gunnie3035
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Posts posted by gunnie3035
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do u know who the companies in tailand are? or how do i go about ordering thru a company like that? i know of alibaba, but are there other sites that sell the eyes? just having trouble finding the type of eyes im looking for... and not wanting the predator baits eyes.
Ordering from overseas will require 10-15K minimum order. It might help if you specifically name the lure eye your searching for. Not really sure why, but eye sources are protected information by a lot of guys. The Boss lure eyes are a good quality product similar to taxidermy eyes. They do cost 3-4 times more than regular eyes. They don't offer a lot of different colors, but they super cool. The only two places I have ever seen them is Tackle Warehouse and fishingskirts.com
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maybe this will help
Your right, the 2-ton is not going to fill in the holes and the 2-ton bubbled because your paint wasn't completely dry or 2-ton wasn't fully curred when it got wet [maybe from improper mixing?]. You have some options, either use some sort of bondo filler and fill in the holes or switch clear coats and dip each section individually. I suppose you could always spray DN too. Etex will even be a bigger problem if the holes arent filled in. I love 2-ton, but on resin baits its DN all the way.
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I've had the same problem and I think it is heat setting the paint. On resin/wood baits I will heat so long the paint will nearly bubble and don't have any issues dipping DN. But on plastic baits, especially the cheaper made baits I cant heat set them as much or it will split the bait and half of them end up with some cracking or wrinkle. For some reason it seems to happen more on the belly of the lure rather than the back?? If I'm using DN on plastic baits I just spray it on, but you don't get the same glossy finish. I don't know what the answer is maybe someone else has figured out a solution..
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I'm not real familar with auto air, but I havent seen a good transparent olive green in regular createx. I've mixed green and black to get the olive color, but it wasn't transparent. The gold marker pens are used for carvings or taxidermy where scales are present. They are difficult to work with and my opinion aren't worth the $4. Your going to need to create your own scales with gold over black and use transparent green to get the look your after.
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I dont spray a lot of clear coat, but this is what I do for DN. I cut it by mixing in 1/3 acetone to the mixture. I use a $12 Harbor Freight brush to spray it. Once I'm done I change bottles and flush with 100% acetone. Haven't had it clog up yet, but as I said I don't spray a lot of DN either.
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Make sure you order some retarder with your Wasco paint. It drys really really quick on the needle. I would buy all three greens; light/med/dark bass green, sailfish blue, transparent Violet, Chocolate Brown, and Gill Red. You can use Createx for everything else. Get the 4oz bottles not the 2oz jars. The 4oz bottles have a flip-up lid. The 2oz jars are just a pain to deal with.
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Here is another example using the same steps as above with exception of using transparent violet in place of the transparent red.
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I keep getting a lot of questions on how I do the scales and colors on my baits. I swore when I was learning [like it ever ends] I wouldn't be one of those guys who took a little from everyone and when he figured it out wouldnt share with the folks who helped him. So here it is and I will try to give a step by step. If it doesn't make sense let me know and I will try to explain it better.
Here is the bait I will use as an example. I basically do the same thing on every bait. You can see a bigger picture in the gallery.
I can't get the eyes out on these little Black Dog baits so I cover them with tape and cut the top part of the tape off to make it look like eyelids. After priming I paint the back and shoulder area with black. Just below the black I spray a med blue the entire length following the black I layed down. Then I follow the med blue with a transparent sky blue bringing it down on the cheeks a little. I followed the sky blue with transparent red but I stopped at the gill plate. I faded a thin line of flouro transparent pink just under the red. It looks pretty funky at this point.
Now scale off the bait. I use a .99 cent lufa [or however you spell it] from the dollar store. You really need something that will stretch to the contours of the bait. I use RayburnGuy's popcicle stick method. In my opinion its the best method. Make sure you get it tight on every part of the bait. It can be a real challenge on jointed baits.
Now take plain old gold and cover everything you just painted with exception of the lower gill plate [see pic]. I freehand the stripes, I think you get a more natural looking blend. I use Wasco light bass green to start the stripes it will take several coats dont get impatient or hurry. Once I get a good stripe pattern going on both sides I will follow it up with med bass green. Gill stripes are never straight or uniform so don't sweat it if you get off line. The stripes are darker in the middle and get lighter toward the outside edge. Use short little bursts of paint to paint the med bass green. You don't want a straight uniform line.
After the stripes are painted I will shoot stripes again with a little Wasco shimmering green. Then paint the back and shoulders with light bass green sort of fading it over all the gold paint. I will hit the back and very top 1/4 of the bait with med bass green darkening it up. At this point you can pull the scale material off. If ya did it right you should see all your colors through the scales. After removing the netting I paint a thin line right down the back with a dark bass green. I may shade the face area a little too.
I'm sure you guys can figure out the rest of the paint job on your own.
In MY opinion the most important things in getting these color shifts and scales to jump out is using Wasco transparent paints over some color of pearl. You can get it somewhat with Createx transparents, but not like you can get with Wasco.
If ya want you can flip the bait over and do the same thing for painting the breast. The scales lines will naturally blend in if ya don't get to crazy.
I hope someone can get some use out of this info. If you have any questions post'em up and i will try to help out........
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Where do you fellers get you black nickle split rings from?? I've looked at the traditional places, but I didn't see them offered.
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Ok, playing with the weights has made a differance but still cant get that great action I was hoping for. I think it does boil down to the resin and just cant match the density/bouyancy of wood. I would love to hear others thoughts too.
