on what Mark and Bob said. I have a trigger control adjustment [if that is what you call it] for the Iwata HP series. I don't use it anymore. If you want it PM me and we can work out the details.
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I don't know if this is the best method, but I use rubber bands to hold the joints.
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Fins
in Hard Baits
This pic shows some decent airbrush detail on fin & gill marking for reference.. I did this a while back..
Jp~
There you have it. Isn't too many folks who can paint fins better than JP!!
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What is wrong with a $2.99 Mirco pen?? Sign it, hit it with the hair dryer, and your done.
Iwata Air Brush Issue
in Hard Baits
Posted
If your getting air bubbles in the bowl, I still think it would be a clog or at least a restriction or sorts. Run some paint through it and see what happens. Sometimes cleaner like windex will bubble even when it sprays paint just fine.
On the Etex issue; no matter how careful you are sometimes a contaminate gets on the bait and the Etex won't cover it. Other times I think we don't quite get the Etex mixed up enough and the spot is created by the non-mixed part. It even happens with Devcon, but not to the same extent as Etex. If the airbrushes are brand new it may have been some oil or maybe something from the compressor if your not using a filter. No worries it happens from time to time....