Jump to content

BanjoKat

TU Member
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About BanjoKat

  • Birthday 05/28/1975

BanjoKat's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

10

Reputation

  1. I have used the method Dean mentions. Using the craft store stencil material. I've wrapped it around a lure then heated it with quick passes of a torch. It formed to the shape of the lure. I trimmed the stencil after and left a bit where the plastic meets to attach a paper clip to hold the template in place. Worked pretty good.
  2. I keep looking at the Texas split ring pliers. I contacted the company too. They wanted me to ship them samples of what I'm working with. Hmm..... I did try the "don't paint the tips" method then after I put the split rings on I did some touch up with the paint. It stood out too much, obvious that I had done a touch up, for my taste. I even made my own split ring pliers out of a needle nose. It helped spread the ring pretty good, but then the gap that remained in the ring was just plain embarrassing. I think next I'd like to try some lighter gage rings like scoop10 mentioned. I just have to find some nickel rings... TuningGuru: That's an idea to ponder. I was thinking about doing something like that to make my own weedless spoons. The premade blanks from tackle supply stores are a bit spendy. Thanks for all the tips! The people here sure are helpful!
  3. O.K. I getting better at getting the split rings on. Four layers of tape is proving to be helpful. I've been looking for nickel split rings. I have found nickel plated steel and nickel plated brass. What do you suggest and do you have a source to suggest?
  4. I had tried the tape but the split ring sliding across the tape still transferred to the paint. The split rings would also gouge the paint through the tape when I slid the last part through. I also cut a small piece of plastic to cover the end of the spoon to try and protect it but it was really awkward and tedious. I didn't end up with good results either. How does that company with the red and white spoons do it.....
  5. Yep. I'm using stainless steel rings. I guess I can deal with the gap, I really can't handle the scratching of the paint though. Anyone have a trick to this or suggest a better split ring tool? Something? Anything?
  6. The pencil line while still on the lathe is a great tip. (I shoulda thunk of it). I could probably then mark the top of the lure, then measure down the line to mark the position for the eyes.
  7. Here's the deal. I'm trying to put split rings on my casting spoons and I keep scratching my cool paint job:mad:. The split ring tool that I am using is the Premium split ring pliers that Barlows sells: http://www.barlowstackle.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=6&Product_ID=2224&CATID=115. I'm thinking that maybe it isn't opening the ring enough, but when I get the ring on it doesn't close up tightly if you know what I mean. Is there a magic trick to this? I'm using a #5 heavy split ring on 2 7/8 casting spoon. Thanks!
  8. Hello, I turn several different shaped wooden lures with a lathe. When I try to drill the holes for the eye hooks in the nose, tail and the belly, as well as the holes to sink 3D eyes into, I have trouble getting everything to line up right. How do you guys do it? Thanks in advance for the tips!
×
×
  • Create New...
Top