Dont know what kind of mold your using, but how about this idea; pour the bottom1/4 of the bait with a 75% resin 25% Mb mix. Then pour the other 3/4 of the bait with the normal 50/50 resin/Mb mixture. This would even out the ballast over the length and I would think it should swim great.
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OK, I am trying to paint vibrating lures. I have spray painted vinyl then dipped or brushed. Then primed with Fusion the dipped/brushed. Then sprayed with model paint then sealed with glow paints. Holy S*it, I can not find stuff that works well together! Can someone gimme some hints as to how I should prime, paint and highlight/seal some vibrating lures (and spoons)????
Since you mentioned spoons, I assume your talking about vibration blade baits and not a plastic rattle trap. I would use Dick Nite's paint and clear coat if I was painting/diping metal baits.
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I made a copy of a discontined topwater spook type bait out of a 50/50 resin mix. I had to lighten up the hardware and use light wire hooks to reduce drag, but I didn't put any weight in it all and it swims great. Of course this is a 4.5" bait maybe that is the difference.
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Hi all,
Recently, I have seen some custom lure painters selling jerkbaits that look exactly like Megabass Ito 110 jerkbaits even though they are not. I am trying to find out where I can purchase these Ito 110 replica bodies. I have checked the forum here and went to many of the websites that sell knockoffs and unpainted lure bodies but have not found anyone who sells the 110 blanks. Does anyone know where I can buy these?
Thanks for any help.
The guy sells on Ebay, he used to be a board sponsor here a while back. His Ebay store is "fishincomfort". They are a little pricey, but are heavier plastic and seem to be weighted better. In my opinion his replica blanks are the best.
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I agree the H2O baits are great & the hooks are good quality. However, if your going to repaint make sure you request "shadtruce" or the "ghost", most of the others have glitter in the topcoat and they dont paint up as nice.
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I dip baits in Dick Nite moisture cured polyurethane to topcoat them. Dip it, hang it up, done. Do a search on Dick Nite or DN to find out how to buy it, store it, and use it.
Bob, how do you keep the DN from forming a drip or building up at the end of the bait? I tried this and rear hook hanger had 1/16" of DN covering it.
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dont get any cheaper than .99 cent fingernail polish..... I personally like the vinyl jig paint in a rattle can.
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What Rayburn said and if your netting material is too stiff you might need to wash it by hand with soap and water to soften it a bit.
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I have that brush too, take the nozzle cap off and you can paint blades of grass, its a fine piece of equipment!!
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If you sit down and add up the cost of supplies I'll bet your into the lure $4-$5.
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I never understood why people wanted to thin ether one of them?? I mean Etex is already thin enough and 2-ton can be thinned by heating it up with a hair dryer. Hotter you heat it the thinner it gets. I personally think your asking for a weaker clear coat if you cut it.
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This is how I paint my 'bows; pearl white after the primer, gill red stripe + gill plates, thin blue line under red line & along jaw line, a slight misting of brown around the eye and gill plate, violet above red line slightly blending the red/blue/violet lines together. Blend the head an gill plate with violet. Hit the whole bait with a shimmering gold mist [not the belly]. And you can paint the back whatever color you choose. On the baits below all I changed was the top color. Use dots of different sizes.
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Taking the cap off your airbrush exposing the needle will help you shoot thinner lines w/o as much splatter. Just becareful you don't forget and bend the needle. A lot of stripes appear to be one color but they are a combo of three or four different colors. I usually shoot pearl gold stripes, move the comb or stencil covering up the gold, shoot a light brown stripe, shoot the upper 2/3rd's of the stripe again with dark brown, then shoot the upper 1/3rd of the stripe again with black. The gold will really highlite the stripes. Cover your bait or stencil with mesh and it will break up the line a little. Throw on a couple dark spots here and there and its good to go.
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I've used some of the AA paints and they are a little better, but I don't think they are "alot" better. The helpful aspect to them is you're able to add reducer at different rates to find what works best for you. Also, AA has many different special effect paints that are fun to play around with. An alternative to consider....you can use AA reducers in createx to help with your clogging. If it's the pearl colors that are clogging in a fine tip (some pearl colors give me trouble in my .3mm tip), you may want to consider going to a .5mm tip. If you get into AA special effects paints, you'll need a .5mm tip anyway. If you try the AA, get the auto-borne line, it's supposed to be good stuff. I just got some and only tried it a little bit so far, but it seems to flow nice. Good luck.
I have some reducer but it is a milky white color. Perhaps I bought the wrong type, but it seems to fog up the transparent colors and change the normal colors slightly. I'm really after a WB paint with a finer pigment so it will shoot better w/o watering it down. I shoot thru both a 3mm and a 2.5 mm + I have a 5mm tip for pearls, but I mainly use the 3mm for just about everything unless it is a smaller bait. If I could get all colors to shoot like the normal createx black I would be happy. I read the AA colors have a finer pigment so I thought maybe they would shoot a little smoother w/o cutting them. I just wanted some opinions from actual users to see if it is worth the extra expense.
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When you say dip it in white paint what kind of paint do you mean I'ne been spraying them with white createx opaque and its quite a lengthy process to get all original colors covered
A buddy gave me a gallon of white Badger airbrush paint that I use for dipping. Smooth as glass w/o any cobwebs. I have some superhide white, but I've never tried dipping it. It would probably work.
Packaging
in Hard Baits
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If your selling a bunch of lures then I would buy them from the manufacturer by the case. They are half the cost. There is a plastics company on Ebay who sells a 100 different types of "PVC" boxes. I think they even sell tubes. The boxes fold up flat for shipping and are fairly cheap.